Tilt Leak Down 1989 Force 125

gregmsr

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Sep 20, 2006
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Did the leak down test and found tilt cylinder held for two days.
So, removed valve body, blew the spool valves out (no problem getting them out except c-clip went flying out while removing, found it 2 hours later).

The spool valves were EXTREMELY tight to get apart with the panel pliers..first one was bad but the second one was REALLY tight.
I can't imagine ever getting these apart without some scaring the soft aluminum (which I did). I finally stacked more 1/2" washers and got a lot better bite with the tool. The extra washers also protected the surface when the panel pliers slipped off under pressure.

Now a question, does the shuttle valve have to be positioned a certain way or just slide it back into place?
I notice there is notches offset from each other on both ends.
 

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pnwboat

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Just slide it back into place. The notches do not have to be oriented in any particular position.
 

jerryjerry05

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I modified the tool to let the valves set further back in.
​Then I used a bunch of washers that fit so it brings the tool up.
​Remove the o-rings.
Then I used a propane torch to heat it and quickly put the tool on and covered with a rag and the center piece just pops right out(not always).
​Too much heat can ruin the springs inside the valve.
​If it does get scoring a file on the edges.
 

SkiDad

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Jul 18, 2010
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like the other said, just replace all the seals - i used a tooth pick to pop the one off the shuttle valve - should be 5 o-rings and the 2 lawn mower seats (i used the green ones) and then back together - i put a little 30 weigh non-detergent oil on the shuttle valve and spools so it pressed back together easily.
 

gregmsr

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Sep 20, 2006
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I filed the forks on the tool for wider fit but it still slipped off several times.
I left the o-rings on hoping to help protect the lip from scaring.
A little heat did help...
Yea a little filing and 1000 grit hope to smooth it back up.
Just shove the shuttle valve back in sounds good...

Trying to find correct size o-rings has me freaking out...
Any idea of each size? I'll measure them best I can..

The non detergent 10w-30...is this just SAE 30 or HD 30? Can't seem to find a brand stating "non-detergent"

I will re-assemble this weekend with some luck and post results...Thanks for your help.
 

SkiDad

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for the seats you need these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/2-PACK-NEED...168247?hash=item5b37525bb7:g:DyEAAOSwniRWNy44 (you might be able to find at lawmower place)

for o-rings i bought a 10.00 kit at Harbor Freight - you need 2 sizes - it will be the ones that are a hair smaller than the ones you pulled off since the old ones stretched. https://www.harborfreight.com/180-piece-viton-o-ring-kit-67525.html

when i did my boats i used an orange Autozone bottle - said SAE 30 non detergent - i don't see it on the site, so likely this is what they carry now: http://www.autozone.com/motor-oil-a...ine-oil/stp-engine-oil-nd-30-1-qt-/811768_0_0
 

gregmsr

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All new o-rings in and back together with non detergent oil.
Somebody said "fittings cross thread very easily"..That's an understatement. The tilt line tried its best to cross thread but after about an hour of careful attempts it finally went. Yes, they will cross thread VERY easily. Almost lost threads...

One final scare was with the fill plug...made a mistake putting channel locks on it for just a little snug....bad move.
It partially stripped the threads..dang.
Finger tight and teflon tape on the fill plug.

Otherwise, the leak down is repaired and holding nicely.....those two small seals apparently were the problem.

Thanks to all for your help!
 

pnwboat

Rear Admiral
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Oct 8, 2007
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Good job! Yes those fittings on the lines are a pain. Not uncommon to find them stripped.
 

Jiggz

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Oct 23, 2009
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The secret for re-installing those line fittings is to loosen both ends first to give you a little wiggle and get them started. As soon as you get it started on both ends then it is time to tighten up both.
 

gregmsr

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Sep 20, 2006
Messages
391
Didn't think of that...makes perfect sense.
The fill plug issue was a shocker...it was just finger tight when I started the job.
Almost believe it was slightly stripped before I started...I never had it out before.
 

Jiggz

Captain
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Oct 23, 2009
Messages
3,909
The fill plug can be remedied easily but it needs to be done correctly. If it is leaking (or maybe not since the fluid level is at the low end of the hole), there is a good chance of water intrusion that can contaminate the fluid hence, eventually destroying the entire system.
 

jerryjerry05

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May 7, 2008
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Those fill plugs are a PITA.
Just go slow and if it doesn't turn easy?? STOP!! :
 
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