updated:AQ125A overheating

[Bsturkie]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

Joe, <br /><br />I removed the throttle from the side panel for restoration. So the answer is I don’t know. It shifts forward/reverse fine, but I haven’t tried the drive disengage feature. Honestly, I didn’t know it had that. When working on the motor, I pull out the carter pen on the carb and hand throttle it. I will be happy to let you know when I have it back together. A note on your strainer housing, the housing has inset screw taps that look like they may be able to spin if they were overtightened in the past. This may be the case.Try to insert a small flat-head screwdriver between the bolt head and copper neck to put some pressure on it, then see if you can back it out. Splash it with WD. I need this part to, for mine has the cap threads broken off, so I have to duct-tape it. Bad news, the housing runs about $100-150 and the cap, $36!! Ha Ha Ain't this fun!

 

[JAL51974]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

I was afraid that was the case about the inset screw taps. Will try your suggestion today.<br />Did you look on Ebay for the housing?<br /><br />My manual is on order from a local dealer. Will definitely be needing it!<br /><br />Joe

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

The part number for that strainer housing is 831909 and list price is 137 bucks.<br />There are also some that look the same, but will not bolt up, so be careful what you find on ebay or you may be buying several.

 

[Mischief Managed]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

For a $137, I think I'd carefully try my muriatic acid trick in the boat with a hose handy to rinse off the acid as it bubbles over.<br /><br />That said, I'm 99% the copper pipe in that photo is the same diameter as 1/2" home plumbing pipe. If true, this means it can be cut and re-connected with a cheap and simple compression fitting. I know it's kinda half a**ed but it's a very inexpensive way out if the connection on the strainer housing does not leak and can be left as-is for now. If you ever wished to replace the strainer and wnated to make a permantent fix, you could just sweat a coupler onto the copper pipe. and it'll be good as new.<br /><br />

 

[Mischief Managed]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

Missed the part about the cap threads being broken... hmmm, good luck with that.

 

[JAL51974]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

update:
I couldn't remove the strainer housing so took the boat to a marine mechanic. He got it apart and cleaned out the heat exchanger, engine still overheating. He next checked for air leaks at hoses and from the outdrive, no results. Now he is looking at the water pump. this has taken almost 8 weeks. could only find a mechanic for old Volvos an hour away from my town & my boat is not his first priority apparently.

any suggestions?

 

[JAL51974]

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating

^ bump

 

[JAL51974]

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating

I took the boat back from the mechanic. He was "sure" It was the sea water pump and told me to get a new one and install. I took the pump apart, replaced parts and rebuilt it. Runs great but the boat still overheated.

Next step, I hooked up a vacuum to the water inlet copper pipe at the pump and taped shut the water intake on the drive. Put shaving cream on all the junctions I could find both inside and outside on that water line. I heard a distinct air sucking sound from the water inlet connection on the outdrive.

Now I bought all the seals/gaskets/o-rings to replace on the outdrive side of the system that affects water intake.
The drive bellows & exhaust bellows look and feel OK so I am not replacing them. The S-shaped water intake hose will be replaced since the end connected to the metal water intake junctions looks deformed and the clamp seems to be cutting into it on the edge.

How hard is this to do this maintenance myself? Really don't have any other option since I cannot find a VP mechanic within a 2 hr. drive. Any suggestions, things to watch out for? Thanks for the help.

 

[Bsturkie]

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating

Good idea about the shaving cream, I think your troubleshooting method is more sound then the so called mechanic you took it to. The hose connection to the outdrive, the little guy that the bottom of the S-hose is clamped to has a real problem of deteriorating and sucking air. Are you replacing this? It should have 2 hex head bolts that will allow you to remove and replace it. When you replace the S hose, I recommend you attach the top first with the drive tilted up, then work your way to the bottom. Use liquid dish soap for lube, it works great untill you try to clamp down the clamps with soap all over them. Anyway, I used a foot long piece of clear hose from Lowes, NOT for the S hose, but for the hose that connects the transom pipe with the copper pipe that leads into the sea water pump. This allows me to see if my motor is drawing water with a quick lift of the engine hump. Hope this helps, BTW, a buddy and I engineered a fix for the "broken thread" and poorly engineered seawater strainer housing. It includes 2 radiator clamps, 4 inches heavy dudy ratiator hose and a pressure fitted oil cap from a late 70s Cummings engine. Works better than factory!

 

[JAL51974]

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating

nice redesign on that strainer housing, do you have a pic?

I will take a look at that water connection fitting and replace if needed. Although I have not seen a metal part on this engine yet that has been deteriorated to that extent.

 

[JAL51974]

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating- SOLVED

Re: updated:AQ125A overheating- SOLVED

Thanks for all your help guys- this is the best forum! Over the last two seasons owning this old boat I have learned a lot and even with all the hard work, it's been great.

I replaced the s-shaped water intake hose, cleaned up the aluminum water fitting and replaced the special gasket-o-ring under the fitting. The old special gasket was so brittle it almost deteriorated in my hands, so that was the original source of the air leaking. the tricky part was doing all this without taking the upper part of the drive off, but I got 'er done. Its pumping water real strong and not overheating.

Thanks again to all who offered suggestions.8)

Joe

 

[setsail]

AQ125A overheating

AQ125A overheating

I've read the previous persons adventures with the AQ125A and I'm hoping I might get a little help with mine. I have rebuilt the raw water pump, checked the thermostat and am still having overheating problems. I spoke to a mechanic who seemed to know these systems and he suggested next cleaning the exchanger in place with muriatic acid via the raw water side. I plan to do this today. How important is it to have a sealed system from the raw water intake on the foot to the impeller? I don't believe this is my problem like the previous post because I have bypassed the foot and hooked the garden hose directly to the flex intake hose aft of the block and still am having the engine overheat at idle in less than 3 min from cold start. Is it ok to open the garden hose full with it connected to this flex hose? I have also wondered if the outflow of raw water is obstructed by the exhaust manifold but if I open the pitcock valve in the outflow copper tubing just before it reaches the manifold and run the engine I get a solid stream of water coming out. Any help would be great, also if you think I should get into the exhaust manifold and exchanger where is the best place to get replacement gaskets. Thank you for the help! Kyle

 

[Don S]

Re: AQ125A overheating

Re: AQ125A overheating

Start a new thread with your problem Kyle, or your question won't be seen by most of the people.

 

[setsail]

overheating

overheating

I'll do that, thanks.