Total rewire

Walkersteelhead

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 28, 2005
Messages
30
After installing the 1 wire alternator I started trying to trouble shoot the trim/tilt motor and was looking at some hack artists work at various points in the electrical. I have decided to do a total rewire. Any tips or tricks I should look at before jumping in. I am an electrician so I understand wiring but I am new to boats. I'm also thinking of installing a fuse panel,is there a better idea that I am not seeing.
 

jlinder

Lieutenant Junior Grade
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Jul 5, 2004
Messages
1,086
Re: Total rewire

Here's a quick start:<br /><br />1. Use marine grade wire. It is tinned and more resistant to corrosion.<br /><br />2. Connect wires with crimp connections. Wire nuts are a big no-no. When you crimp, crimp well.<br /><br />3. Seal all connections with adhesive coated heat shrink. The marine environment is murder for corrosion. Especially salt water.<br /><br />4. You need to fuse any wire coming from the battery withikn 7 inches of the battery. (Except engine starter wire if you have a sterndrive.<br /><br />5. BTW - Was that a marine alternator? I needs to be a marine alternator.<br /><br />6. Fuse panel is a good idea.<br /><br />7. Unlike autos, boats have no good ground. YOu must run a good ground wire.<br /><br />8. Remember, this is a 12 volt system. You must not only size the wire to be able to carry the amperage, but be concerned with voltage drop. ON a 12 volt system trying to keep to 2% or so total voltage drop is tough.<br /><br />9. If you have fuses, you really need to carry spare fuses. Think about where you will have these so they will always be handy.<br /><br />10. Vibration is a big killer. Make sure to support the wiring well.<br /><br />I'm sure others will have more to say.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,079
Re: Total rewire

Finding the Right Color wire might be an Issue.........<br /><br />If Your wiring Doesn't match the wiring diagrams,..... It Won't be much good.....<br /><br />Nice New Wires,+ Only You will Know Where They Go...............<br /><br />Circuit Breakers are Miles Ahead of Fuses............ Built-In Spares......
 

Walkersteelhead

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Mar 28, 2005
Messages
30
Re: Total rewire

It is a Marine alternator. My gas tank is in the bow behind the dash. I was going to mount my panel if I did one there cuase of the lack of mounting places. My batteries are going to be back by the motor it is an 140/153 4 cyl. So will I have to fuse the wire feeding the panel. The ground as of right now is going to the block on the motor. Thanks for the reply.
 

Zamboni

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jan 29, 2005
Messages
151
Re: Total rewire

As an electrician your probably aware it exists but might not have thought of using for this ap...color coded heat shrink. As Bondo said getting right color wire is dificult, and would be $$ cause you wouldn't use 1/8 of most rolls. Simply space small peices of heat shrink to turn black wire green...black with yellow stripe etc needs a code future owners can follow.
 

KaGee

Admiral
Joined
Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Total rewire

Just to throw one more thing into the stew... i was taught in trade school by an "old timer" to twist or crimp your connections and then solder it. This is a good standard for auto or boat wiring.
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Total rewire

hello<br /> coast gaurd says solder is a no no. dont really know why nor do I have to. I use only the heat shrink epoxy filled connectors. also a good set of crimpers from snap-on or equivalent. the stamped steel ones tend to not crimp tight enough and they tend to cut the insulation at the crimp.<br /> the pliers I use are about 45 a set but last 3 or 4 years. heat shink colors at the ends do not conform to ABYC standards. that is why the AYBC has a color code chart. some of the harnesses are availible already made. at 75 per hour I will usually buy a harness rather than make a one off copy. the AYBC is a standard but I dont think its a legally enforcable standard. sure is nice though. nothing like opening up a console to see 50 red wires all going to different places.
 

Ralph 123

Captain
Joined
Jun 24, 2003
Messages
3,983
Re: Total rewire

Before you begin take some time to learn as much as you can about marine wiring. A good place to start is:<br /><br /> http://www.ancorproducts.com/ <br /><br />Click on the "technical Information" link. There is lots of good information including marine color codes, ABYC standards, FAQs, etc.<br /><br />Buy the Seloc or OEM manual for your power package. They contain good schematics.<br /><br />Here is a good article from Don Casey about electrical connections:<br /> http://www.boatus.com/boattech/casey/05.htm <br /><br />Check eBay. You may be able to find brand new OEM harnesses for both your gauge cluster and the harness that runs from the console to the engine. You can also find brand new distribution panels at a significant discount.
 

chuckz

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Aug 22, 2004
Messages
625
Re: Total rewire

Ok, here we go. The Coast Guard does not say solder is a no no. They say solder cannot be the sole means of holding the connection together. Anybody that has been trained to solder knows you splice first for the mechanical connection and then solder for the electrical connection. Any properly made solder joint is not joined by solder only. This is identical to the crimp arguement. A properly made crimp makes a good mechanical and electrical bond. Ditto for solder, a properly made solder joint makes a good mechanical and electrical bond. The difference being it takes much more skill to make a proper solder joint. You need to know how to splice as well as solder. Crimps were invented to lessen the skill required to join two conductors and therfore lower cost. Both methods are acceptable IF done properly. Neither is acceptable if done wrong. The method you choose to use should be based upon your skills and availabilty to the right tools.
 

KaGee

Admiral
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Aug 14, 2004
Messages
7,069
Re: Total rewire

Right on Chuck!<br /><br />See... told you it would light up conversation! :D <br /><br />Just eliminate the hassle. Find a junker with your engine package and approximate length and install the used harness. :cool:
 

chuckz

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Aug 22, 2004
Messages
625
Re: Total rewire

Thanks, but I'm still keeping my head down :D
 

Don S

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Aug 31, 2004
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62,321
Re: Total rewire

Here are a couple of sites that will help in your rewire.<br /> Anchor Marine Products has wire, connectors, fueses, etc. Also tech info and ABYC excerpts.<br /><br /> Blue Sea Lots of stuff. Lots of technical information.
 

trog100

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Dec 1, 2004
Messages
751
Re: Total rewire

a full rewire is one hell of job.. not something i would do unless the existing loom had suffered a meldown or something equally as catastrophic..<br /><br />and even if u have a full set of OEM looms u still have all the "extras" that folks have fitted over the years..<br /><br />usually the problem is caused by crappy spade connectors.. i recon replacing connectors and leaving the basic loom in place makes more sense..<br /><br />surprized it aint a marine thing.. never use spade connectors..<br /><br />sometimes wires go black all the way along their length.. known as the "black wire" syndrome.. no one seems to know exactly what causes it or how to prevent it and it takes several years to come about.. these "black" wires need replaceing cos its almost impossible to solder or make good crimp connection to em..<br /><br />trog100
 

Dunaruna

Admiral
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May 2, 2003
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6,027
Re: Total rewire

When you're finished, draw your own scematic and laminate it for future reference.<br /><br />Aldo
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
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Re: Total rewire

L.I.chuck<br /> I can agree with the most people cant solder. to properly clean and tin both components then properly heat and cool them cannot usually be done on wires from 22awg to 6 awg with the average 30-060watt iron. sometimes my 250 watt is not enough. I had a 4 week course in soldering with a practicle test at the completion. took 4 practice tests before I took and passed the final test. test consisted of both written and doing. my test(1 out of possible 4) was to build a 12v DC power supply, the joints were inspected,tested and then I had to plug it in and turn it on, if it works you remove it and unsolder all connections and remove all components and turn them back in for inspection on proper unsolder procedure. that does not include the micro minuature repair schools. so most the time I reccomend a striaght crimp but not with the dime store stamped steel crimpers. you just cant get a good crimp with them. period. I just bought another set from Matco, 45 dollars, my snap-on ones wore out,again. I dont like the matco cause on the 22-18 crimps its not tight enough but the snap on man is presently incarcerated and I cant find a replacement for them. but I have found with a good set of crimping pliers and the heat shrink epoxy filled connectors they will out last a solder heat shrink or liquid tape by years. <br /> the black wire disese is bad. sometimes will run several feet from the insulation break. not much can be done when the wire is rotting.<br /> plus when your upside down in the bilge with someone holding your feet its dang hard to solder properly :) as far as lessening the cost a factory solder unit is many times faster than crimping with less mistakes or waste. but most factory ends are crimped rather than soldered. crimping seems to take more flexing before breaking than soldering as there is no solder wicking up the wire. another point for the epoxy filled heat shrink connectors. if properly heat shrunk the shrink will bond to the insulation providing a watertight install and now the sleeve takes the wire mechanical load and not the crimp. either method willwork if done correctly. however neither will work long if not done correctly. nice thing about it in saltwater they all fail, some just take a year longer than others
 

rodbolt

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Sep 1, 2003
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Re: Total rewire

trog<br /> them clamp on "scotch-loks" should be outlawed period. maybe used only for temp use. as should insulation pieceing probes. I work with a tech that will pierce holes all over rather than making a test harness or jumper. time he is done the harness is doomed.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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71,079
Re: Total rewire

rodbolt,....<br />Where do You find to be the best place to get the epoxy filled heat shrink connectors ????<br /><br />I'm Sure I could find a Scotch-Lok or 2 in My Safety Kit,..... But, I Agree, they're an Emergency Band-aid At Best...........<br /><br />When they don't cause a wire to Rot off,.. They cause a viberation break..........
 

achris

More fish than mountain goat
Joined
May 19, 2004
Messages
27,468
Re: Total rewire

Why are you going to the extremely difficult task of re-building the wiring yourself? Why not just buy a new harness and fit it. No soldering problems, no colour problems, and you'd probably save about 10 hours in time.<br /><br />Bondo,<br /><br />'Glue lined crimp connectors' at RS Components. Adhesive lined connectors
 

rodbolt

Supreme Mariner
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Sep 1, 2003
Messages
20,066
Re: Total rewire

OMC used to sell them and Anchor products makes them<br /> they dont work well with cheap stamped steel crimpers. the crimpers have a tendacy to cut the insulation at the crimp site rendering the heat shrink useless.<br />I get mine at west marine or land and sea.<br />iboats may have them<br /> never searced that much
 

Bondo

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71,079
Re: Total rewire

Ayuh,......... I've got a nice set of Snap-Ons.....<br /><br />My Snap-On driver Isn't incarcerated,+ I'm on his $20.00@Week for Life Plan........... :D
 
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