Transom Question

[oops!]

Re: Transom Question

the marina most likely will not fix the boat....it was used....and you bought what you bought. you can try....i wish you well.

doing a transom your self is not that hard....just a lot of messy itchy work that will take 40-80 hours.....but when your done....you know its right. and you can have peace of mind

 

[TheFormerlives]

Re: Transom Question

Well I'll see what they say tomorrow.

However if they don't want to fix then I guess my best option is to replace it myself. In which case I will definitely need some further info.

Its a 1989 Procraft. Would I need to remove the entire cap to replace the transom? If so how do I do that and how do I get it back on. Do I have to disconnect all the electrical components etc.. etc..

The wood is sandwhiched between two sheets of fiberglass. So can I just slip out the old plywood and slip in a new piece? Or will I have to remove the inside fiberglass sheet, rip out the old wood, replace wood and then refiberglass?

So many questions so little time. If theres a thread that adequately covers all this info anyone can feel free to link me to it. I've done a search but haven't found the detail I'm looking for.

 

[TheFormerlives]

Re: Transom Question

Figured I'd throw up a couple pics, although they probably don't show much!

 

[oops!]

Re: Transom Question

you can get in there with out pulling the cap....but it is a pita.

you also have options because the lamination of the inner transom skin.

search seacast.

the motor has to come off....anything on, attached to bolted thru or near the transom will need to be removed/moved

 

[TheFormerlives]

Re: Transom Question

I have looked at seacast. Is that something that people in the boat building community consider reliable, or is it just a crock to sucker people into spending money?

So you're recommending then that I pull the cap off? Will the old wood just slide out then, or whats the best way to get that out?

 

[Coho Ghost]

Re: Transom Question

"Former",

Also check out NIDA pourable ceramic transom compound. It is easier to use and $100.00/5 gal. cheaper than Seacast. They have a website; good tech support and good people to work with. I did the transom on my Livingston Pacific skiff with it, and I can's believe how solid it is - literally no flex! I only have a 25hp motor that weighs 115 pounds so that may help with the no-flex characteristics. Getting the rotten wood out from between the outer and inner skins of the transom is not a hard as you might think; it just takes some time. Chain saw, drills, chisels, scrapers etc. are the tools needed.

Just a suggestion you might want to check out.

Coho Ghost,
up in Washington state

 

[TheFormerlives]

Re: Transom Question

Thanks for the tip, I'm currently looking at both products. What I can't seem to find is how the two compare/contrast. I'm not sure what the primary similarities are or the differences so its hard to choose one over the other.

Right now I don't feel like my entire transom is rotted. I'm pretty sure its just in the beginning stages, and most of the rot is limited to the bottom 4" of wood. That being said I'd still like to replace it while I can (2week vacation from work). One of my main concerns is whether I have to remove the cap or not, and if so I feel like it will be probably be the most time consuming. I will try and get going with this project as soon as I get an engine hoist to remove the outboard, sometime in the next few days hopefully.

Thanks again for the input all, I willl try and keep this thread updated.

 

[TheFormerlives]

Re: Transom Question

Without pulling the cap is there anyway to tell how large the wood in the transom actually is? Is it limited to the flat rectangle section supporting the engine or does it extend inside the hull to the edges of the boat. You can take a look at the pic I posted a few posts back to visualize what I'm talking about.

If the wood is limited to the rectangle directly behind the engine, then I think instead of pulling the cap I will just slice through the top of the transom by the splashwell to acces it that way and when I'm done just seal it up and maybe use diamond plating to cover it.

 

[shaw520]

Re: Transom Question

Comparatively speaking, your transom is easier to replace, and is a good candidate for sea cast. Search these forums for plethora of valuable information.
Im currently finishing a re-transom project to my I/O, to my surprise, here is how it looked when I pulled the ring.

 

[lvl]

Re: Transom Question

Let me start by saying I am newb to boat repair much like yourself.Here is a pic of what I did to remove the cap. Not sure if this is what most people do but it seemed to be the best method I could come up with.

With the help from all the great people here at iboats I found a thread on how to remove a cap. I started by removing the rub rail by drilling out the rivets. Then I took a putty knife and hammered it up from the bottom to seperate the cap from the boat. (mine was glassed together with some glass tape.)

I hope this helps in some way trying to pass along anything I learn here

 

[Yacht Dr.]

Re: Transom Question

Hello lvl..

erm.. I have no .. suggestions...

However I dont think I would take a saw and start cutting away ..

Basically I think ( IMPO .. your gonna learn a whole lot about fiberglass repair if you do this repair the right way ).

YD.

PS. On the bright side..if you fix this properly..you can go into biz doing most repairs .