Transom Problem

[Bulbash]

Hello everyone!!

This spring I purchased 1989 Bayliner Capri 1750 bowrider with the 2.3 OMC. Previous owner did a recent rebuild on the engine so it runs excellent and very fuel efficient etc... However, the floors had some rot especially on top of the ski locker and towards the bow. I think this happened due to improper storage and faulty cover. I replaced all deck by cutting all rotted area's, I also cored all stringers and found that they are dry inside as well as foam on the sides was in ok condition even on the bottom it was dry. So, last night as I was winterizing I noticed that the speedometer sensor on the transom was loose, I tried to tighten the screws, but they would spin through and it seems that inside it all black mushy stuff. I drilled a few test holes in the transom and pass fiberglass it all black wet stuff for an 1" and pass that there is a hard plywood or drive plate... What is the best option now? Should I prepare for transom repair? Or should I use for a few more seasons ( engine mounting locations look perfect and dry inside). Also What is the price of transom repair? Is there any way I can epoxy inject it to prolong its life as it is not completely rotten yet?

Thank you guys

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Transom Problem

There are as many ways to repair your transom as there are transoms. I would not run the boat "a few more seasons" without addressing your issue but thats just me. Cost depends on what you do. Search on here for many ways to repair, injection is one of them but if the wood is wet it might not be the best for your situation. IMHO, PREPARE FOR TRANSOM REPAIR!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom Problem

I agree ^^^!! No "Band Aids" for wet transoms. Depending on the type of transom you have it could be an easy or complicated repair. Post some pics so we can "See" what you see. You WILL get plenty of helpful advice once the pics are posted. Photobucket is the best way to post your pics. Just use the IMG code and paste it in your post.

http://forums.iboats.com/showthread.php?t=581259&p=4000055#post4000055

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

I will post some pictures later on today as I get home from work. Today I called a few people about transom repair and got a few quotes over the phone. Basically everyone says $700 to $1500 if I pull the engine & drive, or $1200 to $1800 if they do everything. Does it sound reasonable. All these people promised new fiber-glassed, wood etc... However according to some people on these forum they spent over $1000 only on materials...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom Problem

Again It all depends on the style of transom and what they find when it comes apart. There could be more rot than just the transom. IF (its just the transom and nothing else) AND (your structure allows access to the transom with out major invasion to the deck and other structures requiring additional glassing and rebuilding), then Somewhere around $2000 should be reasonable for a 18' boat especially if the motor and outdrive is already pulled and they don't have to reinstall. Materials should only be around $500 to $800 dollars. Just my 2?!!! The PRO's may disagree!!! They do it everyday to make a living. I don't!!!

 

[Georgesalmon]

Re: Transom Problem

Sounds like you got some resonable quotes. I'm sure they will need to see it AFTER the engine is out for a good one though. This is something you can do yourself by following some of the threads and help you can get here. Then again ask yourself, do I have a place to work? Do I have the tools? Do I have time? I did ours from bare hull up last winter, but I'm retired and have a large heated garage, and way more time than money, for me to do it myself was an easy decision. I also worked in the boat building business coast to coast from 1975 until I retired. My son owns a boat manufacturing company so he supplied the materials at OEM cost and loaned some tools, he also has four kids so I supply the work/time. Thats how we maintain/repair all four of our family boats. As wood said, if you can get it replaced and everything else is OK two grand sounds very good to me.

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

Sounds like you got some resonable quotes. I'm sure they will need to see it AFTER the engine is out for a good one though. This is something you can do yourself by following some of the threads and help you can get here. Then again ask yourself, do I have a place to work? Do I have the tools? Do I have time? I did ours from bare hull up last winter, but I'm retired and have a large heated garage, and way more time than money, for me to do it myself was an easy decision. I also worked in the boat building business coast to coast from 1975 until I retired. My son owns a boat manufacturing company so he supplied the materials at OEM cost and loaned some tools, he also has four kids so I supply the work/time. Thats how we maintain/repair all four of our family boats. As wood said, if you can get it replaced and everything else is OK two grand sounds very good to me.

Yeah thats the questions I'm asking myself... I'm good with mechanical stuff, however I'm terrible with wood, glue's etc...

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

View attachment 171602Here is a few pictures of what I see. Another question is; if I will be rebuilding my transom would it be possible to ad a sun deck to my boat?

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

All the ply around gas tank is rotted, stringers are still good and dry inside as well as engine mounts. Transom looks OK from inside and does not sound hollow, however when I drilled a small hole on top of the main drain it seems that it all rotten there. Another suggestion I got from one of the marine mechanic: he told me that I should stand on the out-drive and try to bounce a bit and get another person to see if the transom will flex, if it wont than I should be OK for now if it will flex he would not suggest to put this boat in the water. By the way I'm around 200lb.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom Problem

I'd drill a few more holes in various places and see what the shavings tell you. If it IS isolated to just around the drain tube you could just repair that area and call it good.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Transom Problem

All the ply around gas tank is rotted, stringers are still good and dry inside as well as engine mounts. Transom looks OK from inside and does not sound hollow, however when I drilled a small hole on top of the main drain it seems that it all rotten there. Another suggestion I got from one of the marine mechanic: he told me that I should stand on the out-drive and try to bounce a bit and get another person to see if the transom will flex, if it wont than I should be OK for now if it will flex he would not suggest to put this boat in the water. By the way I'm around 200lb.

I don't know how much stock I'd put in the 'bounce on the outdrive' approach. My outdrive felt solid as a rock, but the transom was seriously rotted. I suppose if the outdrive bounces, you KNOW you have problems, but it if doesn't flex, you may or may not have problems...

Jim

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

I'd drill a few more holes in various places and see what the shavings tell you. If it IS isolated to just around the drain tube you could just repair that area and call it good.

But even for isolated repair I would need to pull the engine. I would guess if I will get the engine out it would make sense to re&re transom completely

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

I don't know how much stock I'd put in the 'bounce on the outdrive' approach. My outdrive felt solid as a rock, but the transom was seriously rotted. I suppose if the outdrive bounces, you KNOW you have problems, but it if doesn't flex, you may or may not have problems...

Jim

My take on it is if it feels solid and does not flex, but I got a few rotten spots, why run ahead of the train and do repairs, maybe I should wait until it develops a flex and then fix it. I would assume that 90% of the boats that are over 15 years old have some rot developed in them, and most of the owners does not realize it until it leaks or cracks...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom Problem

But even for isolated repair I would need to pull the engine. I would guess if I will get the engine out it would make sense to re&re transom completely

Not necessarily. If, Big If, the only area that's wet is isolated within a few inches of the drain tube you could easily patch, repair and replace the drain tube and not have to remove the motor or anything. However if the wetness and or rot extends further out and up then, yes you should to a full replacement which would require you to remove the motor.

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

Not necessarily. If, Big If, the only area that's wet is isolated within a few inches of the drain tube you could easily patch, repair and replace the drain tube and not have to remove the motor or anything. However if the wetness and or rot extends further out and up then, yes you should to a full replacement which would require you to remove the motor.

If you look at my pictures, I know for the fact that there is rot where the spedometer attached, on the other side where depth finder attached and in the middle where hole is drilled...

 

[Bulbash]

Re: Transom Problem

Also when I'm sounding all in white is sound without hollow sound as soom as you pass the molding and sound the blue part of transom it sounds all hollow...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom Problem

Sounding tells you nothing you have to drill and check the shavings.

 

[JASinIL2006]

Re: Transom Problem

I agree with Wood. My drive didn't flex and the transom sounded fine when rapped with a rubber mallet. When the entire transom was exposed, though, wood within a couple of inches of the keyhole could be removed with my fingers or a spoon. Other wood, near the base of the transom, was soaked and much was rotted or on its way. I was amazed at how much the wood was compromised given how solid it felt and sounded. I don't even want to think what might happened had the transom catastrophically failed while we were out on the water.

Jim

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Transom Problem

But even for isolated repair I would need to pull the engine. I would guess if I will get the engine out it would make sense to re&re transom completely

If the repairs are isolated then you could do them on the outside.

Percussion testing is actually a very good indicator of delamination or bad core. Core drilling is normally done after a percussion tests bad or a high reading on a moisture meter to determine the State of the wood.

Your trans is a bit different then most flat trans' out there.

Basically you need to determine the state of your transom and other support structures tying to it.

I think 700 bucks is Cheap .. way too cheap for a full on trans job. 1400 bucks .. depends on what they find in the way of more problems.

Seen it before where they say one price .. next thing you know your into it for 2-3 times that after its all said and done.

Best bet is to Moisture meter the trans to give you an idea of what you have and where its coming from.

Personally, I think water is coming from above .. like the rubrail.

YD.