Transom drains....maybe no?

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 21, 2009
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338
While I'm still thinking about how I want to redesign my splashwell on an older 72 Reinell bowrider, I had an idea while sipping a shot of vodka and staring at the thing. I have the plywood mounted in the transom, the stringers in, and as I removed the entire splashwell...I am now thinking of a better idea. Someone tell me this is not a new idea, because I can't believe I haven't been able to find it on the forum. Why not run the splashwell drains SIDEWAYS through to the hull, thereby removing two more holes in the transom? To allow for flex, perhaps brass threaded fittings, connected between splashwell and hull with flexible hose, similar to a bilge pump connection? I'm at that phase where you sit and stare at the concept being built, and this hit me...as I dread putting any holes in the new transom. I bounced this off a commercial fisherman guy I know who's done many transoms on pleasure boats, and the brass was his contribution....but he thinks it's a very good idea. Anyone else try that here?????

On a similar subject, this friend put no bilge drain through the transom on his last 2 he built, relying on a bilge pump if ever needed. (Same concept, fewer holes through transom.) I'm leaning towards this as well. Might as well go all out, and mount the fish finder/transducer into th einside of the hull, and glass it in....
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
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Oct 18, 2007
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12,932
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

hi robert.....welcome to i boats. :)

yup......sipping a cool drink and thinking is very dangerous.....:D

some idiot here did that with a beer and ending cutting his hull in half.....lol

the reason for draining out the back....is just K.I.S.S.....but make sure you seal it correctly....if you do it wont be a worry !......

you are totally correct in your thinking about "one more hole in the transom"
most rot starts because someone didnt seal a transducer (or other) screw hole properly.

i just did a transom that started all the rot with just that thing.

now.....the transducer in the hull......i havent tryed it yet....but i did read here that a guy but his in the bilge.....abd then threw a cup of water in the bilge.....it worked great for him....but results are bound to vary.!

cheers
oops
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

I think when I'm done, the only holes in my transom will be the lower outboard bolts. I considered designing the splashwell so these would be above the splashwell, to keep a better eye on them...but the laws of physics and engineering made me scrap that idea. I'll need the reinforcement of the splashwell to be right between the upper and lower mounting bolts. (We're talking about mounting a Force 150 HP on there.....) Old transom rotted starting at the factory drain tube, as well as poorly maintained/not sealed well engine bolts by previous owner. Also a few unknown screw holes in the transom. Wet foam didn't help, particularly with nowhere for the water to pass to the bilge through the stringers. Throw in the fact the stringers were only glassed 3 inches up on a 2x6....you can imagine the chunks of trash I was digging out. It wouldn't be hard to do it better than Reinell did in 1972!
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

early boat builders did what ever they could to "get the boat together at a cost they could afford"......so, what we know know to be incorrect procedures.....were proven to hold out for quite a few years.......just think of how long it will last when you are done!.

keep the updates comin...!

cheers
oops
 

Mark42

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Oct 8, 2003
Messages
9,334
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Sounds like a great idea to me.

My concerns would be if tubing is involved, that proper screening is applied to keep the tubes from clogging. And use the larger 1.5" fittings and hose to help keep drain flow swift.

Be a trend setter! Nothing ventured, nothing gained. I say go for it.
 

navis

Seaman
Joined
Oct 18, 2008
Messages
68
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

His other point, not having a bilge drain through the transom, what do you all think about this? We were thinking about excluding it on our boat too, when we start putting in the new transom (the 29' carter).
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Screening....excellent idea. Thank you!
 

Mark42

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Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Screening....excellent idea. Thank you!

BTW, Stainless screen is hard to find, unless you go to the local Shop Rite or A&P food store. Look for the common sink strainers that just drop in the drain. They are often stainless steel screen with a stainless ring. For $2 or $3 it might be a good source of screen. Just an idea I had while staring at a clog in my kitchen sink last night...... :D
 

No Clew?

Cadet
Joined
Apr 17, 2009
Messages
10
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Hey Robert- Any luck with the drain through the side of the boat with the tubing? The current motor mount on my boat is blocking the drain and i am exploring my options before drilling more holes in the transom.
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

I'm slowly working on it now....as I'm recovering from elbow surgery and have one arm in a cast. The distance between the side of my splashwell and the hull is 8 inches. I'm going with a piece of 2 inch outside diameter pvc pipe fiberglassed in. One on each side of the splashwell. I redesigned my splashwell so the lowest part is not right at the transom, but about 7 inches from the transom. (Only about a quarter inch lower, not noticeable, but enough to help all water drain.) I wanted to be far enough from the corner where the hull meets the transom, so as not to weaken anything. When I was looking at the distance involved, I realized it would be pointless to use a hose to make the connection, due to space to work in, unless I had about 12 inches minimum to travel. I am also making a small brace, glassed onto the top of the pipe and also attaching to the splashwell and hull, to effectively add even more support to the splashwell. (An added side benefit.)

I've skipped the bilge drain hole as well, opting to just use the bilge pump if/when necessary. This will leave me only the motor mounts through the transom, with the holes drilled oversize, filled with epoxy and milled fibers, then redrilled the correct size.

I do have a transducer for my depth finder/fishfinder, mounted in the bottom 1 inch of the transom...an area I left void of wood, filled with the epoxy mix above, specifically for this purpose.

I can say I am rather pleased with this layout, now that I've committed to it. I'm really wondering why the manufacturers still bother putting the drains through a wood cored tansom still! I considered doing it through the transom, using the same method as the engine mount bolts.....drill oversize, epoxy, re-drill....but I'm just not too excited about it, knowing water will always be splashing through. At least the engine mount bolts will also be sealed with 3M 5200, and not always have water passing through.

One more note: I have raised my transom from a 20" to a 25", to accommodate a new motor....and this makes the whole conversion much easier than it would normally. My splashwell is also higher than before, making the side drains much more of a possibility. As I now look things over, it appears my lower engine mount bolts will be well above the water as well, so it may look like I'll keep this boat for many years:)
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Feb 21, 2009
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338
Bed liner for splashwell????

Bed liner for splashwell????

I have a predicament here. I had elbow surgery recently, still in a cast. Prior to surgery, I finished 90% of my splashwell and transom. The problem is, I am in no shape to do the finishing sanding work in the splashwell. The boat is not a collectable...a 1972 Reinell trihull bowrider...it is what it is...a comfortable boat to fish the lakes & rivers here in Oregon. Anyway, I just saw a boat with bedlinet coating the splashwell. The owner told me he did it for 2 reasons. #1, he always tosses a few things in there such as a fish net, tools, bait containers, etc and the cables rubbed the paint anyway. More functional for him. #2, was that he didn't know how to sand and prep for paint and couldn't afford the shops price.

It did look good. I don't want to do this out of impatience and then regret it later. Anyone see any downside to this, other than it woul dbe hell to remove if ever desired? I'm thinking I could get in the water weeks earlier, as I wouldn't be waiting for the elbow to heal to start sanding. Not worried about the boats value. I have more into it than it'll ever be worth. The whole boat is an 'experiment', with the side draining splashwell. I actually think it might save some big bucks as well, both in time and epoxy.
 

Mark42

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Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Splashwells often get crappy looking. Oil, rubber marks, etc. I don't think it would look bad.

I would go ahead and put in a transom drain. That is one thing you will really miss if the boat gets water in it, and you have no battery around. Do like with the engine mounts and seal the drain hole with epoxy. I really think you should.
 

Bondo

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Apr 17, 2002
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Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

I would go ahead and put in a transom drain. That is one thing you will really miss if the boat gets water in it, and you have no battery around.

Ayuh,.... Exactly..... ;)

And what about the off season, sitting on the wagon,..??
 

ondarvr

Supreme Mariner
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Apr 6, 2005
Messages
11,527
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

The builders don't do it because of the time and money involved, plus I don't think it would be the best way to do it. Flex pipe may work, but a rigid connection in the side wall of the hull to the splash well may break loose, there?s a big difference in flex between the two. If I wanted it to last forever I?d just do a better job in the normal fashion. New idea?s are good though.
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Bilge drain....I'm confident most boats sink due to the plug being left out. Also, many transoms destroyed by a nicely sealed when built bilge drain, but over time it starts leaking. I've redone the entire inside of the hull with epoxy...this boat will not leak :) If I get a huge wave over the bow or stern and my battery is dead? I don't get waves big enough on the inland lakes, but maybe from a passing ship on the Columbia River. I run 2 batteries, however, and again I'm thinking the better option is to use the bilge pumps for any water. (I have 2.)

Splashwell drains....too late, I went with the drains through the side of the hull. Angled towards the stern, as well. As for flex, I beefed up this hull and transom for a 150 HP outboard, and I am aiming for no flex at all. This may create as yet unforeseen issues, however. (Stress cracks somewhere?) This has turned into a 'test boat'.....it is a cheap, disposable toy, nice for fishing from.....and a good platform to try some new things on.

I'm aiming for "sea trials" sometime in August. I'll have one person with me, who can't wait....my neighbor, a lawyer who is an avid boat guy :) He knows the risks, and I told him he'll have to sign a waiver :) I trailered the boat over to a boat shop a couple miles away yesterday, and had one of their guys inspect the work on the transom, knee braces, etc. He said he'd feel good about 2 Merc 115's on that transom...and a single 150 would be no problem....a big relief to hear that! He liked the side draining splashwell as well. He felt it would work well on a 25 inch transom, but probably not on a 20 inch or under.

We'll see how this thing progresses.....I am getting idea's for my upcoming next project, and we'll see how the idea's come out after some real world testing.
 

Robert D

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 21, 2009
Messages
338
Re: Transom drains....maybe no?

Ah...one more note. The boat lives in a heated garage all year, on a trailer. Never see's the bad weather. That eliminates probably 90% of all dry rot issues I suspect....
 
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