Transom Question

Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
How do you tell if the transom is fatigued or needs repair. I have a 1989 fiberglass Procraft with a 100 Evinrude. When I grab the skeg and move it up and down the transom moves ever so slightly. Its not a large amount of flex, but I can see it nonetheless.

So how much flex is acceptable. Is there an easy way to check for fatigue? I don't really want to drill any holes.

Thanks guys.

Edit: a little more info... I just bought this boat from a dealership. I checked the transom there and thought it looked fine. Upon further inspection I did notice a very slight amount of flex. When I bought the boat it did not come with a transom save, not sure if the previous owner used one or not. There are no visible cracks and the paint is in near mint condition.
 

Borchik

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Aug 4, 2010
Messages
106
Re: Transom Question

Basically transoms should not flex at all so it may be starting to get soft...i would use it a few times and see if you notice any cracks or leaks starting and then go from there.
 

Doernuth

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Jul 6, 2010
Messages
332
Re: Transom Question

I don't like the idea either, but you may want to suck it up and drill some holes.
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

Can I get by with just a real small hole, something that would be easy to patch up? Where would be the best spot to drill?

I just tapped on it gently with a hammer and it sounds solid, it made the same noise all the way across. But to be honest I'm not expert :rolleyes: (shocking, I know).

Its not so much flexing as it is more or less just moving the transom slightly. The engine is pretty heavy, and trimmed all the way up it offers the most leverage. Is it possible that even a completely solid transom would flex if enough leverage was applied?

Edit: Furthermore, does anyone recomend a transom saver?
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Transom Question

Transom Savers??? NO!!! How much Flex??? NONE!!! There was NO Flex in it when it was New. How to find out if your transom is wet and rotting??
Use a 3/8 inch drill bit. Put some masking tape on it at a depth of about 3/4 of an inch, get inside of the boat and down low on the transom by the drain hole drill into the transom at various locations NO deeper than the tape. If you get Light Tan DRY shavings then you are good to go. If you get dark brown WET shavings or dry powdery shavings then your transom needs to be replaced. What happens if you don't replace it and keep using it like it is?? Well the motor exerts tremendous torque and pressures on the back of the boat and it can even break the back of the boat to the extent to cause catastophic failure and sink the boat. SAFETY should be your #1 concern. If everything checks out OK you can use 3M 5200 Sealant (Ace Hardware, Lowe's, Home Depot) to seal the hole afterward. If you need to replace the transom do a search on the Forum for Transom Replacement and you will find a LOT of help on the subject.

I'm just sayin...:D
 

Yacht Dr.

Vice Admiral
Joined
Feb 26, 2005
Messages
5,581
Re: Transom Question

Hello Former..

I would recommend R&R the Drain plug fitting..

Remove your drain plug fitting and inspect with a dental pic or small screwdriver to see if the wood is ok at that location ( I would HIGHLY recommend Drain plug rebed for ANY used boat buyers out there ).

Your "sounding" of the trans is a good idea .. and its not really the "constant sound" as it is the "inconstant sound" your looking for. hard to explain..

I would take the boat to the dealer you got it from and ask for more explanations on your worrys..and also ask them to moisture meter ( with you there ! ).

If your trans is starting to fail then hopefully you didnt sign an as is whereis contract :) ..

YD.
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

When I torque up and down on the skeg it flexes about 1/16th or 1/8th an inch. We're not talking about a huge amount here, just enough where it catches your eye and makes ya look twice.

All the rest of the wood in the boat is pretty solid which would surprise me if just the transom is bad.
 

16'Starcraft_StoneyCreek

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Sep 8, 2009
Messages
136
Re: Transom Question

I'd replace it with 1/8" movement. All you need is that 1/8th to move to 1/4" and then a sudden jolt, crack and brake and now you are an anchor.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Transom Question

Dr Wood here,

Mr former,

I have found a little CANCER on your backside. Its not TOO bad but it IS MALIGNANT! And it is noticable. But it is just a LITTLE CANCER. Don't Worry TOO MUCH about it.
IT's ONLY CANCER!

I'm just sayin...:D
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

haha nice. Thanks for all the replies guys, much appreciated. I took it back to the marina and they looked at it and said I was just being paranoid (which I'm sure every boat-buyer is). Anyways they said its nothing to worry about, just throw on a transom saver.

He said that where the transom is moving is right where the engine bolts on. But that if I lifted the skeg and the bottom of the transom moved then we'd have problems.

I guess for now I'll run it as is....maybe see where we are in a year.

Thanks again guys, its great to have a site like this where strangers can help a poor fellow like me out!!
 

109jb

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 15, 2008
Messages
1,590
Re: Transom Question

If you are going to drill to check the transom, do it from the inside down low in the bilge area and don't drill through. As far as the transom moving at the top where the engine is mounted being OK, not as far as I am concerned.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Transom Question

It's obvious you're gunna do what you're gunna do and it does'nt matter what any of us say here. But...

Yeah, I would believe a DEALER TOO! SURE, I WOULD! Like I Said It's Just a Little spot of CANCER. Let's check it in a Year and see how yer doin. Then I can say well heck you had it on the Lake for a year and all that water caused the damage, it wasn't like that when you bought it from me so NOW yer gunna have to PAY for it. SURE go ahead its JUST FINE!!!! I wonder why my transom DOES NOT HAVE ANY FLEX AT ALL and my boat is 50 YEARS OLD. Another thing, If the TRANSOM is OK then Why does it need a TRANSOM SAVER. A SAVER for WHAT??? It's OK remember!!!! If the Flexing is OK then leave it alone and go Boating. If Flexing is NOT OK then FIX IT!!! Tell you What Have him take you over to a NEW BOAT and SHOW You how the transom on it FLEXES. THEN and ONLY THEN WILL I BELIEVE HIM.

I'm just sayin...:D
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

I understand what everyone here is saying. On the other hand I don't have many options, its not like they're just going to take my boat back, refund my money, or repair it free of charge. I don't think repairing it myself is necessarily an option either, I'd rather pay big bucks to have it done right than just hobble somethin' together y'know.

Is there any way I can just reniforce the transom from the inside, perhaps using some sort of metal plate or something? Just a thought.

As for transom savers, I've noticed nearly all new boats come with them. When trailering, the lower unit bounces up and down which puts stress on the transom. The saver transfers that to the trailer. Seems like a good idea to me.
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Transom Question

If you mean a "Trasport Bar" for the motor to use so the motor does not bounce up and down during transport as a "Transom Saver" then ABSOLUTELY every one that owns an Outboard boat should have and USE one. But, Using an External Plate of some kind to Re-Enforce a Weak transom during the normal operation of the boat on the water is NOT a SAFE practice and should NOT be done. If the transom has FLEX in it, it should be repaired. A 100 hp motor puts a lot of torque on the transom by itself. Now add pulling a tube, or a skier and tight turns and that flexing is increased 100 fold. You are asking for a catasrophe.

You can very easily check the transom. Take a 3/8" drill, get on the inside of the boat. Get down by the Drain hole. Drill a few 3/8" holes about 3/4" deep into the transom.

DO NOT drill all the way thru the transom!!!

If you get Light Tan DRY shavings then You're OK, If you get Dark Brown WET shaving then your Transom is WET and ROTTING on the inside and it NEEDS to be replaced. I am betting on the latter. You can fill the holes with 3M 5200 filler. Get it @ Lowe's.

Again, SAFETY should be #1.

I'm just sayin...:D
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

Alright, fair enough. I think I'll take your advice and try drilling a couple test holes tomorrow.

Now here's a hypothetical for ya. What if I drill a few holes and I get dry hard shavings? One would think that transom flex would mean it is rotten, but what if the wood is good?

Oh and yes, thats exactly what I mean by transom saver, a "motor support". Thought it was the same thing:redface:
 

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Dec 29, 2009
Messages
25,929
Re: Transom Question

If you get Dry shavings and have 1/4" of flex in the transom then I'm gunna request a VIDEO from ya!!!!:confused: In your estimation How THICK is your Transom??? if it is 1 1/2" of more then a 100 hp motor should NOT cause it to flex at ALL unless there is SOMETHING going on under the fiberglass shell.

But Hey, I'm gettin Old and I have been wrong before, just don't tell my wife, she still thinks I'm PERFECT!!!!!

I'm just sayin...:D
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Transom Question

Thanks again guys, its great to have a site like this where strangers can help a poor fellow like me out!!


we were all strangers on this site till we all discovered this is a lot more than a boating site......i have really good friends all over the world from this site...

i have also met over 40 iboaters personally and have had many friends join the forum.......

really ....hang out here....read....you will become a much better boater....possibly save some lives of the people you love....and make some really good new friends
 

Utahboatnut

Senior Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Jan 15, 2009
Messages
785
Re: Transom Question

Not a replacement for the drill test, but look at the 4 nuts/washers that hold the outboard on if they are indented into the glass at all you should be investigating further(drill test), Or remove drain fitting , stic finger in there and feel the wood. My last boat was a 20' cuddy with a 200 hp outboard, I had been around boats (I/O's) my whole life & thought I was fairly boat savy. After some reading on this site I thought maybe I should check mine out just for the heck of it. The whole transom was mush,:eek: I had been skiing, pulling tubes, family and friends in the boat, rough waters etc. etc. I was shocked when I tore into it just how bad it was, surprised it even held a 380 pound outboard let alone all the rigors I was putting it through. Had I never looked I would have been boating on borrowed time and setting myself up for a disaster. Its at least worth a look see in my opinion. And yes a motor support for trailering is a good idea( they do call them transom savers too so you werent out of line on that)
 

chadly

Cadet
Joined
May 19, 2010
Messages
9
Re: Transom Question

Here is what my transom looked like. I thought it would be ok.....


b18be0ed-1.jpg
 
Joined
Feb 23, 2010
Messages
62
Re: Transom Question

First off I'd like to say that I hate it when you guys are right.

Secondly, I drilled two small test holes above the drain plug and to either side and got moist feeling flakes from both holes. So, right now I'm just looking at my options. The cost of the boat was $4600. If the cost of repair falls upon me I'm looking at what, probably $3k? I can't afford that so I would have to sell the boat and probably take a $2k loss.

Then again this marina has a good reputation (one of the reasons I felt safe buying there) so perhaps they will take it upon themselves to remedy the situation. I'll be getting in touch with them tomorrow.

Or theres the option of fixing it myself. But, I have no idea how to fiberglass or get the cap off or any of that and I think doing it myself could just be asking for more problems...

Sorry for the rambling...any input guys??
 
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