Trailer Brakes - Which Option

04fxdwgi

04fxdwgi

Senior Chief Petty Officer
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Jun 10, 2011
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754
Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

haulnazz15 said:
I gotcha, I was planning on buying a whole new coupler/actuator. I wasn't aware that modifying the master cylinder was possible. Of course, that assumes that I have a functioning master cylinder to begin with, lol.
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When I went from 2 drums to 4 discs it was not cheap, but well worth it. The coupler on mine is the same and I just rebuilt it. When I did mine, I did replace the MC, since I wanted everything new. Mine is a Titan/Dico model 10. A major cost for me was changing all the rubber flexlines w/ stainless braided lines, plus there one extra one needed on each of the 4 calipers. I used the ones available at JEGS w/ the 3AN fittings, so needed all the adapters too.
 
gm280

gm280

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Jun 26, 2011
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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

I repaired a neighbor's twin axle trailer with electric drum brakes on it. Out of the four drum assemblies, three were completely rusted solid and very difficult to disassemble. Obviously the PO neglected to do any scheduled maintenance on them....ever... So once I got them all disassembled and wired-brushed up, I reassembled them with new shoes and grease in all pivot areas and of course the threaded adjusters too. They work great now. But after doing that job, it would look to me that if folks would clean all the rust off everything and paint everything, including the backing plate too, with some quality primer and paint, it would help in the rust preventative issue with any brake system. Scheduled maintenance is a must if you want brakes (any type brakes) at that critical moment... It seems too many folks avoid or forget all about their brakes until they stop working...
 
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haulnazz15

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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

Yeah, I've never owned a trailer with brakes, so I can't really attest to their value just yet, lol. However, I do know that it would make towing a good bit more enjoyable when people decide to cut me off or in an emergency braking situation. The idea of going to discs is just do to my familiarity with them and fewer moving parts to maintain. I will likely just try to find a new disc brake master cylinder that fits my coupler/actuator rod and swap over to discs. I'm still up in the air about whether to go ahead and do both axles, or just do the front axle and remove the brakes from the rear axle.
 
bruceb58

bruceb58

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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

oldjeep said:
You can just mount the controller to a holder that mounts in one of your cupholders. That is they way I've got my ram set up.
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So where does your cup go? :)
 
bruceb58

bruceb58

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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

haulnazz15 said:
Yeah, I've never owned a trailer with brakes, so I can't really attest to their value just yet, lol. However, I do know that it would make towing a good bit more enjoyable when people decide to cut me off or in an emergency braking situation. The idea of going to discs is just do to my familiarity with them and fewer moving parts to maintain.
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Trust me...you will wonder why you haven't done it before.

I would do both axles.
 
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haulnazz15

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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

oldjeep said:
In one of the other 7-8 cup holders in the truck ;)
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No kidding. With the bucket seats, I actually have more cupholders in the truck than I have seats! I believe there are 8 cupholders and only 5 places to sit, lol.
 
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DABS

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Apr 25, 2009
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Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

The UFP master cylinder is the same on all actuators now and do not need any modifications. The solenoid is used only in reverse and works off the backup light circuit. Try priming the master by disconnecting the brake line and stroking the pushrod then cap the solenoid fitting off with your finger and let it suck on your finger. A couple of strokes and it should prime and shoot fluid out the solenoid now. If it does not, replace the master cylinder. http://ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60, 75 _ 84 Actuator Maintenance.pdf this is the manual that describes the process. Remember, lower the nose of the trailer and bleed the brakes uphill. Air goes up in fluid and you want it to travel away from the master cylinder and up toward the bleeders.
 
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haulnazz15

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Mar 9, 2009
Messages
3,720
Re: Trailer Brakes - Which Option

DABS said:
The UFP master cylinder is the same on all actuators now and do not need any modifications. The solenoid is used only in reverse and works off the backup light circuit. Try priming the master by disconnecting the brake line and stroking the pushrod then cap the solenoid fitting off with your finger and let it suck on your finger. A couple of strokes and it should prime and shoot fluid out the solenoid now. If it does not, replace the master cylinder. http://ufpnet.com/Portals/0/PDFs/A-60,%2075%20_%2084%20Actuator%20Maintenance.pdf this is the manual that describes the process. Remember, lower the nose of the trailer and bleed the brakes uphill. Air goes up in fluid and you want it to travel away from the master cylinder and up toward the bleeders.
Click to expand...

Good info and much appreciated. I'm taking the scrap boat to the dump this week, so I'll get to mess with all of this in a few days. Also, good point on dropping the tongue, it only makes sense to bleed it that way and I wouldn't have even thought about it.
 
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