transom question

HMCM(SS)Ret

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[/ATTACH][/ATTACH]004.jpgI removed the old rotted transom and noticed that the bilge drains were solid blocks of resin. That is the wood only came down to the top of these resin blocks. See pics. But the resin blocks have cracks and holes in them. My question is can I seal these blocks with a thickened resin and then fit the new wood transom on top as was originally done.
 

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oops!

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Re: transom question

actually......i would get rid of them.

you have done so much allready (nice gut btw). why not cut that carp out. and replace it with a proper wooden (or other) transom.

the cracks in that stuff will just cause you greif down the road.

it will take some creative cutting on your new transom.....but a good proper template will take care of that.

the reason they are there is because the former transom was rough cut and filled with a poor mix of peanut butter......this was too resin rich and cracked over time...when the water was able to penetrate the block of resin.......the exposed transom edge wicked the water.

loose them.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

HMMM, Must have been a LOT of water in that hull to get to the bottom edge of the transom to allow it to wick water. Looks like those blocks are at least 2" off the hull. I suppose you could go to the trouble of grinding em out an cutting out around the drain tube to get the transom to FORM FIT the hull around the bottom edge in order to fillet it in and seal it off, but... If you do a good job of sealing the edges and filleting and tabbing I personally see no reason it won't last 30 years or longer leaving as is. BUT.. again that is just MY opinion.
 

oops!

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Re: transom question

hi woody !.
been reading lots of your stuff .....good job buddy !


as the boat sits stern heavy....it will only take 2 ins of water to submerge that center block.
even a skier getting out of the boat will have enough water in his life jacket to submerge that...
he has done so much to that hull....why not go all the way?
with 10 extra minits of grinding and a quick chisel rap on the center of each of those blocks will pop them loose from the hull skin.
then......he will KNOW it is done right.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

OK, I'll cry UNCLE !!!! You are absolutely right. I am in full agreement. Been chewing on it ever since I posted. I am USUALLY the kind of guy that doesn't take short cuts. Since you are already there why NOT take the 10 mins and do it RIGHT. OOPS is THE MAN and I am just a DUMB OKIE!!!:facepalm:
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

Thanks oops and wood! I guess I'll give this more thought. What is the best way to seal the drain holes if I do this? can I use a piece of PVC and glass it in?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

I'm not sure I understand the question. Why would you seal the drain hole?
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

OK not worded right, sorry.:facepalm: When I bore the new drain hole there will be bare wood exposed on the insode of the bore. What do I do to protect this area from water. That's why I mentioned the PVC pipe.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

You will install a new Drain tube when the time comes and at that time you will coat the bare wood with resin and then install the tube. NOT to worry!! the drain tubes have seals both inside and out and should NOT be an issue.
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

Thanks wood! That makes since. the way it was built original was just bore holes through the resin block. No tube. I looked up tubes and there are several types, what do you recommend? And thanks again for all your help so far. I am just getting started and a newbe. Need all the help I can get.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

How thick was the transom wood that you removed??
I like the Brass Tubes
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

1 1/2 " I read some posts that these require a special tool for installation.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

Yep, here's how you can Make your own....

(click the pix to enlarge)

DrainTubeTool.JPG
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

Next dumb question. At what point does the drain tube get installed? Before tabbing in the bottom of the transom?
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

Nope After. It will be one of the final things you do. Long time before that happens. You'll put tape over the outer skin when it comes time to install the new transom and let the resin fill the void where the old hole was and then redrill when the time comes.
 

HMCM(SS)Ret

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Re: transom question

The reason I ask is that it seems having the inner surface of the transom parallel with the outer skin would be critical. Tabbing and fillet, it seems, would make that near impossible. Maybe I am over thinking this.
 

Woodonglass

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Re: transom question

With I/O's it is CRITICAL that the outerskin and inner skin are Parallel and with 1/4" in thickness. The tabbin and Filleting should NOT be an issue for this. Take a look at friscoboaters thread and video's you'll quickly see and learn what I am talking about.
 
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