I used seveal other lists posted on websites including this one to try and come up with a list I can use for proper winterization. Do me and everyone else a favor an check it over and let me know what needs to be added taken out or changed. THANKS! 
<br /><br />Thanks to all who contributed to this list YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!<br /><br /> Preparing for Winterization <br />-Add fuel stabilizer on your last trip or before you trailer home so it has a chance to thoroughly mix with the gas.<br />-Run engine for approximately 15 minutes on muffs to ensure that the additives reach the gasoline in your fuel lines and to warm and mix the oil for changing, and flush the cooling system if you have been running in salt or brackish water. <br />-Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dipstick.<br />-Drain the oil using a hand help pump or an electric one and dispose of in a proper container.<br />-Install a NEW oil filter; and then fill the crankcase with oil.<br />-Start the engine and allow it to run at a high idle for a few minutes.<br />-Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dipstick.<br />-Clean the flame arrestor in solvent, and then blow it dry with compressed air. <br />-Restart the engine and have it running at approx. 900 rpm, spray fogging oil inside of the carburetor slowly until the engine stalls. <br />-Turn the key off. Replace the flame arrestor. -This coats the internal engine parts with oil.<br />-Remove all of the spark plugs and squirt Fogging oil into each cylinder. <br />-Replace water separating fuel filter. <br />-Drain the fluid from your engine block and manifolds, water pumps, and coolers. Frozen water will expand and crack your engine. <br />-While the water is coming out, keep sticking a piece of wire into the drain hole to make sure there is no sand plugging up the hole until it quits draining. Go to the next drain plug and do the same.<br />-Fill block, manifold, and circulating pump with propylene glycol antifreeze. <br />-Drain and replace the outdrive oil. <br />-ALWAYS have the stern drive down positon when storing for winter and draining<br />-Inspect belts and hoses. <br />-Grease sterndrive gimbal bearing and engine coupler. <br />-Clean any rusted areas on engine and touch up with paint or primer. <br />-Spray a good corrosion and rust preventive on the entire engine and electrical connections.<br />-Remove battery and store in safe, dry place. Check fluid levels. <br />-Put the battery on an automatic charger and charge it fully.<br />-Remove the prop and check for any fishing line around the prop shaft , clean and grease the shaft with a good quality marine grease prior to reinstalling the prop. If you notice nicks, dings or bends in the prop blades, now would be an ideal time to send the prop out to a prop shop for repairs.<br />-Inspect and lubricate steering and trim.<br />-Remove interior cushions and jumpseats and store in a cool, dry place. Otherwise, place cushions on end to allow sufficient ventilation. <br />-Cover the boat with a mooring cover after the interior has been allowed to dry out. The canvas will breathe and allow for sufficient ventilation of the interiors. Moisture and poor air circulation are the main reasons for rot and mildew. This can occur at any time of the year. <br />Block the trailer wheels so the tires are off the ground. This reduces tire deterioration. <br />-Loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.<br />-Remove the drain plug. <br />-Make sure that the tongue of the trailer is higher than the stern so that any water that does get in will drain out the back and not stay in and freeze
<br /><br />Thanks to all who contributed to this list YOU KNOW WHO YOU ARE!<br /><br /> Preparing for Winterization <br />-Add fuel stabilizer on your last trip or before you trailer home so it has a chance to thoroughly mix with the gas.<br />-Run engine for approximately 15 minutes on muffs to ensure that the additives reach the gasoline in your fuel lines and to warm and mix the oil for changing, and flush the cooling system if you have been running in salt or brackish water. <br />-Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dipstick.<br />-Drain the oil using a hand help pump or an electric one and dispose of in a proper container.<br />-Install a NEW oil filter; and then fill the crankcase with oil.<br />-Start the engine and allow it to run at a high idle for a few minutes.<br />-Stop the engine and check the oil level as indicated on the dipstick.<br />-Clean the flame arrestor in solvent, and then blow it dry with compressed air. <br />-Restart the engine and have it running at approx. 900 rpm, spray fogging oil inside of the carburetor slowly until the engine stalls. <br />-Turn the key off. Replace the flame arrestor. -This coats the internal engine parts with oil.<br />-Remove all of the spark plugs and squirt Fogging oil into each cylinder. <br />-Replace water separating fuel filter. <br />-Drain the fluid from your engine block and manifolds, water pumps, and coolers. Frozen water will expand and crack your engine. <br />-While the water is coming out, keep sticking a piece of wire into the drain hole to make sure there is no sand plugging up the hole until it quits draining. Go to the next drain plug and do the same.<br />-Fill block, manifold, and circulating pump with propylene glycol antifreeze. <br />-Drain and replace the outdrive oil. <br />-ALWAYS have the stern drive down positon when storing for winter and draining<br />-Inspect belts and hoses. <br />-Grease sterndrive gimbal bearing and engine coupler. <br />-Clean any rusted areas on engine and touch up with paint or primer. <br />-Spray a good corrosion and rust preventive on the entire engine and electrical connections.<br />-Remove battery and store in safe, dry place. Check fluid levels. <br />-Put the battery on an automatic charger and charge it fully.<br />-Remove the prop and check for any fishing line around the prop shaft , clean and grease the shaft with a good quality marine grease prior to reinstalling the prop. If you notice nicks, dings or bends in the prop blades, now would be an ideal time to send the prop out to a prop shop for repairs.<br />-Inspect and lubricate steering and trim.<br />-Remove interior cushions and jumpseats and store in a cool, dry place. Otherwise, place cushions on end to allow sufficient ventilation. <br />-Cover the boat with a mooring cover after the interior has been allowed to dry out. The canvas will breathe and allow for sufficient ventilation of the interiors. Moisture and poor air circulation are the main reasons for rot and mildew. This can occur at any time of the year. <br />Block the trailer wheels so the tires are off the ground. This reduces tire deterioration. <br />-Loosen tie-down straps to reduce stress on the hull.<br />-Remove the drain plug. <br />-Make sure that the tongue of the trailer is higher than the stern so that any water that does get in will drain out the back and not stay in and freeze
