transom replacement on aluminum hull

[phantomv170]

Hi there,

Ok, here's the story. I just bought an 89 Alumicraft boat. And I now have come to the realization that I will have to replace the transom. I have done a lot of searching on the subject, but I have not seen any repairs that were on an aluminum hull with a boat that has the rear deck fishing platform. From what I can tell, I will have to remove the top deck along the gunnel. Then, if Im lucky I can remove the transom out from top, after the engine and all hardware is removed. Worst case scenario, I have to completely dismatel the entire back end of the boat. What Im wondering is if anyone has some experiences in replacing a transom on this type of boat. And they can give me some advice on how best to approach it. Im not afraid to do this kind of job, but I prefer to know how best to tackle it before I start.
I attached a brochure showing the type of boat. I can post real pics tommorrow.

I have uploaded some pics. It looks like the wood core does not go all the way to the bottom.

Thanks

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

Bump, I added some photos.

 

[saumon]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

From what I can tell, I will have to remove the top deck along the gunnel. Then, if Im lucky I can remove the transom out from top, after the engine and all hardware is removed.

Sorry, no easy removal. All thoses philips screws you see on the outside goes through the transom and are held inside by nylon lock nuts inside (we can see a few of them on your bilge pic). You have to remove all of them to lift the transom...

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

If thats my biggest gotcha, then Im a happy camper. Err boater
Im just hoping that I dont have to tear it completely apart.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I cant stand looking at it any more. Im tearing it apart!
Why did I sell my engine hoist!

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

While Im waiting for my lifting eye to arrive, I decided to take a peek at the wood making up the transom for sizing. I managed to pull a top corner off, to get a look at the top of the transom core.

I could see 3 sheets of plywood. 2 thicker ones sandwiching a thinner one in the middle.The overall thickness was 1 7/8 inch thick. The center sheet was 1/2 inch, which left the 2 outer sheets at 11/16.

I checked with my local lumber yard, and they said they can order in marine plywood at either 1/2 or 3/4 inch. Hmmm, so how do I come up with 1 7/8?
I asked if they had 5/8, which would work(5/8 * 3 = 1 7/8), but they dont have it.

Then I got to thinking, If I used 2 at 1/2 + 1 at 3/4 , I get 1 3/4 total thickness. I intend to coat it in epoxy when done. So how thick does coating it in epoxy add? If Im at 1 3/4 , I only need an additional 1/8 to get to the 1 7/8.

The other possibilty is, that those 3/4 sheets are really only 11/16 actual thickness. If Possible I would like to make it a full 2 inch thick using 2 at 3/4 plus 1/2. Once it is completely apart I will know better if I can increase the thickness.

I am also wondering about the 2 drain tubes for the tray behind the motor. They are made of aluminum. What is the best way to get them out? Drill?
ShouldI replace with aluminum or are the plastic ones good enough?

Also, there is a huge drain? or is it the live well intake? Its plastic and about 1 1/2 inch in diameter. Is it a saveable item or should I plan on buying a new one too?

I had to drill out some rivets to get a peek at the transom. This got me thinking, what is the best way to drill out rivets? I got the impression I wasnt doing it the right way. And what type do I replace them with?(for reinstallation)

Im trying to get an idea of what I need to order. I hate having to stop on a project cause Im waiting on some part.

So far I have a shopping list of

marine plywood
epoxy (gluvit)?
2 drain tubes
1 big plastic tube
lifting eye (ordered)
A boat load of rivets

Am I missing anything?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Pretty sure all of us Starcraft guys are using 2 sheets of 3/4" laminated together sealed with epoxy. Add glass to it if you really want to last forever. On the two aluminum boats I did, all the fasteners that went through the transom were regular bolts. The cap/trim piece was actually fastened with little spiral nails. The only things riveted were the end caps. When I reinstalled my transom cap piece I did not put the nails back in. I just 5200'd the heck out of it. I used regular aluminum pop rivets for the end caps. The plastic drain tubes work great. Bed them in some 5200.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

I found some 5/8 marine at a local yard. So I can get my original 1 7/8 thickness.
Im wonder still though how much added thickness the epoxy will add? Maybe I should go with the 1 3/4 thickness and let the epoxy pad it out the extra 1/8.

How did you get the drain tubes out?

I also noticed my screws for the transom were brass with a rubber washer. I suppose the washers should be replaced too?

 

[ezmobee]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull (New questions for the pros)

Just mutilate the drain tubes with a needle nose pliers or something. They'll be replaced. I bedded all my bolts with 5200 when I replaced them. No washers. The epoxy I used was pretty thick but I still wouldn't think it added 1/8".

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

It took me pretty much my entire day, but I finally got that rotten bugger out.
First I had to get the motor off. So...a little dumpster diving and some old 4x4, and the motor is off.

In order to get at the transom required me to take the top cap off completely all the around the boat. What a PITA.

I finally got to the transom. And what a rotted pile of mush it was!
So much for having a template!

Now, I have come to the conclusion , I might as well check the floor boards. And recover them too. Luckily the floor boards look like they come off in sections. Each one individually carpeted. I read some ppl dont put carpet back down, but use some kind of Rhino liner type of finish. Any suggestions?

Another question I have is, do I have to use the same kind of foam, or are there other options? I think I have to tear it out in order to get the raised deck out.

I noticed I have a few extra screw holes in the transom from various items screwed in to it. What is the best way to seal those back up?

If you look in the photo, you can see the top area of the transom, i has the aluminum bent over the top. Im assuming Im going to have to bend it back up straight in order to get my new transom back in?

 

[saumon]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

JB Weld or any other epoxy putty work well for sealing the extra holes. Can be sanded and painted.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I have some JB weld, I will give that a try . I suppose the ultimate is to have them welded.

I have decided to do all of the floor boards since Im this far into it. It looks like the floors were replace in the main area a few years ago as it was done with 1/2 PT plywood. I decided to use a 5/8 BC plywood. Prob stick with carpet as it looks easiest. In the engine compartment I really dont need carpet, and still think some else might be better, just not sure what.

I didnt have to remove the foam after all. Those 2 side compartments were isolated and left them alone.

Oh ya, I also found a million big black ants living under the floor boards. Sprayed bug killer all over the inside.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

For the extra holes I also used JB weld. I cut little squares of aluminum flashing and used it as a little bit of a backer for the JB. Make darn sure that foam is dry all the way down. You don't want to be lugging around a couple hundred extra pounds of water-weights. Lots of options other than carpet. Non-skip coatings like Durabak and Kiwi Grip, paint with sand added or marine vinyl. I used marine vinyl on my deck and am thus far pleased with it.

 

[saumon]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I used marine vinyl on my deck and am thus far pleased with it.

x2

I use the Nautolex brand and love it vs the carpet before. A little bit less soft on the misses feet but, what the heck, it's a fishing boat! Clean the mess with the hose and forgot it...

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I think I will go with carpet and polyurethane paint in the bilge compartment. Carpet will hide all the seems and imperfections best, while the poly paint is better for the greasy bilge area.

I like your idea of how to seal those extra holes.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

ok, the foam. It rained last night and i noticed some of the foam soaked it up. The bigger problem was the lack of drainage to the bilge area. That foam is blocking the water from draining out. So, is the foam hard to replace? Or can I go with that pink foam for houses? Either way I think its best if I make better drainage back to the bilge.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I would remove the foam. You'll probably find it's waterlogged. It will be a real pain though. Replace with the pink or blue sheet foam or pool noodles.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

OK, Im having debates with myself on what I should do as far as renovations on the interior. Im looking for some advice here.

In the first pic, you can see the original flooring with carpet. There was 3 pieces carpeted individually. Gray with red down the middle. My debate is whether I continue with 3 individual sections or join the seams with cloth and epoxy, and thereby making it into just one piece for appearance. My concern is whether I should/need to have the center piece separate in case I need easy access to the center which holds that huge 24 gallon tank, which is 80 inches long. What are the odds of ever needing to gain acces to the fuel tank? I'd hate to have to rip my whole floor apart to get at it. Or am I worrying for nothing?

Another thought I came to, was whether I should make a compartment in that front bulkhead area in the floor. I could sink a 7 in deep x24 in long cooler in there, or just storage. Enough for a 12 pack. I would have tio taer out a bit of foam to get the room. I could then use aluminum angle and sheet, to build it.

Next, If you look at the pic that shows the inside hull. I tore off a junk of the carpet. I was thinking of painting or using durabak type liner on the side. But if you notice there is a piece of angle along the bottom overlapping. The carpet does wonders hiding it, but paint will not. You think it still might look OK using paint/durabak?

Im thinking if I go with durabak also for ther flooring , I would want the floor to only be 1 piece with no seams?

And another thought. The boat uses to have a bench with fixed seats for the driver and passenger. The PO changed it to pedestal seats and took out the ice chest that was in between. He also took out the rod locker down the side. Im thinking about building it back that way. For the seating area, does anyone have the dimensions of the box the seats sit on? Im thinking it was origanlly about 8in high x 16 in deep. How would I beef up the box to hold my big butt?

Sorry for all the questions, but I want to do it right. Funny , this started out as a transom replacement, but has turned into a complete rebuild!!!

My next question will be how to repaint the hull!

Thanks

 

[saumon]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

Let it in separate pieces, in case you'll have to reach the tank.

Use marine vinyl. Same benefits as carpet + ease of cleaning + more durable.

For whatever building you'll need and the deck, 5/8" BC Fir coated with epoxy is the way to go.

And yes, build the bench chest, rod locker and font storage. We never have enough storage.

As for the foam, pink or blue cut sheet is what you want and it won't absord water like the poured-in foam.

 

[phantomv170]

Re: transom replacement on aluminum hull

I got my transom built, and while test fitting it I noticed I have some pitting in the aluminum next to where the transom goes.

Whats the preferred way to deal with this?
I read first clean it with vinegar?
Then prime and paint?
Or coat it with epoxy?



Something else?