Mark42
Fleet Admiral
- Joined
- Oct 8, 2003
- Messages
- 9,334
Was working on the linkage of the 85 hp. There are two 3/32" roll pins that hold a lever to a rod that runs the timing and carbs. Both the roll pins sheared off and replacing them has been a real pain because they are below the lower cowl.
The pic below shows the arm with two finishing nails inserted where the two roll pins should be. To get to the point of driving out the pins without removing the power head or cowl, the shift and throttle cables were disconnected and completely removed from the motor. This gives some working space. Not much, but just enough to swing a hammer with a 2" wide head while holding a finishing nail with needle nose pliers to drive out the broken bits.
One reason the pins sheared off was because there is a load of stress on them. The timing is advanced, and all three carbs are operated through those two 3/32" diameter pins. To make it harder, each carb has its own strong return spring that adds to the resistance on the linkage.
So, I disconnect the horizontal link with the ball/socket ends to determine if anything was binding or making the assembly harder to move. Turns out the nut just below the right hand ball/socket was tight, making it hard to move move the linkage cam that pushes the carbs open. So backing off that lock nut a mere 1/4 turn made the cam rotate easy, taking a good amount of resistance out of the whole assembly.
Next I checked the vertical link that connects all three carbs. It was rather hard to move. Not because its binding, but each carb has its own return spring. By moving the spring end stop from one side of the butterfly lever to the other (let the spring unwind about 140*) to take just a little bit of resistance off the spring. Did this to the top two carbs, and left the bottom alone. In the photo below, the end of the spring is bent over the butterfly shaft lever. This is where I moved it to. It was rotated clock wise and hooked where the number "42" is stamped into the lever. Although its easier to open the carbs, there is still plenty of spring force pushing the carbs closed.
I am still looking for 3/32" roll pins (got any?), but if they are not to be found, might cut the finishing nails to the right length, then flatten one end slightly to make a friction fit. But the nails are not as strong as roll pins, so I would prefer to use roll pins.
Thats where its at tonight. A really hard spot to work, but luckily the cables come out easy to make the job a little easier.
For some reason, Force did not cover the disassembly or adjustment of this entire linage in the OE shop manual. Go figure.
I'm going to check Mcmaster.com, but I bet I'll have to buy a bag of 1000 or so if they have them.
The pic below shows the arm with two finishing nails inserted where the two roll pins should be. To get to the point of driving out the pins without removing the power head or cowl, the shift and throttle cables were disconnected and completely removed from the motor. This gives some working space. Not much, but just enough to swing a hammer with a 2" wide head while holding a finishing nail with needle nose pliers to drive out the broken bits.
One reason the pins sheared off was because there is a load of stress on them. The timing is advanced, and all three carbs are operated through those two 3/32" diameter pins. To make it harder, each carb has its own strong return spring that adds to the resistance on the linkage.
So, I disconnect the horizontal link with the ball/socket ends to determine if anything was binding or making the assembly harder to move. Turns out the nut just below the right hand ball/socket was tight, making it hard to move move the linkage cam that pushes the carbs open. So backing off that lock nut a mere 1/4 turn made the cam rotate easy, taking a good amount of resistance out of the whole assembly.
Next I checked the vertical link that connects all three carbs. It was rather hard to move. Not because its binding, but each carb has its own return spring. By moving the spring end stop from one side of the butterfly lever to the other (let the spring unwind about 140*) to take just a little bit of resistance off the spring. Did this to the top two carbs, and left the bottom alone. In the photo below, the end of the spring is bent over the butterfly shaft lever. This is where I moved it to. It was rotated clock wise and hooked where the number "42" is stamped into the lever. Although its easier to open the carbs, there is still plenty of spring force pushing the carbs closed.
I am still looking for 3/32" roll pins (got any?), but if they are not to be found, might cut the finishing nails to the right length, then flatten one end slightly to make a friction fit. But the nails are not as strong as roll pins, so I would prefer to use roll pins.
Thats where its at tonight. A really hard spot to work, but luckily the cables come out easy to make the job a little easier.
For some reason, Force did not cover the disassembly or adjustment of this entire linage in the OE shop manual. Go figure.
I'm going to check Mcmaster.com, but I bet I'll have to buy a bag of 1000 or so if they have them.
