Transome Drain Fitting Replacement

[sybaris2]

Last Fall I was winterizing my boat (2005 Crownline 220EX) and while I was taking out the brass drain plug the whole fitting came off. It was only held on by 3 small brass screws and required some torque to get the plug on and off so it kind of seemed inevitable that it would fail some day anyway. I was surprised to find that there was no epoxy or other adhesive used behind the fitting.

So I'm looking for suggestions on repair. My first thought is to go up a size with the screws and use the same screw holes. I could also invert the fitting and drill new holes. I have also thought about a different fitting altogether as the torque to remove and replace the brass plug over 14 years probably aided in its failure.

Any suggestions much appreciated.

 

[Scott Danforth]

your transom plug flange threads are tapered for the brass pipe plug. you cant flip it around

you should not need a lot of torque to seal. your turning it too tight. it would seal if it was only finger tight, then turn 1-2 flats past that. that is it.

take some 5200 and bed it in, using new screws

 

[sybaris2]

your transom plug flange threads are tapered for the brass pipe plug. you cant flip it around

you should not need a lot of torque to seal. your turning it too tight. it would seal if it was only finger tight, then turn 1-2 flats past that. that is it.

take some 5200 and bed it in, using new screws

I said invert it, not flip it. The casting makes it pretty obvious which side faces out. Thanks for the suggestion.

 

[Scott Danforth]

you can clock it if you want

 

[harringtondav]

The yellow flag that popped into my mind is "why did the screws pull out?" Now would be a good opportunity to make sure the transom isn't mush around that bung hole. Scrape the hole with a dental pick to make sure it's solid. Coat the hole with sealant per SD. This will protect the raw plywood.

 

[JASinIL2006]

The yellow flag that popped into my mind is "why did the screws pull out?" Now would be a good opportunity to make sure the transom isn't mush around that bung hole. Scrape the hole with a dental pick to make sure it's solid. Coat the hole with sealant per SD. This will protect the raw plywood.

That's the first thing I thought, too, especially if the flange wasn't bedded in some sort of sealant.