Re: Troubleshooting Overheating
You have to pull the whole pump. Sounds hot for raw water cooled to me. Also, I am not sure why a bad impeller would cool one side and not the other . . . You should change the impeller anyway along with the thermostat, but you have not diagnosed your overheat yet. My .O2.
Here's a C&P from the manual. I bolded my first thought although one side is usually hotter. Don't recall which one . . .
Engine Overheats (Cooling System)
Cause Special Information
IMPORTANT: The first step is to verify if the engine
is actually overheating or the temperature
gauge or sender is faulty.
IMPORTANT: Best way to test gauge or sender is
to replace them.
Loose or broken drive belt
Seawater shutoff valve partially or fully closed
(if equipped)
Clogged or improperly installed sea strainer
Loose hose connections between seawater
pickup and seawater pump inlet (models with
belt driven seawater pump only)
Pump will suck air. Pump may fail to prime or will
force air bubbles into cooling system.
Seawater inlet hose kinked or collapsed
Seawater pickup clogged
Obstruction on boat bottom causing water
turbulence
Obstruction will be in front of seawater pickup,
causing air bubbles to be forced into cooling
system
Defective thermostat
Exhaust elbow water outlet holes plugged
Insufficient seawater pump operation Worn pump impeller
Obstruction in cooling system such as casting
flash, sand, rust, salt, etc.
Refer to water flow diagram for engine type
being serviced
Engine circulating pump defective