Transom Replacement

[ErikDC]

Re: Transom Replacement

Great info, MercMark! The rot seems to be confined to the upper port side corner of the transom. Also thanks for the input about using steel. I was uncomfortable about that from the beginning. Good luck with the repair, icole, keep us up to date!<br /><br />Edit: Another question, can the rotted part (once removed) be filled in with epoxy? Removing the new transom to get to the old will be an EXTREME pain in the tookus!

 

[Ralph 123]

Re: Transom Replacement

Invest $20 and buy this tape. May get it cheaper on Ebay or half.com<br /><br />

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[saxis]

Re: Transom Replacement

I have this same problem on my 14' Fleetform and I've already started working on it. I would recommend doing it right the first time, and not looking for a "quick-fix". As most boat owners are, I'm strapped for cash and I'd imagine a good Saws-all would do wonders on getting the old transom out (couldn't afford one, and I ended up chiseling for about 5 hours , and then grinding for a couple more). I had to ask some very newb questions to get started and my thread may help... It has some very good tips about preparing the surface and tabbing the transom in. <br /><br />transom plywood problem

 

[pbailey]

Re: Transom Replacement

If your transom is just wet or damp and you can dry it out, this guy has the fix.<br /><br />Check it out.<br /><br /> http://www.rotdoctor.com/

 

[laurincole]

Re: Transom Replacement

Hey Folks, been on vacation and not allowed to bring the laptop. Now back at home I can relax and work on the transom. Didn't expect all the replies. I have removed most of the rotted wood and it does not go all the way to the edges of the boat. Nothing actually dries out here in Louisiana and I would be shot if I were to bring the boat in the house. Is dry enough good enough?<br />Not trying to do a shotty job, Just trying to mitigate my expenses. Thank for the advice.

 

[MercMark]

Re: Transom Replacement

I don't know for sure, but my gut tells me that you're going to need ideal conditions and a lot of time to dry a piece of plywood that's been soaking for YEARS.<br /><br />If it's solid enough that you want to keep that bit of wood, imagine trying to dry a piece of wood that was soaked through.<br /><br />I work in architecture and even after wood is kiln dried, you can expect some shrinkage which will take a year to show in the form of cracks and nail pops. Most builders do a visit after one year to repair nail pops.<br /><br />Do you really think you'll be able to dry a piece of solid wood? <br /><br />Unless there is some chemical means that forces the water out, especially if you've cut into it already, just cut new pieces of ply for the transom. You don't have to buy the 206$ per sheet teak marine plywood. If you're going to cut corners to save, use a select or no1 exterior grade ply soaked with resin.