Transom Rebuild - steps

wguttrid

Seaman
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
72
Hi guys managed to get the old transom removed this weekend and a new one cut up, fitted, and clamp system ready to go as there was a slight bow in the center.

Original transom consisted of outside fiberglass, 3/4" plwood, 1/2" plywood, and one layer of fiberglass mat which I am duplicating same thicknesses so top deck and splashwell will fit when I drop it down.

Right now the new transom is ready to go and here is the steps I am thinking about.

1.) Coat the inside pieces of plywood with finishing resisn and let dry. Once dry apply PL Preminum between the two pieces and clamp around the edges and use the holes I have predrilled for ladder, outboard mounts, steering mount for additional clamps consisting of bolts and fender washers to help pull everything in. Will also shoot some #8 or #10 stainless screws in.
2.) Apply finishing reisin to outside piece of plywood transom and let dry, this will be the side that is placed up against inside of fiberglass transom.
3.) Coat remaining edges and front peice with laminating resisn.
4.) Use PL Preminum to stick the plywood to transom, use my clamping system to make sure the plywood is firmly secured to the fiberglass transom and everything is pulled in properly. (As stated above using finishing resisn on this side as not sure how well PL Preminum will stick to regular laminating resisn.??)
5.) Let sit and cure. Once cured will complete inside fiberglass tabing with 1 foot wide f/g mat.
6.) Will let everything sit and cure. Once tabing is cured and hard and the transome is solid, I will remove my clamping system.
6.) Finish off complete transom with a layer of fiberglass mat, cut to the exact shape of transom.

How does that sound guys???
 

fuzzeywiggler

Petty Officer 1st Class
Joined
Feb 17, 2008
Messages
357
Re: Transom Rebuild - steps

Sounds like you are ready to get cracking! The only thing I would change is to pull the screws and clamps after the Pl is hard (not cured) otherwise it may be difficult to remove.

Even though you are using laminating resin I would still sand inbetween layers/coats to get the best bond if it is possible to sand without gumming up the paper.

Good luck! sounds like you have a good handle on what you need to do to make a quality repair.

Fuzzy
 

FBPirate95

Master Chief Petty Officer
Joined
Apr 15, 2009
Messages
840
Re: Transom Rebuild - steps

Any particular reason for using PL Premium? Is this a standard material for this type job? I ask because I'm about to do the exact same thing and I was wondering how I should laminate to plywood together and glue it to the transom.
 

wguttrid

Seaman
Joined
May 12, 2010
Messages
72
Re: Transom Rebuild - steps

hahaha..ya made quite a bit of little mistakes thru this rebuild so defintly will pull the bolts I am using for clampls before it cures hard..thanks for the heads up.

Curious though how long does it take to fully hard or workable harndhess?

Actually this is a first time rebuild and been reading and researching and noticed PL Prem. comes up quite a bit for transoms so going to try it out. Seems to be a well rounded poly adhesive and construction grade so should work perfect.

Will find out tonight just how much I like it or not, lol.
 

drewpster

Commander
Joined
Oct 17, 2006
Messages
2,059
Re: Transom Rebuild - steps

One thing; Finishing resin contains wax. No adhesive I know of will bond well to wax, so use laminating for everything but the top layers.

two thing; If your intention is to make the cure watertite prior to installing it, I recommend you use a very light cloth (6oz. or lighter) to go along with the coating. Resin alone will fracture and let water in, adding a light layer of cloth will make it last much longer.

three; I recommend you use resin with two layers of mat between the core and the transom skin to bond it in the boat. Or: if you want to use PL be sure to use a tight notched trowel to spread the glue evenly on both the core and the skin, then bond it in place. A simple S-shaped bead on the surfaces will bond them together, but the glue will not squeeze out evenly, and you will end up will voids between the skin and the core. This gives a place for water to collect. It also will print through the skin to the outside and show on the outside of the transom.

Four and final thing: Make peanut butter with resin and filler to fill voids you will have around the perimeter of the core. There is no easy way to perfectly fit the core and voids will happen. The best way to fill them is with peanut butter.
 
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