Time for some expert paint advice

[Sunsetrider]

I'm reaching the point where paint choices will have to be made and despite long hours perusing the wisdom of the forum I need the straight-up goods . . . on
1. pre-paint prep of the hull an and and interior,
2. undercoat? what brand and exact type?
3. Finish coats? same question.

I intend to go with a white hull and a color stripe/topsides, something light in color and available off the shelf from Rust-OLeum. I plan to paint with 6-inch foam roller/sponge tipper.

The pics below (still cannot get the hang of full-size pics, whether from my 'puter or from photobucket) show the state of the paint after sanding with 100 grit (still a few rows, and the bottom, to go). The topside has been sanded and is quite smooth. I understand the existing paint structure can serve as primer, so I guess i need an undercoat before the color coats. Am I guessing right? I wonder what specific type of paints are successful? I wonder whether the hull at this stage looks good enough to paint (except the bottom 2 strakes which aren't done yet).

The inside of the hull - I am thinking of gray spray paint, after a bit of scraping and sanding to get the loose stuff off. Have to know what type to go for.

I have to admit to being prepared to go for less than perfection as far as below the waterline is concerned. However I should note that all my boats stay in the water pretty much all summer long (fresh water, pretty clean since we drink it after filtering).

Thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Not sure if I qualify as an Expert, but I have slept at a Holiday Inn.
Prep is the key. All imperfections must be repaired or you will see them. Depends on how picky you want to be. Sanding for primer should stop @ 180 grit. Primer should be the Primer Recommended by the Color coat MFG. I recommend wet sanding with either 320 or scotch brite pad between coats of primer. and tack cloth wipe down with acetone.
You can't use Rustoleum below the waterline if you're gunna leave em in the water all season. It won't hold up for more than a few years. I'd recommend Pettit EasyPoxy for the Hull. You Can use Rustoleum for above the waterline and use an acrylic enamel hardener in the paint to give it additional durability. You can also use the Hardener in the EasyPoxy. The Last link in my signature below has some good info on how to do the Roll n' Roll technique as well as how to mix the paint. I also has other paint brand options.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

I just deleted my post. Grrr.

I've been reading up and getting more unsure as I go. But I'll try to summarize (again): When I finish sanding the hull with 100 grit, then again with 180, 2 coats of Pettit white marine undercoat over the entire hull (sanding 220 between coats of each type of paint). Then 2 coats of Easypoxy white below the waterline (do I use the thinner/hardener additives here as well as for the finish coats?). It seems if I don't take it down to bare metal I shouldn't need primer? Do i have that right?

The 2 or 3 coats (depending on results) of Rusto regular paint (either white or my custom color mix to get aqua) on the above waterline hull and top.

I will do the exterior first, interior second.

Am i on the right track?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Hardener on all Finish Coats. None in the primer or undercoater. I always use Primer On the entire boat. It helps the Final coats bond better. No chance of it having issues with the other paint.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Thanks WoG. I guess the Rusto Clean Metal primer would work for this purpose, right? And so then the "undercoat" would not be necessary.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

I'd use the undercoater with the Petit and the Clean Metal Primer with the Rustoleum.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Despite the wisdom of your advice regarding the below-the-waterline area, I must (shamefacedly) admit to a sneaking desire to just go with Rusto anyhow . . . lemme 'splain . . . . my intention for this boat is to provide an economical solution to our extended-family cottage in the wilds of Quebec which I personally get to enjoy for about 6 days over the summer. The various family groups book their 2-week vacation there and currently there is no motorized boat for them to enjoy getting out on the (31-mile long) lake. I want this boat to look appealing to the kids but not necessarily to the fish. The cottage will have to be sold when mum passes (she is in care at 88), and the boat can be re-spruced then. The boat will stay in the boathouse all summer long until that unhappy day. Unhappy for us, not for Mum.

True Confessions continue: Along the same vein I intend to apply 2 or 3 coats of spar varnish to the ply decking, topped with Dek-master vinyl, rather than getting all sticky again with epoxy and glass.

Before any of this happens I have to get the dang motor off and flip the boat. I have no paved surfaces on my property so I need a creative solution to move the boat into my fabric temp garage for painting etc. I'm thinking about using my other trailer for that. Without buying a bunch of lumber just for that. I wish I had big muscles . . . . and no arthritic knee joints! LOL

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

If you use the Hardener with the Rustoleum it could last longer. There is no research, experience or data on this that I can find or know of. The hardener will change the properties of the acrylic enamell so it may stand up better to long term immersion in fresh water. I just don't know. I guess you could be the "Test Case" and let us know your results. Good Luck!!!!

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Well, the Fat Lady hasn't yet sung . . . turns out I can get Easypoxy at dealer cost so I might as well go with it. I have to figure out how much to order through my friend, and I lan on mixing a little green into the white for the top and a stripe. But as a point of clarity - - - -> do I take it that with Easypoxy I won't be trying to find an appropriate hardener? Would I just proceed with thinner and leave it at that? It seems there is no hardener partnered with the Easypoxy paint . . .

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

True, no hardener comes with Easypoxy, but... you can use Acrylic Enamel Hardener with it. I did on my boat and it worked great. It's up to you whether or not you want to use it. If you do you MUST use precautions due to the chemicals but it will work with the paint. and it will add to the gloss and the durability of the paint. That's my personal experience and opinion.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Thanks Woody (!), that's the info I was looking for. I am going to look for that product. By "precautions" I will assume you refer to latex gloves, long sleeves/pants, and a respirator. Or is the respirator overkill?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

A Respirator IS MANDTORY!! Preferably a Full Face. If not then the Best 1/2 Face you can get with filters for Isocyanates.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

"cyanates" . . . . sounds ominous . . . I have a new half-face with replaceable filters.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Not really, as long as you have the right filters and you're either outside or have good ventilation. I did mine and I'm not dead....Yet!!!!

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Update for a slow resto . . . .

So it turns out that the Canadian Guv loves us way more than the the US guv loves 'Murricans. They won't let us morons get our stoopid hands on anything that might cause harm, like any sort of alkyd hardener. Can't even get Plasti-dip anymore. anyhow . . .

I ended up going with Easypoxy through my buddy and I finally put a coat of Undercoater on the topside - by which I mean the top horizontal area - which was a dark blue. The gunwale tops were done with little sponge things, and the bow with foam rollers. First of all I have to say how effective this Undercoater is, it sands off like budda and results in a very smooth surface. The area painted with the sponges is still mostly blue and the area done with roller is mostly white, but both are - after sanding with 220 grit - nice and smooth. So I guess I can go ahead and start with the finish coats?

I have been sanding this with dry 220 on a sponge sanding block. Easy enuff on the top, but do folks use the rotary sander on the undercoater?

 

[jbcurt00]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Don't they still sell the real DEET Off bug repellant in Canada?

I guess ya gotta have priorities: Mosquito-free hunting must be one & boat work, not so much

Psst: pix?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Does the gubbament allow R/O Sanders??

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Does the gubbament allow R/O Sanders??

Sure, and we develop amazing wrist muscles vibrating the pad . . . .

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

Psst: pix?

OK. Here's a few pics to show how the easypoxy Undercoat is going on. It' smoother to the touch than to the eye. Tonight I made some progress in fitting the decking and with a new blade on my saw I was able to bevel the 3/4 ply to anchor the seats. Pics and post to follow.

 

[Sunsetrider]

Re: Time for some expert paint advice

This pic shows a number of issues. For example:

- the decking has 1 coat of spar varnish on top and 2 underneath. I am going to top it with KiwiGrip and I think that will be as waterproof as I need it to be. But I would like to fill that gap running down between the sheets of ply with a standard-issue product. What are the compounds to avoid here?

- I wanted desperately to scrap the seats and boxes that came with the boat. But after checking out the cost of great looking seats I began to appreciate the quality and esthetic nature of the blue vinyl you see before you. I've decided to install them in the boat but to discard the boxes they sat upon. So I have to decide the right height for them, and the method to use. I think the front seats are at the right height and the rears shouild be lifted about 6 inches.

Comments and opinions welcomed as always.