Hi all,
So I have recently completed a trailer restoration (see photos below - had holes to restored
) - something I found help through this and other forums and hope I can pass on the learning. These are just my findings and suggestions from someone who spent far too long restoring a trailer in far too bad condition!
My mistakes
-Used angle grinder with sanding discs - takes FAR too long. Don't do it. Its not worth the discs, dust, back ache or time.
-Expected too much from rust converter products (read extremely light cosmetic rust thin panel possibly)
-Rust converter as a primer (doesn't work)
-Didn't FULLY scout out damage before starting - as a result restored a trailer I probably shouldn't have (read red rust below)
Red rust showing?
Take a hammer to it and find how many holes/weak areas appear.Don't forget anything - check wobble rollers, mud guards, suspension etc. Strongly consider new trailer - consider new accessories cost (wobble rollers probably rusty, suspension, tyres etc). Sand blasting will tear holes for sure.
Preperation:
Sand blasting is the best way, there WILL be more rust than you expect - even if its just 'light white' rust on galv coating Otherwise, wire brush for tricky areas (angle grinder brushes are faster than drill bits) and sand flap discs (angle grinder) for flat areas. If any areas of red rust are showing, the whole trailer likely needs preparation so get that sand blast if its not beyond economical repair (cost of welding, new accessories etc)
Rust Converters/primers:
Rust converters/removers chemical are surface treatment only (think thin car panel coating etc). They don't work great as a primer although advertised to do so. preparation is king (back to metal) as I found no luck with converters. I think if your not getting back to metal, perhaps use an etch primer and top coat for good adhesion.
Zinc paint:
If you can get back to metal, consider heavy zinc paint (not spray can that's low %). The heavier the tin of paint the better it is as more % zinc (check their MSDS sheets for % of zinc). I found 'industrial' ones take even more prep and special mixing equipment/spray equipment so opted for the best consumer one I could find.
Hot dip zinc approach:
If at all possible strongly consider sand-blast and re hot-dip galv. This may be expensive but trust me far outweighs serious time taken to do by hand and offers better protection. There are some hot-dip rules (google it) e.g. needs holes to allow gasses to escape, can't have much red rust at all as it will flake off and block such holes or contaminate the zinc bath. Any weld repairs are likely to cause the trailer to buckle/ change shape under the heat. Beside if a weld repair was needed this must also be hot-dippable and probably means the trailer is beyond hot-dip time anyway.
Good luck!
So I have recently completed a trailer restoration (see photos below - had holes to restored
) - something I found help through this and other forums and hope I can pass on the learning. These are just my findings and suggestions from someone who spent far too long restoring a trailer in far too bad condition!My mistakes
-Used angle grinder with sanding discs - takes FAR too long. Don't do it. Its not worth the discs, dust, back ache or time.
-Expected too much from rust converter products (read extremely light cosmetic rust thin panel possibly)
-Rust converter as a primer (doesn't work)
-Didn't FULLY scout out damage before starting - as a result restored a trailer I probably shouldn't have (read red rust below)
Red rust showing?
Take a hammer to it and find how many holes/weak areas appear.Don't forget anything - check wobble rollers, mud guards, suspension etc. Strongly consider new trailer - consider new accessories cost (wobble rollers probably rusty, suspension, tyres etc). Sand blasting will tear holes for sure.
Preperation:
Sand blasting is the best way, there WILL be more rust than you expect - even if its just 'light white' rust on galv coating Otherwise, wire brush for tricky areas (angle grinder brushes are faster than drill bits) and sand flap discs (angle grinder) for flat areas. If any areas of red rust are showing, the whole trailer likely needs preparation so get that sand blast if its not beyond economical repair (cost of welding, new accessories etc)
Rust Converters/primers:
Rust converters/removers chemical are surface treatment only (think thin car panel coating etc). They don't work great as a primer although advertised to do so. preparation is king (back to metal) as I found no luck with converters. I think if your not getting back to metal, perhaps use an etch primer and top coat for good adhesion.
Zinc paint:
If you can get back to metal, consider heavy zinc paint (not spray can that's low %). The heavier the tin of paint the better it is as more % zinc (check their MSDS sheets for % of zinc). I found 'industrial' ones take even more prep and special mixing equipment/spray equipment so opted for the best consumer one I could find.
Hot dip zinc approach:
If at all possible strongly consider sand-blast and re hot-dip galv. This may be expensive but trust me far outweighs serious time taken to do by hand and offers better protection. There are some hot-dip rules (google it) e.g. needs holes to allow gasses to escape, can't have much red rust at all as it will flake off and block such holes or contaminate the zinc bath. Any weld repairs are likely to cause the trailer to buckle/ change shape under the heat. Beside if a weld repair was needed this must also be hot-dippable and probably means the trailer is beyond hot-dip time anyway.
Good luck!
