transom help

Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
25
The transom on my 1980 bass boat is all rotted out, so i figured i would go the seacast way, so i got all the wood out today and am left w/ the two skins, but i ran into a problem

I included pictures of how my transom looks, the shaded black is all the plywood,

but in the process of removing the wood i cut into the "v" lines (red lines)they were only there w/ a very thing layer of glass, i mean very thin, so now if i pour the seacast in its going to fill in everything in the back and thats not what i want

so can i reconstruct the thin fiberglass base w/ 2x1 wood and pour the seacast ontop of it? thats the only way i think it can be fixed

transomay6.png
 

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: transom help

If you can seal it up with duct tape or something that would work also.
The Seacast starts to cook and harden within about 45 minutes or so after you pour it..
The wood will be bonded in there but that may work also...
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: transom help

They say Seacast is stronger than wood so why wouldn't you want to fill the entire transom? I don't think weight would be a problem. Just curious.
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
25
Re: transom help

im scared that the passages on the bottom corners may lead all the way up to the front of the boat, because i cant get in there to see whats goin on
 

jddenham

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Aug 8, 2006
Messages
393
Re: transom help

Newspaper might work better. Not crumpled up but folded a time or two and layed in the bottom.
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: transom help

jd has a wonderful idea. Is there any way you can 'snake' something through there and see where it goes?
 

Gary H NC

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Dec 1, 2005
Messages
8,972
Re: transom help

Order some extra woven roving and fill the voids with it.The seacast will soak in and harden..plus it will give it extra strength..
 

gcboat

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
May 29, 2007
Messages
1,822
Re: transom help

From what I can see in the pic are you worried about the two holes at the bottom of the transom? Yes, they do appear to be drain holes and no, I wouldn't make a complete pour without finding a way to keep them open. I do think JD's idea was great ( again ) but if you're concerned about the paper then find some PVC tubing that will slide into those drains. Just push em' through until you can see them on the other side of the transom. That will make a "tube" so the Seacast won't fill that area. You'll probably need to buy some mold release wax and coat them per mfg's instructions. Make sure they are long enough so both sides protrude about three inches or so. Just enough so you can get a good grip on them to remove. I would probably make my pour first and then push the tubes through the wet poly, this would make sure it ran to the bottom and no void occured under the pipe. These are just ideas, not from any experience with your particular problem. However I can recommend the Seacast. If their directions are followed you'll have one strong transom.
 
Joined
Jun 4, 2007
Messages
25
Re: transom help

alrite today i went out and bought some fiberglass, just glassed in 2 new layers on the sides and im ready to pour now!
 

Polonez

Recruit
Joined
Jun 24, 2007
Messages
1
Re: transom help

Ive been glassing for years and the best way to pour the stuff without going everywhere is to use either wax paper or Aluminum foil. I like using aluminum foil because you can shape it to exactly the way you want the shape to be and be more precise.
 
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