Trailer Upgrades

[delms82]

Just purchased a used (90s era) Load Rite galvanized single axle bunk trailer to replace my 1971 Holsclaw dual axle roller trailer holding my 19' crestliner tin cuddy.
The Load Rite is heavy duty and had carried a 21 glass boat. My goal was to modernize/safety,reduce trailer maintenance, and
easier launch. I basically follow Lake Erie Walleye from Western to Central Basin, no more than 200 highway miles max when traveling. The trailer ID and specs are stickers that are unreadable.

My questions: The Load Rite has non working drum brake system. Should I disconnect or upgrade brakes for 2,000 lb boat/motor/gear unit?
LR tires are ST225/75/R15 and need replaced. I don't have the glasser weight so was thinking going ST205/75/15 or even a P tire instead of ST.
Currently have 4 wood bunks that need carpet replaced. Should I remove the inner bunks and just upgrade the keel rollers? Also are plastic bunk covers recommended, wood is not soft. Thanks for any and all thoughts/recommendations.

 

[roscoe]

Brakes, depends on your tow vehicle.
Many tow vehicles, although they are rated for 5000# towing capacity, will still say you need trailer brakes if the rig is over 1500# gross weight.

If you replace them, you can do a complete electric brake instal for about $500.

I would stay with ST tires.
Perhaps downsize to 14"

A st205/75/14 load range c will get you 3500# of capacity.
Going down to 14" will lower the boat height and allow easier loading.

Why not leave all 4 bunks in place, if they are adjustable.
If welded in place, then remove the inner 2.

No need for keel rollers in most cases.
Does this trailer have straight crossmember, or cradle style?

 

[fhhuber]

Having a trailer with half a brake system is a bad idea. It needs to either be completely removed or made functional. (preferably make it functional) Having the drums and evidence of a disabled brake system screams: "Sue me please!"

It depends on the tow vehicle's braking ability vs the total combination weight (tow vehicle + trailer + boat + all contents of both) as to if you can get away without restoring the brakes.

Probably for your boat a surge brake system would be adequate. at 2k lbs boat + the weight of the trailer + "stuff" you're looking at 3k to 4 k of load which (with no trailer brakes) would significantly increase stopping distance of your tow vehicle even if its an F-350 or similar.

Even with the trailer having surge brakes its going to take more distance to stop and be more difficult to control in a panic stop than without the trailer. Without trailer brakes a panic stop is pretty sure to end badly.

 

[redneck joe]

Get brakes

 

[Scott Danforth]

You can buy new loaded backing plates for $100, a new master cylinder for $80 and new lines for $50.

You could just need adjustment

 

[delms82]

No Title

Thanks for the comments and suggestions. My primary tow vehicle will be Ram 1500 V6 (6,000 Tow). I have 98 Jeep Cherokee XJ but Ram is much better ride.
The surge brakes seems like a lot of maintenance check items and don't see many on tin boat restore forums. I have not found any leaks. Probably should take coupler and tires off take closer look. What do you think of the plastic bunk covers? http://www.loadrite.com/store/product.php?productid=18094&cat=280&page=1
Thanks, Alan

 

[keith2k455]

I would most certainly convert to disc brakes if I were spending money on brakes again. Drums are fine for that load but discs are so much easier to work with.

 

[momule]

Since your trailer already has brakes installed I would go ahead and get them working. Surge brakes need to be locked out when backing trailer yes? Yes. Your 2000# boat etc weight does not require brakes but they won't hurt and could help in a "fast stop" condition on the highway. As far as the bunks go, if you have 4 leave them all...better support for the hull if nothing else. Recarpet if you wish but not necessary for an unpainted hull. Plastic covers on the bunks can make launching and recovery easier but they also make the boat "slippier" on the trailer and make sure you don't undo the winch strap until the boat is in the water...I've seen several boats slide off trailers on the ramp because of the plastic bunk covers. I would stay with the ST tires and follow the directions on the trailer for PSI. ST tires usually ask for high pressure and there IS a reason for that: The tires have sidewalls that can handle the PSI and are engineered to provide good trailer tracking. Under filled ST tires are subject to higher sidewall temps which can lead to tire failure.