Tilt and Trim

[eedwards]

Are there tilt and trim units on other outboard makes that will work on my '75 90HP?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Tilt and Trim

Some early Evinrude/Johnson used the same motor and pump--Chrysler probably outsourced from the same manufacturer--probably Prestolite, but as far as I know, the tilt and trim cylinders were chrysler only. Trim cylinder was always shaped as the Chrysler Pentagon. Tilt Cylinders were made by Prestolite.

The good news is that you can use ANY tilt and trim assembly from ANY Chrysler or Force three or four cylinder engine (except Force 70 -- I'm not sure of that engine because it was a different block and may have had different mounting clamps) right up until the early to mid 1990s when Merc started to use their own midleg on the Force engines.

 

[eedwards]

Re: Tilt and Trim

Thanks for the info.
I was looking at the CMC units sure are pricey!
And i was trying to figure out wich is better a jack plate or a trim and tilt?
I know the jack plates are more ,but if im going to spend that much i would like what would be best.i figure i will be sticking with outboards some i can take it off and use on the next boat.

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt and Trim

I prefer the original. It is a two stage system that has slower trim and faster tilt. It is easy to install since it does not require remounting engine. The problem is cost. If you have a system that is in fairly decent shape it costs $300ish to have it rebuilt. If done correctly then the rebuilt unit is good as new and will last another 15-25 years. The problem is that if you do not already have TnT then you are looking at $300 plus the cost of buying a used one.

In terms of not having any system to start with then the third party systems might be a better choice. If you buy a used one then you are probably buying trouble. Any used system is 17-30 years old and already running on borrowed time. The pump and motor are usually first things to go. When one goes out (pump or motor) then the other usually fails within a season or two. A lot of people fall into trap of replacing motor for $250 only to find themselves needing a $300 pump the next year (or vice versa). Getting existing pump assembly rebuilt as a whole unit is better choice but still around $200. The rams typically outlive pump by about five years. So ..... if you do not have an existing system then you are looking at $250 to buy a used unit and a very high probability of needing $200 - $400 in repairs over the next few years. At that point it might be cheaper to buy third party.

 

[HOOPNETJULIO136]

Re: Tilt and Trim

I have an 87-88 85 horse force that also has tnt problems. Bleed-off. Bad bleed off. I have a repair manual on the way, but have taken the motor/pump off already as I have a bit of a pnuematic/hydraulic background. I was wondering if anyone knows if the manual will have the factory trim repair info in it. I assume yes. I have the pump figured out except were the 7 small round brass shim/washers fell out of. Any help would be appreciated, as I am a newbee as far as outboard repair. Also, were is the air/fuel adjustment for the carbs of this little 3 cylinder??

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt and Trim

Manual won't help you. It's your check valves. Evinrude used to sell them for under $20 but those days are long gone. Try Ebay. If you have access to an inventory of industrial hydraulic supply then you may be able to wander the aisles and find what you need. Just don't split the plates and there probably isn't anything you can do that would make it unrepairable. If you can't get it to work then you can always send it off and get it rebuilt for $100-$120.

If you haven't replaced your motor yet then this might be good time to get it rebuilt too. The motor and valve body usually go out around same time. Fix both at once and you can be done with it.

 

[HOOPNETJULIO136]

Re: Tilt and Trim

Are these check valves housed in the lower portion of the pump body that has the manual bleed marked on the end of the housing with the ring clips holding everything in?

Who does the re-builds for you?

And how long on a turn around time for the repairs?

Thanks for the reply.....

 

[RRitt]

Re: Tilt and Trim

The plug held in by the retaining ring is the check valve assy. Be careful when taking out retaining ring. It needs to be stainless and stainless retaining rings are hard to find. The last thing you need is having to buy 100 SS retaining rings. They aren't cheap. After you remove the retaining clip hold the pump over a bucket and run the motor. The plug should pop out. With a hex driver you can push slider valve out the other end. Don't use a solid shaft to push out slider valve. If you do then you might damage the nipple and ruin the pump.

I rebuild them myself. After scouring through half-dozen industrial supply houses I was able to locate industry standard replacements for all the critical parts.

pumps are quick but difficult to do right. motors are slow but easy to do. the problem with motors is that new motors are assembled before painting. So the insides are usually rusty. In order to do a 110% job you have to bead blast the field frame to remove any existing rust, chemically dip it, and then paint it with a waterproof finish. Ideally PPG DX1791 or a waterproof zinc-chromate. If you have a 3w motor then the cable fitting is a standard waterproof cord grip (aluminum) that you can get from any electrical supply house.