throttle adjustment and cutoff switch 5.7 liter 260 with alpha 1 gen1 outdrive

[harrytrumanagain]

Finally "finished" replacing the Alpha 1 Gen 1 outdrive on 1983 sea ray with 5.7 liter 260 (including pulling engine and replacing bellows housing and inner transom plate). When engine started, it cut off in neutral so we adjusted throttle cable until it ran in neutral but now when shifting from forward to reverse, there is a terrible "clashing" sound. Did we over-adjust so that the cutoff switch does not allow the gears to mesh? the upper outdrive is a refurbished SEI with the correct gear ratio and we refilled the gear housing with oil (actually did that twice as you may have read in an earlier post when we had to remove the lower o add a spline shaft washer). Afraid to drive it - it sounds like the gears will fly apart!

 

[Scott Danforth]

did you replace the lower shift cable?

 

[alldodge]

If your hearing gears, something was not put back together correctly

Where was the spline shaft washer was the shift shaft washer

Bt Doctur stated in post 5 other thread
https://forums.iboats.com/forum/eng...oo-short-won-t-reach-shift-lever-in-new-upper

A GEN II type can never mate with an Alpha 1 so if the brass shoe in the drive does not mate with the U part in the housing then you forgot to install the SS washer on the lower splined shift shaft.
SE106= Alpha 1
SE116 =Alpha GEN II

So the question is, are you matting your alpha 1 with a sei 106 or 116?

 

[achris]

BTs statement that a Gen II can't be mated to a Gen I is not that it shouldn't be, it's that it's physically impossible. There's no point checking, it just can't happen.

 

[wellcraft-classic210]

HMMMM

You might want to see if its going into and out of gear with the engine off for a start // when in gear try to spin the prop the prop will ratchet in 1 direction and not spin in the other if that's working // forward & reverse are opposite for ratchet direction.

If it is going into gear and making some sort of noise -- more details are needed. Might need to do a tear down & see whats rubbing or not fully engaging.


If its not going into gear then its more likely in the cables linkage shift shafts etc

Let us know how it goes & we may have added input

 

[Bt Doctur]

When engine started, it cut off in neutral so we adjusted throttle cable until it ran in neutral but now when shifting from forward to reverse, there is a terrible "clashing" sound.

You dont adjust the throttle to keep a motor running, you adjust the idle stop screw

when shifting from forward to reverse, there is a terrible "clashing" sound. Did we over-adjust so that the cutoff switch does not allow the gears to mesh? the upper outdrive is a refurbished SEI with

The shift interupter only works coming OUT of gear, in the water with a load on the prop, no other time.

The drive goes into F or R with a "grinding sound for a split second" its the reason you must shift briskly

 

[harrytrumanagain]

If I put in neutral for a second and then in reverse, it sounds fine. It grinds when I go from forward to reverse in one motion, fairly slowly out of caution. Lower shift cable is good and adjusted. I carefully checked the upper for gear ratio and compatibility to the 5.7 liter (It is a 106, w/ gear ratio 1.47/1.50). After installing the SS washer, I checked the shift shaft foot and it engages the thingy (sorry) coming down from the new upper with about 1/8" of space.

 

[alldodge]

It grinds when I go from forward to reverse in one motion, fairly slowly out of caution.

Assuming your on the hard, you have to wait for the prop to stop spinning or it will grind by going from fwd to rev

 

[achris]

.... It grinds when I go from forward to reverse in one motion, fairly slowly out of caution....

Yep, it'll 'grind' every time. NEVER do that when the boat is out of the water. And on the water, only in an emergency... You're simulating shifting into gear with the engine running at over 1,500 rpm... Dog clutches were never designed to do that....And if you're running a SS prop, it's even worse (due to the mass of the prop)...

Please put the toys away until you have read your owner's handbook, so you know how to operate them properly.

Chris.........

 

[harrytrumanagain]

Great advice, thanks. I have operated the same Boston Whaler 90 hp since 1969. This inboard stuff is brand new to me. would love to read an operators manual but the boat came with itself and a key and nothing else for "free." Will hunt down the manual and read it for sure now that I am more than 2 grand into it. Everyone knows what BOAT stands for . . .

 

[Scott Danforth]

the prop and gear set on a 90hp weighs 1/4 that of an outdrive

you can get operators manuals for mercruisers right from their website with a serial number

 

[achris]

... would love to read an operators manual but the boat came with itself and a key and nothing else for "free." . . .

Merc have a download site, all the owner's handbooks are available, for free.

It's even listed in our stickies.

Chris....

 

[wahlejim]

I think it may be pertinent to note that an OPERATORS handbook and SERVICE manual are different items. Download the operators for free, pay for your correct service manual. Only buy the Mercruiser service manual. The others are not accurate and are often referred to as overpriced uncomfortable kneepads.