Tri hull restoration project

Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
70
Hello to all who view this thread, and most importantly thank you to those who offer up sound (FREE) advice.

Background
I picked this beauty (w/ trailer; no motor) up in the beginning a January 2012 for $200 off of craigslist. I already have a boat so why would I need another (as my wife asked)? Well, my other boat is a 21? Osprey (same hull design as a Cape Horn), with a 9? beam. Very stout boat and takes some work to get her on the water (& out of the water) by myself with my wingman Connor (3 yr old son). So I decided I would like to have something a little smaller in addition to my other boat. Also I thought, it will be a long time before Connor will be tall enough to stand against the leaning post on my Osprey and man the helm. So again, a smaller boat would present that opportunity in a more present fashion.
When I called about the boat, the young guy told me he had 4 calls already and all were coming to look at it the next day. So I told him I could do better and wanted to come right then. It was around 8pm and the temp was dropping fast, and was expected to bottom out around 27-28 degrees. Good thing he was only 15 minutes north of where I lived. I picked my brother in law up, went by the bank to pick up some cash and rode up to see her. It was dark so I did a lot of banging, poking, and visual on her with a flashlight. I knew she was going to need a lot of work, regardless of what I was being told by the seller. I went ahead and paid for her and had a bill of sale signed. We couldn?t get her that night since the trailer had only one tire so my father in law and brother in law delivered her the next day.
The young man who sold me the boat didn?t know anything about her, so the first thing I wanted to do was find out as much as I could about the hull so I could get her properly registered in my name. The plate on the boat is pretty shot, with the info being non-legible, but the hull # was readable. I started with an internet search and came up with the first 3 digits of the hull # indicating the manufacturing company being Custom Fiberglass Manufactures (CFM). I tried a google search on this company, only to find they had been out of business for some time. After a few more google search?s trying to find some information I decided to hand it over to the pros of iboats.com. After posting a thread with a picture several replies provided me with more than enough suggestions and information on how to find out what I needed to know about my boat. However one reply in particular supplied me with the name of the owner of CFM. I was able to track him down through a web search. He now owns another boat company in Statesboro, GA. I called the company and spoke directly with him. He asked that I email a picture of the hull and he could tell me all he would be able to recollect since he didn?t have any physical data from his original business (CFM). So I did just that, and here is what he generously supplied me with,
This Custom Craft is a model 1672S (The S designates a side console). It had the following specifications: Max HP 75, approx weight of 550 lbs, center line length 15ft 3in, beam 72 in. It looks like one that we added a ?fantail? to the transom. The hull looks to be in good shape. Hope this info is helpful. Good luck with your restoration.
It?s a good feeling knowing that this man took the time to review this boat and reply to me, especially since he ?didn?t know me from Adam?.
I have since taken the information and sent in the registration and am awaiting for my new numbers.

Project begins
After my father & brother in law delivered her, I put her in my shed. I began to assess the situation and plot out a plan of attack. It was easy to determine what I needed to do first and that was to get all of the saturated foam and saturated wood that was in the hull out. And that is what I did. But before I started pulling wood out, I removed any and all hardware that would be in the way. After that was completed, I started with the floor of the boat, stern to bow pulling out foam and wood. What a mess it was. I?m glad I bought a good mask and wore protective clothing because the stuff I pulled out of that hull looked to be disease ridden. Once all of the wood and foam was removed I turned my attention to the transom. I knew the night I looked at her (before I bought her) that there was some glass separation and water had made its way in, but I didn?t think it penetrated to the degree that it had which I discovered after I cut the glass of the top of the transom. The transom is 1.5? thick, made up of 2- 3/4? pieces of plywood. The piece that was closest to the inside skin of the transom was shot. It crumbled with the slightest touch. The piece attached to the outer skin of the transom was shot also, but not to the degree as the first piece described. I was going to try the whole seacast approach and remove the wood in the transom in between the inner and outer skins. I began by doing what seacast had suggested which was take a paddle bit and drill holes in succession into the wood of the transom. Starting at the top of the transom and pushing down through the transom wood. After the holes was drilled, take a chainsaw and began cutting out the wood left. After about 20 minutes of that fiasco I said nope, I?ll just cut the outer skin off of the boat to remove the wood. And that is what I did. I drew a cut line, 2? in from the outermost part of the transom all the way around. I then cut the skin out with a grinder using a cutoff wheel. I separated the skin from the wood using a pry bar. The skin came off in one piece. I then used a skill saw to cut the exposed wood along the same perimeter which I used to remove the skin. After I pulled that wood out I had to chisel out the remaining wood that was embedded in the 2? perimeter of outer skin. That process took about 2 hours. I now have all of the foam and wood that was in the boat completely removed, with the exception of the bow deck which is in decent shape and can be left alone. I now will begin the daunting task of sanding every inch of her. I will also be reaching out for advice going forward, especially with the transom repair.

I have some pictures I would like to share, but I there are to many to post in this thread. Is there a way for me to post them all at once???

Thanks for reading.

IRBF.
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
70
Re: Tri hull restoration project

I'm going to attempt to add pics of my project. I have 24 that I'd really like to share. Tri hull project pics (thumbnail) 009.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 002.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 005.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 006.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 007.jpg
 
Joined
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Messages
70
Re: Tri hull restoration project

Tri hull project pics (thumbnail) 037.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 038.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 039.jpgTri hull project pics (thumbnail) 043.jpg

Last 4.. Please let me know if there is an easier way to post pics. I'm not sure I did it correctly.
 
Joined
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Messages
70
Re: Tri hull restoration project

If you look at the last 4 pics (thread from 12:45 pm) you can see that I have removed the outer skin of the transom. For the new transom, I will be using two 3/4" pieces of aruaco. I intend on using epoxy resin on both and then sandwiching them together until the epoxy cures. I will then drop the new wood into the transom. I have cut the remainder of the fantail's out of the way so that the wood just drops in and sits inside the 2" perimeter I've left on the outer skin. The next step will be to glass the transom in. How should I go about adding the glass back? Mat vs. cloth. I would imagine that an overlay of the new glass over the 2" perimeter of the remaining outer skin is not sufficient and I sure continue around the corner of the transom onto the gunnels of the boat for a foot or so with my new fiberglass. Please let me know what you think???

Thanks,
IRBF
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Tri hull restoration project

HI fishin !

wow.....you have done a lot of work. im sure your wing man is gonna love it when its done.

there are a couple of things to consider here.....

but first off.......can you re size those pics?....640 x 480.

in the restoration forum.....we kinda need as big of pics as we can...
I up load to photo bucket. Resize....then copy the img tag....and paste it in the post......
it looks like this......lots of detail can be seen

picgroup16005.jpg


ok....i have a few concerns about your build....

the first one.....is the most important...
In the United States.....You need a title to the boat or you don't own it.
every state is different.....but with out the title....you cant do anything with the boat.
get your title first......then work on the boat....other wise it is bound for the land fill.

some of out guys here have found a way to licence it in another state....and that works...but being a canadian. our laws are different
..i really only just parrot what i have read here in regards to licensing the hull, but i have read its a real PITA.

second....is the transom.....
by cutting the outer skin.....you have made a lot of extra work. in fact....it may be difficult to get the transom at the proper angle of attack.

the standard method is to remove the inner skin....and cut the wood out.
this accomplishes a few things.
it leaves the correct angle of attack of the transom....if i remember correctly...for out boards, this is at 110 -113 deg.
this is constant to the hull and will stop the hull from porpoising.

the other thing it accomplishes is .....
if you add the new piece of the transom to the inner skin.....and that is off angle as far as the center line to gunwhales is concerned.....you will have the motor pushing the boat a different angle than the keel wants to go.
kinda like dog tracking in a car.

the last thing......is strictly cosmetic......it will take a lot of grinding, re gellcoating and fairing to make it look right, as you will need 3 layers of 1708 on the outer skin at minimum,,,this will make it thick, and a pain to fair to the old gunwhales and the under side of the outer skin.
I am afraid that doing the cosmetics will take you longer than the transom re build it self.

from the pics....it appears the stringers are ok....(the pics are very small and hard to see properly for a good assessment)
i would get rid of any bad wood after doing several core samples.....and replace with good stuff. and glass those in.

as far as the epoxy......do not use any chopped strand mat with it.....use only a woven roving of good weight.....17 oz at minimum. you can get 17 oz bi axe cloth without a csm backing for working with epoxy.

as far as your plan about going a foot around the corners to the sides......do the same on the bottom as well.
to do that....you must grind off the gellcoat of the boat, so you bond glass to glass....not glass to gellcoat.

we can get to the fairing part later...
but you have to decide if you are going to re gellcoat ...or paint.....if you use paint...you are good to go....but if you plan on re gelcoating....you will have to go with poly resin instead of epoxy.
as gellcoat wont stick to epoxy.

post back with your thoughts

cheers
oops
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
70
Re: Tri hull restoration project

Thanks for the response oops. I will get those pics resized this weekend. Sorry for the late response. In MS a title is not needed for the boat (just a bill of sale with 2 witnesses, if no witnesses the bill of sale has to be notarized). I do have the paperwork submitted with the state and am waiting on the numbers for her. The wheels turn slow here in MS when it comes to the paperwork. However I did see where they cashed my check so I know it should be anyday that envelope will be in the mail. I wish I would have taken out the inner skin as you suggested, but there's no going back now. My plan of attack on the transom is to start with a piece of OSB (for template purposes only) and have someone hold it up to the back of the transom while I outline the edges and bottom of the transom to the OSB. I guess another way to say it would be to trace the transom onto the OSB. I will then cut the OSB and start to shape her until she fits very snug in the transom. I will then pull the OSB out of the transom and use that as my template to cut my auruaco 3/4" ply (2 pieces). I don't know what that will do to the angle of the transom, but since I retained that 2" perimeter of the transom, I'm hoping once glassed in it will pretty much be the same as before I cut it out. I will make sure to grid off the gel coat before glassing and wrap the glass a foot around the corners to the sides and the same on the bottom of the boat. I plan on using epoxy resin, and epoxy paint (once I'm ready to paint her). Do you recommend using the piece of out skin that I cut out when glassing back? Or should I just build up off of the wood until flush with the 2" perimiter I left and then start to wrap the glass around the sides and bottom of the boat? I'm not sure I understand what fairing is from a process standpoint, but from your usage of it in your response it sounds like it's the blending of the new glass in with the established glass on the boat?

As for the stringer, it does have some rot. I plan on taking it out and replacing it to strengthen it up.

I plan on starting the template work this weekend along with some glass repairs needed to the inner skin that needs to be done prior the finalizing the transom job. The inner skin is weak and brittle in some areas so I'm going to sand it a bit and put a couple layers of cloth on it (using epoxy resin). I know it will take some time before I move on from the transom, but next will be the floor. Other than the bow deck (which is in great shape, solid with no signs of rot), I have removed all wood from the boat.

Got to get some materials tomorrow on my lunch break at the local marine store, some epoxy and glass. They have a several different glasses on hand, hopefully they will have this 1708 in stock you are suggesting.

I sure hope I haven't screwed up by removing the outer skin. I really want to salvage her as I think she will make a fine little vessel.

Thanks again,
IRBF.
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
70
Epoxy on transom still tacky

Epoxy on transom still tacky

Well I was able to get my template built today and ultimately cut my wood for the transom. I also put layer of epoxy resin on both pieces on one side. I would say the epoxy has been on the wood now for 6 hours and is still tacky. The temp here is somewhere between 50 and 60 degrees. I've went out twice and used a blow dryer to dry and add heat to help the cure process. I'm starting to get concerned whether or not it will cure. I will check again in the morning. If it's still tacky at that time, what are my options? Can I add a second coat and hope that one cures? I used a measuring cup and followed the directions using 5 parts resin to one part hardener (slow hardener). The coat I put on wasn't thin, but wasn't thick either. I sure hope I don't have to sand it off.

Still trying to get the pics to the proper size using photobucket. Hope to have them uploaded on Monday. Also hope to have my wood in the transom before then with new pics to show the progress.

Please let me know what you think about the epoxy situation. Thanks,

IRBF.
 
Joined
May 5, 2009
Messages
70
Re: Tri hull restoration project

Made good progress today, tired. Epoxy cured on new transom wood. I put the wood in today. Put the outer skin back on. Screwed everything tight and let it sit in the sun all day today. In the meantime I decided that I didn't want the side steer console anymore. It was in bad shape and wood take to much work so I cut it out. I found a center console of the same dimensions that I will pick up in the morning. Next up is finish glassing the transom and the fantail back on the top of the transom. Then I will move to the inside of the boat and reinforce the inner skin of the transom. Hopefully will have that done next weekend. After that it will be onto the floor. I think I can have this thing ready by the summer time. Haven't had much feedback on my questions, but I do see where people are viewing. I promise to have my pics up tomorrow with some of my progress from today. I appreciate you viewing.

IRBF.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Tri hull restoration project

lol....im all confused now.....

first......epoxy takes a long time to cure......that is one of the main reasons i dont like using the stuff....

do a layer.....wait a day......do another layer....ugh. using poly......i can do a full transom....peanut butter it in....tab it....and be on to the stringers and glass them in before the first layer of epoxy starts to cure..

ok......so you put the piece of glass back on the boat ??
did you remove the inside layer? or what approach are you using?....

the new transom will have to be aligned perfectly with the hull of the boat.

you will need to use string lines to properly position it or it will be at a bad angle.....both up and down.....and off side to side.
this will make the boat porpous....or will cause the boat to dog track,
where the motor will be pushing against the keel line.

post those pics so we can see where you are at bud.

cheers
oops
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
Jul 30, 2011
Messages
1,631
Re: Tri hull restoration project

I've never seen anyone cut the back of the transom off. This is really going to be a lot more work now.
 

oops!

Supreme Mariner
Joined
Oct 18, 2007
Messages
12,932
Re: Tri hull restoration project

happened here once before..

the owner was really cool about it.....good guy.

oh.....by the way.......the op asked about fairing....

fairing.....is the act of making a smooth transition between the new part and old part.

this will be very difficult to do in your case.

for a good look at fairing....click the link in my sig....... i had to fair the entire hull with the extension.
 
Joined
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Messages
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Re: Tri hull restoration project

Ok, the first pic in my prior thread (photbucket pics) is of the inside of the transom, specifically the inside wall of the inner skin. I cleaned it up, removing all wood and wiped her down with acetone.

The 2nd pic is of my OSB wood I cut out to put in the transom.... Nah just kidding. This is my template which I created by tracing the transom onto the OSB sheet and then cutting it out. Took a little shaping but got it to go in the transom just fine and very snug. I then used the OSB template to trace the cut onto my aruaco ply.

Pic 3 is of the finished two pieces of 3/4" aruaco ply after I wet them down with epoxy. It took all night with pan lights on them to get the epoxy cured.

Pic 4 is of the installed wood in the transom. Prior to putting it in I put a layer of epoxy on the inside wall of the inner skin and also put a layer of glass and epoxy at the inside base of the transom (at the bottom). Also notice the #10 1-1/2" stainless steele screws around the flange. That is what is going to secure what was the original transom/stern wall to the new wood.

Pic 5 is a closer shot of the screws in the transom flange through the new wood. I did this on the outside of the transom and on the other side putting screws through the inner skin the opposite way.

Pic 6 shows the screws continuing down the bottom of the flange all the way around to the other side.

Pic 7 is of the original outer skin of the transom installed. I put a layer of epoxy resin on the inside of it before I put it on. To secure it I put screws in it to the wood.

The remaining pics are of the side steer console. I decided to remove it since it was in bad shape. I picked up a center console with pretty much the same dimensions as the side steer console.

I will put some layers of glass on the outer skin of the transom next weekend. This glass will go over the screws and seal them in.

Let me know what you think so far.

Thanks,

IRBF.
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
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Messages
1,631
Re: Tri hull restoration project

Just link the image tag then the pictures will be in the thread.
 
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Messages
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Re: Tri hull restoration project

Well they say no news is good news, however in the case of a boat restoration I don't know if that's entirely true. Any opinions out there on my transom restore?


IRBF.
 

ricohman

Lieutenant Commander
Joined
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Messages
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Re: Tri hull restoration project

Wish I was more of an expert but I can't see some of the pics. Try what I said above. It really works well and the pics will be here for all to see. Click on the bottom box of the photobucket info and copy/paste into the message body. Same as your doing now, just the lower box info.
From what I could see I think your on your way but you are going to have to remove the gelcoat when you start blending in the new glass with the old. I'm not sure, but if you remove enough material in the cut it should be plenty strong but I don't know how you are going to make it smooth without 100's of hrs of additional work as the original was laid down in a mold. Most of the transom screws I've seen go in from the inside so I can't comment about them going from the outside in.
You are also going to have to make sure the transom in set at the correct angle as stated above or the boat is not going to track straight and plane properly.
For $200 maybe I would save what I could and start over with another project? I'm learning about this also and from what I've read the transom alignment is absolutely critical to how the hull is going to perform.
If you stick with it I will be watching and learning.
 
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Messages
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Re: Tri hull restoration project

Thanks for the advice ricohman on how to post the pics. I went ahead and posted all of them in order of what I started with to where I am now. I think I am going to persrvere with the project. I think the alignment of the new wood in the transom is as close to what it what was prior to me cutting out the original (hope so). I had an old timer who has done alot of this type of work come up and he looked at it and said that what I had would do just fine. We shall see. I will continue to post pics as they become available. This weekend i will sand the gelcoat off of the outer skin of the transom. I bought some biaxial cloth (not sure of the weight but very thick stuff) and some CSM (1.5oz). After the gelcoat is off I will put the CSM on first, then the biaxial.

I will then move to the inside of the transom (inner skin) and sand it down and clean it up. I will put complete the same process of putting down the CSM & biaxial on.

Once all is cured I have some SS 2 1/2" 10/32 bolts with two #10 fender washers (SS) for each with a lock #10 lock washer and #10 nut that I will put through the flange all the way around the transom. I will pre drill the holes and the bolt will go in from the outside. One of the washers will be on the outside of the transom and the remaining hardware put on the bolt from the inside of the transom (fender washer, lock washer, nut), and tighten it down. I will then lay some finish cloth on the outside of the transom, soaking it with epoxy (maybe 2 layers) to seal in the bolt head and fender washer. I will do the same on the inside of the transom over the other side of the bolts. Any excess bolt threads protruding out of the nut will be grind down before I lay the finish glass. This will seal the fender, lock washer, and nut on the inside of the transom. I will be sure to post pics once I complete this process.

Insideofinnerskincleaned.jpg

TemplateImadeoutofOSB.jpg

Cutaruacoandwetemdownwithepoxy.jpg

Installedwood.jpg

Screwedflangetowood.jpg

Putouterskinbackon.jpg
 
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