Tips from my shop

[JCNailen]

Thought I would pass along a couple of tips that we use in my shop. Perhaps others could add their little tips and tricks too!

1) Goof-Off and a green scotch-brite scrubbing pad will make an old rub rail look brand new!

2) To refurbish that yellowed clear coat, try light wet sanding with 2000 grit (by hand), and polish with some headlight lens cleaner from the auto parts store. Works great!

 

[fat fanny]

Re: Tips from my shop

I have teal colored insert in my rub rail and I have tried everything with scotch brite and haven't been able to remove the black from the rail frame (bleed over I think ) I''ll try the goof-off

 

[kfa4303]

Re: Tips from my shop

i think this is a great idea for a thread/sticky. it's always the clever litle tricks they don't put in the books that can make all the difference in the world. of course, i can't think of any clever tips off the top of my head , but i'll post 'em here when inspiration strikes. thaks again for the tips.

 

[j_k_bisson]

Re: Tips from my shop

The tips from my shop are:

1) Beer is always better ice cold, but nothing is better than free beer!
2) If drinking whiskey do not operate any power equipment that can hurt you.
3) If drinking whiskey make the ice float before adding the coke!

 

[Cadwelder]

Re: Tips from my shop

20 - 30 years old small crafts (under 19') are seldom ever worth the labor and material for a complete restore.....but can be a great learning project, and a good time for drinking beer with your buddies.

 

[idonthaveaname]

Re: Tips from my shop

20 - 30 years old small crafts (under 19') are seldom ever worth the labor and material for a complete restore.....but can be a great learning project, and a good time for drinking beer with your buddies.

So very true on both subjects. Fortunately, I am very handy with tools and materials or would havbe never tackled something like I am doing. The beer helps....helps a lot. ;-) you just have to make sure it's very cold as jk bission said.

A couple of other tips...

There are no shortcuts
Do it right or do it again
Safety is the key. You can't stand up in 30ft of water.
You might be able to bring back the flecks in your gel coat, but chances are you'll paint it.
Chemical enhancers don't work like they say they will.
Unless your boats stays in the water, don't paint the bottom unless you have a really good reason.

 

[tistore]

Re: Tips from my shop

Here is something i learned from an old airforce pilot. when you have a oil drain plug leaking and you need to replace the drain plug or gasket but you don't want to lose the oil you might have just put in it, you can take a shop vac and put the hose over the oil fill turn the vacume on and remove the drain plug and the oil will stay in the motor plus it won't suck up into the shop vac. hope this helps someone.

 

[QC]

Re: Tips from my shop

Seems like that might ^^^^^^ work if you had a sealed crankcase i.e. true PCV. If there is any type of open "breather" then seems like it wouldn't work. Not sure of the downside of trying it. Worst case is a messy vaccum or a messy shop floor.

 

[JB]

Re: Tips from my shop

Here is something i learned from an old airforce pilot. when you have a oil drain plug leaking and you need to replace the drain plug or gasket but you don't want to lose the oil you might have just put in it, you can take a shop vac and put the hose over the oil fill turn the vacume on and remove the drain plug and the oil will stay in the motor plus it won't suck up into the shop vac. hope this helps someone.

What an incredibly foolish idea!! That guy must have been a fighter pilot; they love to dare fate.

Drain the oil. Then fix the plug/gasket. Finally, pour the oil back in. End of safe procedure.

 

[fishrdan]

Re: Tips from my shop

What an incredibly foolish idea!!


That guy must have been a fighter pilot; they love to dare fate.

I'm not with you here JB, it could work. worst case it makes a big mess.

NOW.... If he said;

1- leave engine running
2- plug in vac
3- remove/replace oil drain plug

Then yeah, I'd agree with ya



Here's one of my tricks for Shopvacs. Place a 2-3# rock inside an old pillow case, then hose clamp the pillow case to the hose inlet inside the tank. The pillow case will filter out all the fine particles (IE: drywall dust) and keep the main filter form getting plugged. The pillow case is washable and much cheaper than buying disposable shopvac "bags". $5 for a pillow case, or $10 for 3 disposable shopvac bags.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Tips from my shop

Sounds to me like some of you guys need to wear a respirator more often when yer werkin with dat fiberglassin. Dem fumes iz a gittin to ya!!!!! I'm just sayin....

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Tips from my shop

Whole heart agreed ^^ .. this oil stuff is Not tricks..its a mess waiting to happen..drain it then fix..


Now my best Shop tip is ..

Get a full face resporator ( I Love the newer full feild view 3m's .. BUY the lenz covers for them as to not scratch the HIGH dollar lenz of the respo ).

Get a good set of ear Muffs ( not buds that you have to squishy in your ear ). Muffs..

Put in your mp3 ear buds and then put your ear muffs Over/on top of those. Then..

Full grinding suit ( the one with hoodies and footies ) .

Powderd ( I mean POWDERED ) latex gloves.

1" tape your gloves over your suit to seal.

You can also "rag" you neck before suiting up ( basically take a rag around your kneck before you suit up ).

YD.

PS. Tape your suit zipper at the neck so it does not unzip on its own ..

 

[oops!]

Re: Tips from my shop

I have teal colored insert in my rub rail and I have tried everything with scotch brite and haven't been able to remove the black from the rail frame (bleed over I think ) I''ll try the goof-off

laqur thinner....its the other miracle clean for boats (the first is acetone).

 

[oops!]

Re: Tips from my shop

Full grinding suit ( the one with hoodies and footies ) .

my grinding suit is a bio med suit.....ill get pics when i get a new one......after 4 months it finally gave out....not bad for under 20 bux....tyvec is dead.

as far as the rag around your neck.....i whole heartedly agree.....(i wear a full beach towel tucked into my coveralls) not just for the dust...but also as a basic protection if the grinding disc shatters....you dont want to catch a piece of 12,000 rpm thrown disc in your jugular !

 

[ondarvr]

Re: Tips from my shop

You can't do this everywhere, but a put my shop vac outside and use a pool vacuum hose, they can be purchased up to 40' long. I just plug in the extension cord to turn it off and on from inside the boat, or where ever I am. This worked great when I remodeled the house too.

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Tips from my shop

2 more for ya..

Keep a fire extinguisher near your chemicals.

Keep a clean working area..sanding/grinding dust can get Very slippery ( Especially when wet .. it can turn to slime ).

YD.

 

[jasoutside]

Re: Tips from my shop

Here a shop tip for ya...

Put stuff back where it's supposed to go!

I find myself just throwing stuff on the bench sometimes, then more, then some more, then it makes it's way elsewhere. Next thing I know it's everywhere and I find myself taking out an entire day just to clean up and put stuff back. I work so much faster/efficiently when everything it where it's supposed to be!

Bad...

Good...

Let's see if I can follow my own advice now:facepalm:

 

[Bob_VT]

Re: Tips from my shop

I am a fan of Nitrile Gloves which are tougher then latex and yes get the powdered ones.

The other thing I always tend to keep around is a first aid kit. You never get cut when you have one around but, when one is missing.....you always seem to get cut or pick up a respectable splinter!

 

[Mrkoolbreeze]

Re: Tips from my shop

Duct tape, it will help remove fiberglass from your skin, not all of it but it makes a huge difference. As a heating and ac guy I used to spend a lot of time with the stuff. simply roll a wrap or two around your hand backwards so the sticky side is facing out and pat down the effected area.

 

[docrodg]

Re: Tips from my shop

OK... A couple of my tricks/requirements:

A somewhat stripped screw head or screw that is really tight can be backed out by spitting on the end of the screwdriver or bit and dipping it in Comet bathtub scrubbing powder.

A good rag can is a must. It should be a flammable rag can used in commercial shops.

Before using a chemical check the NIOSH website for which gloves, filters, etc. are compatible. http://www.cdc.gov/niosh/npg/

Get a DOT approved metal gas can for spare gas. And a nice big fire extinguisher.

There is no adapter needed that cannot be fabricated for 10 bucks in plumbing fittings at the hardware store.

Before working on wiring check your crimpers to make sure they crimp correctly: Take a piece of wire and crimp a ring on it, screw to your workbench, wrap wire around a screwdriver and pull... hard. If it holds you are good to go.

Welding sparks fly farther than you think, and stay hot longer than you think.

Use foam inserts in a tool box with cutouts that fit each tool. When done working, check that all tools are back in their spots so you don't destroy your engine when you start it.

First aid kits and fire extinguishers are a must. If working alone, so is a cell phone.