Transom, Stringers...........help!

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Incidentally, what thickness of plywood do I need to replace my deck with? What I tore out was maybe 5/16"......it seemed too flimsy to be a floor.

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Typically you should have three drains. Two in the Bilge and one in the Splashwell. There could be others if you have a Divided Splashwell or Divided Bilge or other configuration. In a typical configuration the Two drains in the bilge would be an interior drain to drain any water that might accumulate under the deck (Between the deck and the hull caused by a leaking hull, deck or both) Pulling this plug and tilting the boat towards the stern allows the water to escape into the bilge. The Bilge Drain which is Through the Transom allows you to drain the water from the bilge which captures any water from above deck and the before mentioned below deck drain. Splashwell drains also are through the transom and allow water to be drained from the splash well. This water is typically from backwash when the boat comes to a sudden stop and the wave "Backwashes "over the stern.

Hope this helps.


I'm just sayin...

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

I would recommend 5/8 ext. Grade. When you coat it with resin and glass you will have a little over 3/4" thickness and it will be as strong as you need it. Some have gone with 1/2" but that is a little thin for my taste.


I'm just sayin...

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

1/2" ply will work just fine if it uniformally supported with no more than 12"-14" spans between supports/stringer/cross members. Even 5/8" ply will need adequate support to prevent too much flexing.

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Thanks for all the input, guys!!

So, I'm kinda trying to put together a list of materials that I'm going to need for my resto. But, some things I'm unsure about what to use. Maybe you guys can give me some help?

For repairs on the outside of the hull, what to use? Chopped strand? (I'll be posting pics at some point) How big an area can one repair with chopped strand? After repairs are done on the outside of the hull, what do I paint it with? Does it matter what kind of paint I use? (I'm assuming it matters)

On the "drains" topic...the way I understand it, is that there should only be two drain holes through the transom. Is this correct?
So, there should be a drain through the deck to drain water from below deck to the deck in order for that water to drain through the deck drain (through the transom)?? Am I understanding you correctly, Woodonglass??

I've attached a couple pics. In the one pic you'll see the stearn of the boat. In that pic you can see a small hole, maybe 1/4", this is where I think, at some point someone had intentions of draining water from below the deck, but when I got the boat, it was siliconed shut. What shall I do with this hole? If I have understood correctly, then I should be glassing this hole shut. Correct??

In the other pic you'll see a hole in the deck at the bow end of the boat. This is the hole I questioned about in another post, but I'm still unclear on that one. Do I need to have a hole in the deck at the bow end??

Thanks in advance!!

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Sorry, forgot to attach the pics......:redface:........here they are.

 

[ezmobee]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

The top big hole is to drain your splashwell. That hole will be above the water line and should be left unplugged at all times. The lower hole is to drain your bilge. That should be plugged when the boat is in the water. That little hole on the bottom shouldn't be there and should be patched.

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

The top big hole is to drain your splashwell. That hole will be above the water line and should be left unplugged at all times. The lower hole is to drain your bilge. That should be plugged when the boat is in the water. That little hole on the bottom shouldn't be there and should be patched.

Thanks ezo! That's as I thought but I wasn't positive. And as far as a hole in the floor at the bow end??

 

[Greg Mrozinski]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Probably just a drain for the bow area (anchor, wet stuff, etc.). Would be a good idea to keep it since if you didn't have it water would collect on the deck. Just have to be careful to faciltate this water draining to the bilge area properly under the deck.

 

[erikgreen]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Since the question was asked:

The difference between bottled wood glue and the stuff that glues plywood panels are these items:

* Bottled glue is applied cold and designed to work in variable clamping pressures on variable substrates. It's designed to be a "pretty good" glue for a lot of uses, and to be non toxic

* Bottled glue for the most part uses water as a solvent, or in the case of polyurethane glues as a catalyst

* Plywood glue used for exterior grade ply is applied in a hot press process, under ideal (high) clamping pressure, and is designed to do exactly the job it does. Being specialized for that job, it does it very well.

So generally the glue used for bonding plywood plies is far superior in water resistance and strength to bottled glues.

However, there is a partial exception to this. The exception are glues with polyurethane chemistry like Gorilla glue. Gorilla glue carries an ANSI/HPV Type I water resistance specification, IE it's waterproof, not just water resistant. It won't bond two pieces of plywood as well as the hot glue process that made them because of other variables like clamping pressure and temperature, but it's closer than most bottle glues.

One thing to watch out for with ANY glue: Veneers. Sometimes the manufacturer will use standard methods to create a wood core for a plywood sheet, and will then repair the outer plies to create a smooth surface. Then they can use a lesser adhesive like a spray on or polyurethane to attach "clear" hardwood skins. The result is a piece of plywood that looks like high quality hardwood ply, but is in fact cheap wood with paper thin veneers. If you glue onto these veneers, no matter how good your glue is you only have the strength of the veneer and glue holding the bond together. It's not much. Check the edges of your plywood to see how thick the face veneers are -they should be as thick as the rest of the plies.


I have to ask the question though: Why use something other than resin, anyway? I mean, you're going to coat the whole thing with fiberglass regardless, so why go to the trouble of gluing with an expensive glue while simultaneously experimenting with your boat in a way that may cause you to do extra repairs in the future?

The only guess I can make is that using poly resin seems too complicated? Epoxy used to be too expensive but it's not a huge amount more per gallons now.

Why use something other than plain poly resin and mat?

Erik

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

"The top big hole is to drain your splashwell. That hole will be above the water line and should be left unplugged at all times. The lower hole is to drain your bilge. That should be plugged when the boat is in the water. That little hole on the bottom shouldn't be there and should be patched.
I agree with EZ's assessement totally. Can you post a pic of the bilge from the inside. Do you have a drain for below decks in the bilge? A pic would help."

I agree with EZ's analysis completely!!!

"Do I need to have a hole in the deck at the bow end??"

Nope, I would glass this end and try and seal you deck as best as possible. Make her watertight.

I'm just sayin...

By the way. Titebond III Has a ANSI/HPV Type I water resistance rating just like Gorilla Glue.

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Thanks guy, my thinking is, since there will be a hole through the floor at the stearn end for any water between the hull and the deck to escape through the hole in the transom, than why create another on at the bow.........I will seal it as water tight as I possibly can.

Thanks again.

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

"The top big hole is to drain your splashwell. That hole will be above the water line and should be left unplugged at all times. The lower hole is to drain your bilge. That should be plugged when the boat is in the water. That little hole on the bottom shouldn't be there and should be patched.
I agree with EZ's assessement totally. Can you post a pic of the bilge from the inside. Do you have a drain for below decks in the bilge? A pic would help."

I agree with EZ's analysis completely!!!

"Do I need to have a hole in the deck at the bow end??"

Nope, I would glass this end and try and seal you deck as best as possible. Make her watertight.

I'm just sayin...

By the way. Titebond III Has a ANSI/HPV Type I water resistance rating just like Gorilla Glue.

Wood, here's the best pic I have of the stearn end before I ripped out the floor. Not sure that I'm understanding properly. Do I need to build an area under the deck to collect any water that accumulates?

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Here's a pic of my stern area.

As you can see I have a "Little" Bilge area and a drain hole on the side for draining the "Under Decks" area. I keep the side hold plugged at all times during use. I thought you might have the same but your pics show that you do not. THOUGHT!!! You might consider building a small bilge area similar to mine, pluggin your existig drain hole and relocating it lower down on the transom in order to accomodate this "Below Decks" drainage. I really like having this feature as a "Just in Case" Makes it nice to ensure that if water did get below the deck I could easily drain it out. I would be very easy for you to do at this stage in your rebuild. Something to think about.


I'm just sayin...

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Hey, Wood, I snapped a couple more pics. Hope these let you see what you were after.

Now, do I need to build some kind of compartment or something back there? I'm not entirely clear on what needs to happen before I install the floor.

Thanks!

 

[Woodonglass]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Hey strt.

I made this drawing based on your last pic.

All you have to do is frame up a bilge box between the stringer as shown and drill three holes in the box one on each side of the stringers and one in the front. Then Remove your existing drain tube and redrill another drain hole at the bottom of the hull . Make Sure and allow for the LIP of the tube when you make your measurements for the hole. Fill your old drain tube hole with Hairy Peaunt Butter and you will be good to go.

I'm just sayin...

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Wow, that's awesome, and so simple to do! Thanks a million!!!

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Oh, another thing..........is the bottom of that box simply the bottom of the hull? Or do I need to make a little floor in that box?

Just to be positive that I understand, the top of the bilge box is flush with the floor, correct??

 

[zach103]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Oh, another thing..........is the bottom of that box simply the bottom of the hull? Yess. ... Do not make the box have a floor..
Just to be positive that I understand, the top of the bilge box is flush with the floor, correct??

And up the box is flush with the floor you can even do it so the box is the width of you floor below it so that the floor lies level right on top of the box than just glass it.

 

[strtbobber]

Re: Transom, Stringers...........help!

Thanks Zach. Makes sense!!