Transom Assembly Woo's

wil7483

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 19, 2007
Messages
377
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

OK fella's, I took everyones advice and decided to install the transom assembly onto the boat to aid in making the installation of the bellows a little easier.

Once I got the assembly bolted on I then lowered the engine into place to check some clearances on a few accessories. Once I had the engine in place I noticed that there was a gap between the plate and the engine coupler. Is this supposed to be like this? On the OMC setup that I removed there was no gap present, the plate and the coupling where nice and snug together.

I took a few pic's to give you an idea of what I mean.

post-2-69856-0706040011__Large_.JPG


Also, how do I use the engine alignment tool? Which end goes into the opening? I tried to place the large stubbly end into the opening but it did not fit. The smaller end went straight in howeve but I suspect I have it backwards. Do I?

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Is this the way it goes or is the other way around?

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Finally, a pic of the tool inserted into the coupling as seen through that "gap" I mentioned earlier.

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Bondo

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Ayuh,.........You've got it Right............
 

wil7483

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Bond-o said:
Ayuh,.........You've got it Right............

So that gap is alright? Also, how do I read the tool?
 

f_inscreenname

Commander
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Aug 23, 2001
Messages
2,591
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

The tool reads by going through the bearing and all the way into the couplers smoothly. Its just a fake drive shaft to make sure the coupler and bearing are in line with each other for the real one.
 

Reel Poor

Vice Admiral
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Jan 29, 2005
Messages
5,522
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

The alignment bar should slide in and out VERY easy. Put a little smear of grease on the end of the bar, slide it in then pullit back out (without turning it) if the front of the motor is to high the spline in the coupler will leave marks on the bottom of the shaft. If the front of the engine is to low the spline will leave marks on the top of the bar.

Something else I noticed in your pics. The lower bolts you installed in the housing need to be changed and the correct ones installed. You should not use stainless below the waterline. the correct parts are listed below.

MER55989A8_thumb.jpg


55989A-8 Bolt Assembly, Anodic Requires 2

55989Q-9 Anodic Head, Bolt Requires 2

12-56085 Washer, Anodic Bolt Requires 2

 

Don S

Honorary Moderator Emeritus
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62,321
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

If you want the engine coupler to last, then you MUST have the engine aligned properly. Put the alignment bar in with grease on it, and it better fit in and pulled back out with 2 fingers (without twisting) The grease will also tell show you by having equal marks all the way around.

One thing you really need is the OEM manual Here is a link to a free online Mercruiser manual. Move your cursor over the cover and index page to find the links to the other sections of the manual.


http://www.boatfix.com/merc/Servmanl/6/6covr3.pdf


PS: With as rusty as that gimbal bearing looks, it has to be junk.
 

wil7483

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Messages
377
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Reel said:

Something else I noticed in your pics. The lower bolts you installed in the housing need to be changed and the correct ones installed. You should not use stainless below the waterline. the correct parts are listed below.

MER55989A8_thumb.jpg


55989A-8 Bolt Assembly, Anodic Requires 2

55989Q-9 Anodic Head, Bolt Requires 2

12-56085 Washer, Anodic Bolt Requires 2


Thanks, I knew I needed those bolts but they are on order and haven't arrived yet. I will change them out once the correct ones arrive. I still have to attach the new exhaust Y-pipe before I permanently attach the engine to the transom plate.

Thanks for all the help guys.
 

wil7483

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Messages
377
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Don said:
PS: With as rusty as that gimbal bearing looks, it has to be junk.

Yeah, the plan is to change the gimbal bearing and all of the bellows. That is actually what precipitated all of this. I was going to attempt it with the transom assembly off of the boat but everyone assures me that it will be easier with it attached to provide stability. Thanks
 

Don S

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Changing the gimbal bearing, the bellows, and anything else on the transom sheild EXCEPT the stearing shaft seals is easier with it ON the boat so you don't have to figure out a way to hold it down to work on it. Even if you just stick it in the OMC hole with a couple of nuts to keep it from moving.
Be sure to put a new seal around the transom shield. Trust me, that seal is round and not a flat 3/4" wide piece of rubber. It's like a big oring.
 

wil7483

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Don said:
Be sure to put a new seal around the transom shield. Trust me, that seal is round and not a flat 3/4" wide piece of rubber. It's like a big oring.

Me and ebasicpower.com have become 1st name basis friends. I have a new seal for it for when I am ready to permanently install everything. I do have a question though. Is the O-ring all that I need to seal the opening or will I also need to apply any type of sealant/silicone to the assembly also?

This is my 1st Mercruiser setup so I am green about the entire process. I have always had some some of OMC system in the past. Stringer and Cobra's.
 

Don S

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

If your transom is flat and solid, you shouldn/t need any type of sealant. Many use it, but it's not necessary.
The boat manufactures never use it.

Be sure to look at the link for the manual I gave you earlier. If you go buy the paper version, it will be identical to the online one I linked you to.
 

dazid1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 13, 2006
Messages
89
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Don said:
If your transom is flat and solid, you shouldn/t need any type of sealant. Many use it, but it's not necessary.
The boat manufactures never use it.

Be sure to look at the link for the manual I gave you earlier. If you go buy the paper version, it will be identical to the online one I linked you to.
 

dazid1

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Sep 13, 2006
Messages
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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Just caught up with this thread, thoes bolts that are listed what do they screw into? are they standard nuts or are they a special, I don't seem to have any room to put a nut on underneath!!
 

Bondo

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

The Aluminum Bolts push thru from the Outside,...
And have Aluminm Nuts on the Inside.....

The Acorn Anoides screw on to the Outside,......
 

wil7483

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Jan 19, 2007
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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

I have finally tore the transom assembly apart and started the replacement process of the bellows, shift cable, and gimbal bearing.

I have a few questions. What is the name of the tool that I need to pull the bearing? Can it be borrowed like at AutoZone or is it special to boats and needs to be purchased? Also, what do I need to put the new one in? I have 2 manuals and the Mercruiser online manual to help guide me but would still like some input from real people with experiance in this area.

I am in the process of cleaning all the surfaces on the gimbal and bellhousing and will then install the bellows and so forth. Any other advice or tips you might have will be appreciated as well.

Thanks again.

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Bondo

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Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

What is the name of the tool that I need to pull the bearing? Can it be borrowed like at AutoZone

That would be a Slide-Hammer,...... And Slide-Hammers Are quite common at Tool Rental Shops....

Or,....
With a piece of Threaded Rod, An Old Sledge Hammerhead,+ a couple of Nuts,+ Washers,....
You can Build 1.......

For Installing the New Bearing,.........
They make a Tool that Fits the face of the Bearing,.. Perfectly to get a good Square driving force against it........
Or,.......
With the Proper Sized block of Hardwood,+ a BFH along with abit of Finises is All that's really needed......;)
 

burroak

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Mar 29, 2007
Messages
651
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Either there is a whole lot more to be done,or they detest you taking it apart and then bring in your own parts.We are changing our labor rate this year,and will also have a seperate (higher) rate for those who bring in their own parts.Our rate (operating cost) considers the profit we make on parts.

Here in fresh water land,I'd think 4 to 5 hours enough time.Florida and salt maybe a different factor.

DHP

I saw a labor schedule in a auto repair shop the other day:

$68 per hour
$88 per hour if you watch
$108 per hour if you want to help
$128 per hour if you have already started to work on it

I saw the humor in it, but the longer I thought about it the more I saw the wisdom of it.
 

wil7483

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jan 19, 2007
Messages
377
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Yeah, real cute. But seriously, why would anyone pay $99.99 for a part that they can buy themselves for $49.99. A 20-30% mark up is reasonable but a 100% mark up is ridiculous and that is why people buy their own parts.
 

Bt Doctur

Supreme Mariner
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Aug 29, 2004
Messages
19,343
Re: Transom Assembly Woo's

Someone else can double check me but i think the mounting bolt is assembled wrong looking at the pic.. Isn`t it spacer,washer, bolt?
 
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