troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

[spit]

i'm having two issues with my '85 Johnson 30hp Seahorse. maybe they're related?
the first is that it's stalling in idle and low throttle.
the second is that the battery is draining and i suspect a short.

it sat for two years before i took it out last week. the first trip it ran great after it shook out the cobwebs...but when i was trailering to head home it stalled.

the second day i took it out it ran good the first half of the day and then started stalling at low speed and occasionally at full throttle and we had to pump the bulb all the way back to keep it going. also, when i got to the hose to clean it out i found the battery was dead.

i looked inside and noticed the main 5/16 fuel line looked like it was rotting. i replaced it. the next day we took it out and it ran great for half the day...but later on we were again pumping to get back. it bogged down as i was trailering and i tried to get it back on and once again...dead battery. wasn't trying to crank it too much.

when i hook up my little 1.75 amp cooler aerator to the battery i'm getting shocked pretty bad...so i guess there's a short somewhere.

in cranking the engine i'm noticing that it very slowly and quietly starts turning over as i'm cranking rather than just firing up.

i rebuilt the carb last night. it looked immaculate. no clogging in any of the visible jets and no gunk whatsoever. gaskets seemed new. got it back on tonight. took a minute to get fired up but it sounded pretty good. i messed around with the throttle linkage and low speed needle. the idle rpms came way down from where they were. idle sounds so much better. i'm not sure about what i was doing with the linkages...or if it might bog down when open the throttle.

so i'm thinking that the problem must lie in the mis-calibration of the linkages and sync. however, with the short happening simultaneously i was wondering if that sounded like a stator windings issue or something in the power head?

could someone guide me to the faq thread on link & sync that i've seen other threads referring to. or could someone explain what steps i should take with this johnson?

thanks for the help,
spit

 

[emoney]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

There's a sticky at the top of this forum titled, "Top Secret". There should be a link to the "link & sync" thread there. While you're at it, you might want to have a very close look at that fuel line all the way from the carbs out to the tank. There's a diaphram underneath the fuel pump, along with a filter screen. Just inspect/clean as necessary. As for the wiring issues, I'd reference the same sticky for hints about how to trace a short/etc. The "shock" in the bait well is not a good thing, and I'd maybe look there. I don't think a stator issue would cause the battery to drain, however, a bad charging system might.

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

thanks.
saw a timing thread, but no link/sync?

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

my spark plugs were seated against the cylinder with metal washers. are there supposed to be rubber gaskets between them?
just found the spark plug i pulled was burnt up and the electrode was cupped. under the spark plugs there is black oil that looks like it leaked from the holes.

 

[jasper60103]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

my spark plugs were seated against the cylinder with metal washers. are there supposed to be rubber gaskets between them?
just found the spark plug i pulled was burnt up and the electrode was cupped. under the spark plugs there is black oil that looks like it leaked from the holes.

Metal washers are correct. No rubber gasket.

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

so my motor was starting up fine after the carb rebuild.
i changed the spark plugs and now it is immediately bogging down after cranking.
only way i can get it to stay on for any extended time is by pressing in the key for electric prime.
water pump seems to be working fine when i try to start it but the lower unit seems to be heating up quick...maybe cranking does that?
any ideas what i should try next? seems like it might be something in the ignition...all i did was change the plugs...same number plugs. tightened quarter turn beyond hand tight.
my bulb is now firming up pretty tight when i prime..whereas it wasn't before the carb clean.
after i try to start it a few times it's still pretty tight...so it seems like fuel should be getting there. tried spraying wd-40 in the carb but it still shut down.

 

[Cofe]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

Make up a spray bottle of gas oil mix, and spray into the carb after starting. If it runs this way, then you have a fuel delivery problem.
Also try pumping the prime bulb after starting. If it runs while doing this, your fuel pump needs rebuilt.

 

[Borgey401]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

If you are having to keep pumping the priming bulb to keep the motor running then the fuel pump most likely is shot. I would take a look at that and rebuild it.

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

if it stayed on longer with the electric primer engaged does that mean it was pumping.
when i run it like this there is a ton of smoke.
how do you test and troubleshoot the fuel pump to see if it works. i don't think this particular fuel pump can be opened up and serviced beyond the wire screen and gasket.

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

is it possible that my kill switch could be engaged. if it was engaged would it crank up and immediately stall?
after i cleaned the carb everything seemed to be running great.
the only two things i did since that were change the spark plugs and then repair my throttle.
the choke lever broke and i had to weld it back. i spent an entire day trying to get the control box reassembled. i think wiring from the alarm may have been preventing it from closing.
i also noticed a grey wire that was not being used or grounded. i thought i'd go back in and figure it out, but after getting it back together finally i decided not to.
is it possible the kill could be engaged and would that be consistent with my symptoms?

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

how do you test the kill switch?
i read you remove the black and yellow at the power pack.
how do you do this since the wires there are all molded together?

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

boy am i missing my grandpa and brother right now. two mechanics in the family meant i never had to get grease on my hands growing up.

what i've done so far- rebuilt the carb. pulled it back out twice to double check jets and float position.
replaced first and larger fuel line in the motor...pulled the other smaller ones and held them up to the light to check for blockages without seeing any(would get new ones, but nobody in town stocks 5/32). checked lines for splits and trimmed off ends to assure they went back on with a tight fit.
checked fuel tank, lines, screen in tank...no blockage or splits. (borrowing a new tank tomorrow to test)
pulled primer line from carb and cranked...good pulsing stream. checked primary fuel line to carb while cranking...started spurting pretty strong...bogged down and battery died while doing this so i couldn't see how smooth it was coming through but it was definitely coming.

pulled off spark plug wire from top cylinder and cranked...wasn't sure exactly how to do the spark test when i did it so i left plug in and just pulled wire off. spark was flying from the ignition coil, through the wire sleeve, and to the hex bolt that secured the coil to the block. is that what it should have done? spark was very strong.
didn't get to the bottom one before the battery cut out again.

i got the cam roller to the center of the two marks like the manual says. when my choke lever broke, i think i welded it back on slightly off, so it threw off the cable travel a little. i adjusted with the idle stop screw until i thought the idle sounded good. i could get it to stay on after that for about 5 seconds before it bogged down. i've tried screwing in the idle low speed needle everywhere from 1/4 turn to 6 turns out...it doesn't seem to change anything about the way it's firing.
before i started working on it i was pumping the bulb to keep it running. now pumping the bulb has no effect and the bulb is usually firm and full when i try. if it starts it is immediately on the way to stalling...if i throw up the choke to keep it on the rpms jump up, but it still bogs down after about 5 seconds no matter what i do.
there's a lot of smoke and it seems like it would be flooded, but it won't start unless i pump it and the use the electric primer. the bulb is nice and tight and the pump seems to be pumping gas with decent force.

something i'm curious about...how can the tank, bulb and line be an issue in cases of immediate stalling? normally it will run for 3 minutes or more after the fuel line is removed.
and can i remove the spark plugs and reuse the crush washer so i can test them? or do i need a new crush washer every time i pull them off?

what other tests should i do? i'd like to try to figure out the nature of the problem before i buy a new battery or send it to a mechanic.

 

[spit]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

anyone help?

 

[jasper60103]

Re: troubleshooting '85 30hp Seahorse...stalling

Well, I would confirm/check spark for both cylinders with a spark tester. Only about $7 US. It should jump a 7/16" air gap, and the engine doesn't have to be running. Also, are your spark plugs wet?
You didn't mention compression? I would check compression as well. If you're in the US, you can borrow a compression tester for free at Autozone or Oreillys auto parts.