Trailer painting process

nightvision

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Mar 7, 2004
Messages
252
Hi all,<br />I'm in the process of storing a boat trailer that will be used in fresh water only. Here is the process that will take.<br /><br />1. remove rust with wire wheel/sand paper<br />2. apply Naval Jelly (rust neutralizer) <br />3. wash, clean, and dry<br />4. apply primer<br />5. apply bondo in some area<br />6. apply final paint<br /><br />Did I missed any steps? What type of paint will hold up. I'm considering using Rustolium spray for the primer and paint. Thanks for you input.
 

Rick K

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Oct 6, 2003
Messages
235
Re: Trailer painting process

Nightvision,<br /><br />I just did two trailers - my boat trailer, and a utility trailer. On the boat trailer, I was on the wirewheel for 3 days. I hit it with 2 coats of that rubberized bedliner stuff. Looks great. A friend did his 3 years ago, and it still looks brand new. It holds up to scuffs/scratches, etc. better that you'd think.<br /><br />The second trailer was a small utility trailer, I hit that with the wire wheel, and used Petit's Trailercoat. Worked really nice, and I beat the heck outta it.<br /><br />Now if you REALLY want some crazy stuff, Eastwood makes a rust encapsulator that is impervious to that of a nuclear bomb. It's $100/gallon, but won't ever come off.
 

Boomyal

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Aug 16, 2003
Messages
12,072
Re: Trailer painting process

I would have it sandblasted then use two part primers and top coats.<br /><br />You might also want to check on having it galvanized. It may be cheaper than you think. I believe they acid dip the whole thing, then galvanize it.
 

Winger Ed.

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 24, 2004
Messages
649
Re: Trailer painting process

2. apply Naval Jelly (rust neutralizer) <br /> [/QB]
You're doing a better paint job than most trailer builders do.<br /><br />If a automotive paint store is handy, you might ask them for a quart of 'Metal Prep.'.<br /><br />Its basically the active ingrediant that's in Naval Jelly, only much, much more concentrated-- you need to dilute it with water-- easier to rinse off, and alot cheaper.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: Trailer painting process

All I did with mine was sand and paint with enamel. It has held up just fine, and it sits outside fully exposed (boat stays in water for the season).
 

hkellogg

Cadet
Joined
Jul 10, 2004
Messages
12
Re: Trailer painting process

MANY PRODUCTS CLAIM TO STOP RUST; SOME ARE PAINTS, SOME ARE CONVERSION PRODUCTS, SOME ARE RUST TREATMENTS. NONE SEEM TO REALLY STOP RUST PERMANENTLY. WHY IS POR-15 DIFFERENT, AND WHY SHOULD I BELIEVE IT WILL WORK ANY BETTER?<br />Rust is caused by moisture coming in contact with metal, which causes a chemical action called oxidation. All paints provide a measure of protection for a while, but since they are eventually softened and weakened by moisture, it is only a matter of time before moisture penetrates the painted surface and attacks the metal below. All of the so-called rust preventive paints on the market (except POR-15) are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 is strengthened by exposure to moisture. Notice the hardness of the POR-15 coating. It doesn't chip, crack, or peel like ordinary paints do, and its hardness will resist the wear and tear of every day life. <br /><br />Rust conversion products claim to change the chemical nature of rust and convert it to a more stable element that won't rust again. History of the failure of these products is well documented; most simply don't work for more than a few months at best, and they are subject to the same chipping and cracking that occurs with ordinary rust coatings. <br /><br />POR-15 works because it chemically bonds to rusted metal and forms a rock- hard, non-porous coating that won't crack, chip, or peel. It keeps moisture away from metal with a coating that is strengthened by continued exposure to moisture. <br /><br /><br />IS IT BETTER TO BRUSH OR SPRAY POR-15? <br />Most people brush it on, but many spray also. Proper equipment and organic vapor particulate respirators for solvents are essential for spraying. <br /><br /><br />HOW DO I THIN POR-15 IF I WANT TO SPRAY IT? <br />You should use only POR-15 Solvent for thinning. Keep lacquer thinner handy for clean-up. Do not thin POR-15 more than 5%. <br /><br /><br />CAN I PAINT OVER POR-15 WITH OTHER PAINTS? <br />Absolutely. POR-15 will accept all paints, including lacquer-based paints. POR-15 Tie-Coat Primer is the best prime coat to use before topcoating POR-15. Be sure to read thoroughly our directions and tip sheets regarding topcoating before using POR-15. <br /><br /><br />CAN I USE BODY FILLER OR PUTTY WITH POR-15? <br />Yes. First paint both sides of the rusted area with POR-15; then use body filler or putty as soon as the POR-15 is dry to the touch. <br /><br /><br />HOW LONG DOES IT TAKE POR-15 TO DRY? <br />That depends on the ambient humidity (surrounding area). The more humid the area, the faster the dry time, which usually varies from 3 to 6 hours. <br /><br /><br />IS IT DANGEROUS TO GET POR-15 ON MY HANDS? <br />No, but if you do, remove it at once with solvent or lacquer thinner. If POR-15 dries on your skin, nothing will take it off, and you will 'wear' it for 3 or 4 days until natural oils and flaking skin remove it. <br /><br /><br />ARE THE POR-15 VAPORS DANGEROUS TO MY HEALTH? <br />Yes. That's why you must always paint in a well-ventilated area and keep your nose away from the paint container. POR-15 is not dangerous if you follow our simple directions. <br /><br /><br />WHAT IS THE BEST SURFACE ON WHICH TO PAINT POR-15? <br />POR-15 likes rusted surfaces best. Seasoned metal and sandblasted metal are also good. POR-15 does not adhere well to smooth, shiny surfaces, but will adhere well to those surfaces with the proper preparation. <br /><br /><br />WHAT IS THE 'PROPER PREPARATION'? <br />We make a product called 'Metal-Ready'. It's a rust remover that leaves a zinc phosphate coating on base metal, the perfect preprimer for POR-15. NOTE: New steel is coated with a protective oil finish at the mill. This finish must be removed before using POR-15 or Metal-Ready. Clean metal first with POR-15 Marine-Clean, then rinse with water and dry. <br /><br /><br />WHICH POR-15 (BLACK, SILVER, GRAY, CLEAR) SHOULD I USE? <br />Silver contains metal filler and should be used in badly rusted, pitted areas. It will fill in holes better than black or clear. Black is generally used on frames, underside of fenders, etc. because that's the usual color there. Clear renders the smoothest finish and is often used as a preprimer on exterior surfaces; Gray is great on concrete floors, bilges, storage areas, as well as steel. <br /><br /><br />MUST I PAINT OVER POR-15 TO MAKE IT LAST? <br />No, but POR-15 has an ultra-violet sensitivity and must be topcoated if continually exposed to sunlight. Once topcoated, POR-15 will remain effective for many years. <br /><br /><br />WILL THE SUN DESTROY MY POR-15 COATING IF I DON'T TOPCOAT IT? <br />No, your POR-15 protection will remain, but the sun will change its appearance cosmetically. That's why we recommend you topcoat it. <br /><br /><br />CAN I APPLY POR-15 OVER OTHER PAINTS? <br />Yes, but you will lose the important benefits of POR-15. You must remember that ordinary paints are weakened by exposure to moisture. POR-15 can't stop rust if it isn't in direct contact with the base metal. <br /><br /><br />CAN POR-15 BE USED WITH FIBERGLASS? <br />Absolutely. POR-15 is fully compatible with fiberglass and can be used to repair cracks in gelcoat. It will adhere better than polyester resin and has greater strength. Use also with fiberglass cloth to make super-strong surfaces in rusted-out areas. But be aware that POR-15 doesn't contain styrene and thus cannot melt fiberglass cloth like polyester resin does.
 

bluewater19

Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 25, 2003
Messages
505
Re: Trailer painting process

POR-15 works very well.<br />My brother owns a custum bodyshop that does nothing but hotrods and old cars. He uses that on all frame off resto's To coat the frame and if the people are cheap and dont want to properly fix the holes in their trunks with a new pan He welds in the patchs and then coats the trunk. He has been using that stuff for 4 or 5 years and has never had a problem with rust coming back.
 

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: Trailer painting process

I POR-15nd a set of skanky gas tanks on a Scout I had, worked great.
 

outonbizniz2

Seaman
Joined
Feb 5, 2004
Messages
59
Re: Trailer painting process

Thank you. I'm finally beginning to think about what to use for the trailer rebuild part of my project. This sounds perfect.
 

murphy1

Seaman Apprentice
Joined
Jun 18, 2004
Messages
37
Re: Trailer painting process

Por15 works well, but I painted my leaf springs with it and it came off after one season. I guess it isn't flexible at all. Where can you buy this "naval jelly"? I have to redo my suspension components, they're rusty again
 

E. E.

Petty Officer 3rd Class
Joined
Mar 25, 2004
Messages
84
Re: Trailer painting process

Murphy, most home centers, wallyworlds or auto part stores have the naval jelly. What I've seen is usually in about a 16 oz. bottle.
 
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