Re: TieDown Engineering Stainless Steel Disc Caliper Problemsa
I've had the same Tiedown stainless brakes on my trailer for 3 years - used mostly in salt water.<br /><br />The rubber boots don't stay secure over the caliper pistons. White corrosion forms on the aluminum inside the boot causing the brakes to drag sometimes. According to the folks who made my trailer, these brakes are also prone to squeeling and overheating. The trailer manufacturer still has Tiedown parts, but they now put Kodiak on all their trailers.<br /><br />Because I didn't have the bucks to convert, I bought new Tiedown calipers ($126 - includes shipping). I didn't even ask about rebuilding the calipers because I doubted it would be practical, especially after the bleeder screw broke on the first one I took apart.<br /><br />I've minimized the Tiedown problems by keeping the hub bearings on the loose side. After preload, I set the hub nut loose enough that I can move the washer by hand. It's not uncommon to have the brake(s) heat up when I first get the trailer on the road, but they cool down after 25 miles or so. The extra bearing clearance keeps the heat from tightening up the bearing and I also believe it allows a slight rotor wobble to push those sticky pistons back away so they don't drag. <br /><br />I had a couple spare indoor/outdoor thermometers lying around ($12 @ Walmart); I fastened the outdoor bulb to the brake backing plate with a cable tie and spliced some extra wire in so I could keep the readout part on the seat next to me. The readings don't tell me real temperature, but they do alert me if hub temp is on the rise at a fast pace. The side of the trailer in the sun is always higher than the shady side.<br /><br />I've put >35,000 miles on my boat trailers in the last 6 years.<br /><br />YMMV,<br />Nick in Spartanburg, SC<br />
http://www.geocities.com/jeff_nicholas/BBR.html