Ujoints clunking?

[timharper89]

1997 rinker captiva 232 7.4l bravo 3. I can not read the serial number. I had some low growling coming from the rear last season during tight turns under load like tubing. I replaced the gimbal bearing this spring. The old one was greasable so I replaced it with a greasable one (sierra 18-21005). Now I am getting a clunking during tight turns. I ran it on muffs at idle and listened with a stethoscope. Steering wheel straight just a consistent whirring from the outdrive. Wheel turned all the way there was a light clunking noise coming from right where the ujoints are. Is there any chance the gimbal bearing was the wrong thickness? It looked the same as the one I pulled out to my eyes, but I don't know how much difference they would be, but i did have a hard time deciding which one to buy. Or are my u joints bad? They did have bit of rust on the outside. There was no water intrusion that I could find, so maybe previous owner(i bought it end of 2023)? They were also greasable, and I pumped them with grease when I changed and greased the gimbal bearing. They felt very smooth when manipulating them by hand

 

[alldodge]

Wheel turned all the way there was a light clunking noise coming from right where the ujoints are. Is there any chance the gimbal bearing was the wrong thickness?

No don't see that as the issue
You had noise under load, replaced gimbal and still have noise unloaded. I would say you need U-joints

The test for a gimbal bearing is, put fingers in bearing with drive off and rotate. If it feels smooth as silk, its ok

 

[timharper89]

No don't see that as the issue
You had noise under load, replaced gimbal and still have noise unloaded. I would say you need U-joints

The test for a gimbal bearing is, put fingers in bearing with drive off and rotate. If it feels smooth as silk, its ok

The noise changed from a growl to a clanking, so I was curious if i made something worse/ different. I was really hoping i didn't have to do the ujoints. Can I just replace the cross bearings?I have heard it may be possible to use automotive u joints for much cheaper than the $100+ for each u joint from merc. If so, what parts will fit?

 

[alldodge]

There are auto types for some
Do you know your drive serial number, or do the joints have inner or outer clips?

 

[tpenfield]

As stated, probably u-joints . . . Shop around for good quality at a good price. Many automotive style do not have the larger bearing surfaces, so they are not as strong and will wear out faster.

Here is a link to me replacing my Bravo 3 u-joints . . .
https://www.tpenfield.com/Formula330/OutDrive_U-Joints.html

 

[timharper89]

There are auto types for some
Do you know your drive serial number, or do the joints have inner or outer clips?

I do not see any clips on the outside. I can't read the serial number that is stamped behind the sticker on my drive, but it is old enough to have greasable gimbal bearing... the u joints installed are stamped "Singapore L15N1-1F". I saw a list of auto u joints that are supposed to wheel with some, but i don't know if the alpha u joints are the same as bravo. I haven't seen much info on whether they are the same or not.

 

[Scott06]

If you google that casting a bunch of threads will come up but here is one on offshore only - looks like it may cross to moog 315G , there are a bunch of cross refs in the thread including some stronger options Moog 246

Bravo U-Joints - Older Drive - Offshoreonly.com

General Q & A - Bravo U-Joints - Older Drive - Guys, my drive was making some rattling noises, and I narrowed down the issue to the u-joints. I'm pretty sure I can get these at a local auto parts shop, but having trouble searching. I had the drive off and u-joints removed in about 45 minutes so...

www.offshoreonly.com

on both my alphas I have used automotive ujoints no issue. I bought spicer ujoints for the moog 344 equivalents (outside clips) on my alpha gen 2. I think you are fine if you stay away from the ultra cheap ones. I would also stay away from the lubed for life ones. the permalube ones on my gen 2 at 300 hrs had significant wear on 1-2 legs of the cross on each joint. Out of the four caps on each 1-2 had black grease and ridges on the cross bearing surface. other ones the grease looked normal and no wear ...

If you get one off you can cross check the measurements.

 

[Chris1956]

Years ago, I needed to replace the ujoints on my Alpha 1. I took one of them to an automotive store and he matched it up to an auto ujoint in 30 sec. The difference was that the Mercruiser ujoint ($50 ea) had a larger inner race and smaller needle bearings, than the auto Ujoint ($12). Both were inner clips, if I remember correctly.

I used the auto ujoints for several years w/o issue and then sold the boat.

 

[timharper89]

Does it matter that ago these u joints seem to have the zirk in a different place? They are in between the cross instead of in the middle of the body. Some are on the bearing cap (moog 246).

 

[Scott06]

Does it matter that ago these u joints seem to have the zirk in a different place? They are in between the cross instead of in the middle of the body. Some are on the bearing cap (moog 246).

yes and no.... yes in that the zerk may hit or not be useable (on bearing cap), but there are work arounds

on the gen 2 I have to position the 90 deg zerk such that you cant get a grease gun on it to keep it from hitting as the joints fully articulate. Have to turn it about 30 deg when greasing. The ones on end cap dont fit but you can plug it and screw the zerk in when greasing.

also they make flush grease fittings that use a needle on end of grease gun

 

[timharper89]

I bought one of the u joints from the list in the sticky thread. Got the old ones out and noticed they don't look the same and are not the same size. The caps are the same. Is this going to be a problem? New on the left, old on the right.

 

[alldodge]

Old on right correct?
The issue will be not being able to grease it once installed

 

[timharper89]

Yeah old on the right. All the replacements listed on that sticky thread have the grease zirk right there...I guess i should just buy the right one or sealed? They also aren't the same size exactly. With the caps they are, but the c clip grooves are not the same distance apart. Wouldn't that be where they need to live up?

 

[alldodge]

Clip spacing is very important
Using sealed bearings is ok. Greasable ones don't seal as well as sealed ones, this allows them to be greased with excess being able to exit.

 

[timharper89]

I will try another option that ican find locally. I imagine cap diameter and clip spacing would be the most important factors?

 

[alldodge]

I will try another option that ican find locally. I imagine cap diameter and clip spacing would be the most important factors?

yes

 

[timharper89]

The ones I am finding are about 1mm wider at the snap ring groove. This probably needs to be the exact same, right?

 

[alldodge]

The actual width of the clips isn't the issue, the spacing between the outside of the clips when installed is. The clips will be against the inside of the yoke and there should be no space

 

[timharper89]

Aah. Makes sense. I was measuring the inside of the groove. Thanks for the visual

 

[nola mike]

Old on right correct?
The issue will be not being able to grease it once installed

At least on my alpha no problems greasing with the zerk in that location.