sam am I
Commander
- Joined
- Jun 26, 2013
- Messages
- 2,169
I had some bit of transom leaking happening over last season occurring while sitting in a slip, noticed boat was starting to list slightly to port sitting in the slip. So, this past fall did the "thud" test after pulling the boat out.....sounded pretty dense in area's. Made some test holes, drove a fine gauge poker half to perhaps an inch into some of the notable wet areas where i was starting to remove hardware. The shavings from various test drill areas were definitely damp. So I pulled all the hardware out of the transom and being a cheap bastard, I made this thing and let it run all winter 24/7. I now have "ringing" wood everywhere............Sanding in the holes is even producing dusty saw dust. Fixed? Rot stopped? It sorta seems that way but water wasn't leaking out holes either......However, the poker test is perfect now, goes in like maybe a 1/16 in all area's, it's very very dry now. Just thought I'd share, perhaps might work for someone else...........




It has six light sockets mounted in a sorta helical 360 degree rotated arrangement lining up the length of a inner 6" pipe insulted with a outer 7" pipe. I loaded it with 6-200 Watt incandescent bulbs. It's wired internally with high temp flame proof wiring and sockets. There is three thermal cutoffs wired in series/redundant and hard mounted inside to the inner body at fore, mid and aft sections so that if any one of the three opens, it shuts it all off. The thermals are factory set to open above 120F(fan stops, rat, blockage, etc). An adjustable thermostat (50-150F I think) on a pendent like 15' cord runs out the front and down through the dryer pipe ducting that shuts off the lights when it reaches the desired/set temp. You pre-adjust the thermostat to the temp you want(I have it at 100) and just drop the thermostat down inside in the bilge. Connect up the duct and switch it on. I used a inline duct booster fan with a beefed up motor to push the air....lots of warm air!! I also put a speed control on the fan to tweek around and fine tune air flow verses internal/bilge temps.
...........I call it a "Spumgardner 1200"




It has six light sockets mounted in a sorta helical 360 degree rotated arrangement lining up the length of a inner 6" pipe insulted with a outer 7" pipe. I loaded it with 6-200 Watt incandescent bulbs. It's wired internally with high temp flame proof wiring and sockets. There is three thermal cutoffs wired in series/redundant and hard mounted inside to the inner body at fore, mid and aft sections so that if any one of the three opens, it shuts it all off. The thermals are factory set to open above 120F(fan stops, rat, blockage, etc). An adjustable thermostat (50-150F I think) on a pendent like 15' cord runs out the front and down through the dryer pipe ducting that shuts off the lights when it reaches the desired/set temp. You pre-adjust the thermostat to the temp you want(I have it at 100) and just drop the thermostat down inside in the bilge. Connect up the duct and switch it on. I used a inline duct booster fan with a beefed up motor to push the air....lots of warm air!! I also put a speed control on the fan to tweek around and fine tune air flow verses internal/bilge temps.
...........I call it a "Spumgardner 1200"
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