Trailer Rollers

[djpeters]

I have a 1979 single axle Calkins Roller trailer that's under my 22' Starcraft Super Sport (Aluminum hull). All the rollers are probably original. My boat is getting painted next week so I'm starting to think about the trailer now. I would like to replace all the rollers, but have a few questions. All the roller shafts are peened over on the ends. There are (12) 5" dia. by 4" wide wobble rollers, (2) 4.5" dia x 8" long keel rollers and (4) 3" dia x 8" long keel rollers. Not sizes I can find anywhere. The Brakes don't work either but I could easily add electrics to it (fresh water boater). The trailer itself is in pretty good overall shape but needs paint. The rollers are decent, not split in half, but have some cracks.

Anyway, is an old trailer worth fixing up? Would it be a lot of work to retrofit new rollers onto it? (all the rollers are on cradles, everything self adjusts to the hull, nothing is fixed mounted so a small difference in roller diameter probably wouldn't matter). Looking for some help.

Pic of trailer:

 

[Snowfish]

Re: Trailer Rollers

If you liked the way it loaded, un-loaded, and carried your boat, then it's worth fixing up. Appears to be a nice, stout trailer. "Would it be a lot of work to retrofit new rollers onto it?" I guess that depends on definition. A human put the rollers on. A human can replace them. Rest assured that it will take some fiddling.

I see about $500-$600, to make it a brand new trailer, not including a professional paint job. You can do that yourself. But that would include rollers, brakes, bearings, tires, and LED lights (with wires running through the frame again).

For the paint, I'd remove everything down to the frame and coat with Herculiner.

Herculiner Truck Bed Liners

Well worth it considering a comparable New trailer would be just south of $4,000.00

 

[djpeters]

Re: Trailer Rollers

Thanks. I don't mind putting some money into it, its just the rollers look like they will be a pain to switch. I'll have to grind the ends off of every shaft.

For roller type, If I splurge for the Stoltz, being they are harder than rubber, will they be ok to use on an aluminum hull?

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Trailer Rollers

Why would you have to grind the ends off each one?

 

[Frank Acampora]

Re: Trailer Rollers

I would relly like to see a photo of the rollers and peened shaft ends. Usually, wobble rollers are held on with push caps or hog rings.

 

[djpeters]

Re: Trailer Rollers

There are three "swedges", kinda hard to see. Maybe not super hard to do, but there's a dozen or so rollers.

One of the keel rollers, these are swedged all the way around.

 

[bonz_d]

Re: Trailer Rollers

OK, that's a new one on me. Now what? grind and drill each shaft for hog rings?

 

[snowman48047]

Re: Trailer Rollers

A dremmel or other small tipped grinding wheel would make short work of those "swedges". Grind em smooth to get the roller off and when you reinstall you can put the "swedges" back with a hammer and punch/chisel or drill holes and use pins or use caps or maybe new shafts, heck use galvanized bolts and lock wachers? I'm sure there are many options.

 

[Grandad]

Re: Trailer Rollers

dj - have you ever considered moving up to a twin axle trailer? I have a similarly sized boat on a twin axle (3500 lb x 2) trailer. I'm very pleased with the way it rides and balances the load. If you're going to do a lot of work on the existing trailer and maybe need to coordinate work for when the boat is not on it, maybe it would be more practical to put your energies into another (twin axle) trailer that needs some work (if you get it cheap). It could be an independent project that won't interfere with your boat building schedule. Brakes are a good investment, but I think they're a more appropriate investment on a twin axle trailer. Unless someone knows otherwise, I don't think you'd need them on both axles. I have electrics on only one axle and contend that unless my total load exceeds 3,000 lbs, I don't need them at all. - Grandad

 

[cyclops2]

Re: Trailer Rollers

What a butcher job by some company / person.

The rollers NEVER move more than 30 seconds . Drill holes with washers & Cotter Pins.
Grinding enough of the mushroomed shaft & wedges should just take time.......I would get a spray can of Machinists Blueing. Spray it on the wedged end of the outer shaft. That way as you pull the wheel back & forth after each little bit of grinding you will see the scratched bluing. Grind a little on each scratch mark.

If the grinding gets to be a pain ?? borrow a medium grinder with a cutoff disc or a reciprocating metal saw blade tool. C clamp the roller in place. Cut right thru the roller at 0 & 180 degrees apart. The roller will fall off in 2 ....1/2s .

Then grind the shaft to fit the new rollers. Do not worry about flat spots on the shaft.............Your fully adjustable roller arms will adjust to any errors easily.

Piece of cake. You can not screw the job up in any way. ...Enjoy