transom rebuild

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lawdog53

Recruit
Joined
Mar 20, 2004
Messages
2
I have a 1984 bayliner, a gift from a friend. It had a four cylinder volvo that needs major help. I am trying to convert it to an outboard. I removed the motor and outdrive. The floor, back seat frame and small I/O transom was mulch. I have removed it all and I am at the point of rebuilding the transom.<br /><br />The problem I am facing is that the back of the hull is not flat all the way across. The center 2 feet of the hull is flat like atypical outboard boat hull, but from 2 feet to the sides the hull angles towards the front of the boat. I thought about installing each layer of the transom in three opieces and tying in the edges of the pieces with 45 degree cuts and glassing the seams. I am not sure if this idea would create a strong enough transom. Any ideas??
 
E

Elk Chaser

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 29, 2003
Messages
186
Re: transom rebuild

Not an expert but............<br /><br />I would try to make a good tight joint and epox them together and then it seems to me that you really would need a mechanical bond of some type, (glass would not bond good enough) maybe a 12 or 18" wide strip (or better yet a 1 piece across the flat part and bent on both side overlapping 8 or 10 inches after the joints on either side and screwed into place) of 1/8 inch aluminum and have it bent to fit the angle and screwed into place top to bottom. Could even do that on top of the glass at the joint.<br /><br />Only thing I can think of that would give the support that I think an outboard would need.
 
JasonJ

JasonJ

Rear Admiral
Joined
Aug 20, 2001
Messages
4,163
Re: transom rebuild

You could do what you propose, but in addition you may want to glass in some "knees". They are basically braces that would go from the transom about 2/3rd up, solid from top of knee to bottom, down to the stringers, and run forward at least a foot, but 18 inches would be even better. You would want to place them towards each end of the center transom (what was originally the small transom area for the I/O), wherever the stringers fall. This way the force is better distributed into the boat structure. The angled portions of the transom on each side would be more for solid mounting points for the tow eyes than anything else. I hope I sort of described what I meant.
 
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