Trailer guides

[high&dry]

I got the poles. I cannot see my fenders with the truck and trailer straight. I can indeed see the poles nicely and the lights on them make backing in the dark very easy. My wife does not drive the boat or handle the truck/trailer. I have to do everything myself and F-A-S-T so as not to hold other people up. I do not have time to estimate and go back and forth to get just right. And I like being just right. The poles are easy to see in my side and rear mirror whereas before, without, there was no visual cue. I would have to S turn to keep track of my trailer.

I do not really like them visually, appearance, I do not need them to put the boat on and off, but they are very much helping with backing the trailer. And I have been trailering boats and backing trailers since before I had a DL and I am 64 now and back then we got a DL when we were 15yo!

J

 

[high&dry]

I had bunks on my previous trailer... they were great for corraling the boat when coming in with the wind (or when there were a lot of careless guys making huge waves while coming in to dock). They also made it super easy to get into the boat while trailered ....Does anyone know where these can be purchased?

Our local Academy has them and the poles in different sizes. All of these are common items.

Rollers and slides and all that have come up. My boat being a BW has a composite construction being a "UniBond" of fiberglass and foam laminated/bonded into a single piece hull and liner. These boats are not supposed to use rollers that could put point concentrated loads on the laminate and possibly debond those areas. My hull is supported by large, solid bunks. I do drive on and off but the last few feet I have to winch. I do load as I said, with engine running but I do not use aggressive power to push my boat home, I just winch the last little bit. I would need a lot of power to push the boat home on solid carpeted bunks.

J

 

[JimS123]

Our local Academy has them and the poles in different sizes. All of these are common items.

Rollers and slides and all that have come up. My boat being a BW has a composite construction being a "UniBond" of fiberglass and foam laminated/bonded into a single piece hull and liner. These boats are not supposed to use rollers that could put point concentrated loads on the laminate and possibly debond those areas. My hull is supported by large, solid bunks. I do drive on and off but the last few feet I have to winch. I do load as I said, with engine running but I do not use aggressive power to push my boat home, I just winch the last little bit. I would need a lot of power to push the boat home on solid carpeted bunks.

J

Boston Whalers usually come with custom built trailers. If you opt to not take it and buy one of your own, their very detailed Owner's Manual specifies what trailer design to buy.

The recommend a full keel roller trailer, equipped with bunks to stabilize the sides of the hull.

As with all boats (both cheap ones and upscale ones like Whalers) the keel is the strongest part of the hull. Thus, its just common sense that the keel needs and should have good support.

 

[high&dry]

Boston Whalers usually come with custom built trailers. If you opt to not take it and buy one of your own, their very detailed Owner's Manual specifies what trailer design to buy.

The recommend a full keel roller trailer, equipped with bunks to stabilize the sides of the hull.

As with all boats (both cheap ones and upscale ones like Whalers) the keel is the strongest part of the hull. Thus, its just common sense that the keel needs and should have good support.

My trailer was provided by the factory as part of the original equipment. It is the the trailer that BW specified for the boat. And it is not unlike the trailers on my previous two BWs, none of which had keel rollers and all of which were original equipment. And I will stay with what I said, BW specifically warns against use of roller bunks.

J

 

[SkiGuy1980]

These boats are not supposed to use rollers that could put point concentrated loads on the laminate and possibly debond those areas. My hull is supported by large, solid bunks.
J

I think all my trailers have been bunk type (at least starting with my first new boat in 1982). My current trailer is a Heritage made for my 16 Crownline. That trailer is solid and pulls well. I just wish it had side bunks to gather the front during loading (and make it easier to climb aboard while trailored). I'm going to give the factory a call to see if they have anything other than the rear "stand up roller" that looks like a cheap add on. Anyway landing this thing has had me scratching my head. Say... maybe it's just a better idea to stay on the water and not bother to go home

 

[JimS123]

My trailer was provided by the factory as part of the original equipment. It is the the trailer that BW specified for the boat. And it is not unlike the trailers on my previous two BWs, none of which had keel rollers and all of which were original equipment. And I will stay with what I said, BW specifically warns against use of roller bunks.

J

Some people don't understand the dynamics of a keel roller / bunk trailer. Also, some don't want the extra expense and potential maintenance of the rollers. Finally, some people use launch ramps that are suitable for ANY trailer. Thus, BW provides a cheap way out with their OEM trailers, and it you want to upgrade you can do it yourself.

From their Classic Manual, they recommend 2 alternate trailer types (quote):

1. Float-on bunk style trailer – Bunks should be as long as possible and conform to the shape of the hull to provide good fore and aft support to spread the total weight. For larger/heavier models, you may want to look into two sets of bunks. One set to cradle the keel and another further out for support. Keel rollers or guards can be used on the trailer cross members to provide additional support or protection. A float-on trailer is easier to maintain and works best in boat ramps with deeper water.
2. Keel roller trailer – Keel rollers must be adjusted so that they support the keel and bear ALL THE WEIGHT of the boat. Side bunks should be used to balance the weight on the keel rollers. A keel roller trailer works best in shallow water ramps.

My 2017 Montauk Manual specifically recommends Option 2 as the optimum setup.

My comments have been directed at keel rollers / carpeted bunks. Roller bunks were never discussed. You are correct that BW specifically advises again using rollers anywhere but the keel.

 

[Cat nip]

I use bunk guides on my toon and poles on my small aluminum boat. Trying to load a boat in fast current without them in one shot is more effort than I want to put in at 2am. I made the poles out of exhaust pipe and put pcv pipe over them and they are tall enough to see them with no boat on the trailer and directly behind the fenders.