Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Man that third pic looks like they just slapped some putty in there ??? how does it look from the out side ? John

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,
Looks like your project is moving right along. With that hole you show in the port side I would put a couple layers of cloth on it from the inside to repair it. start with a big piece extending past the hole and work down to small. Use the 1708 or seeing your using epoxy as Oops had pointed out to me you can just use something like 7533, it won't suck up as much resin. Do the same for the cut you put in the hull, 1708 or 7533 on the inside then fair the outside . As John pointed out that repair looks very poor, I would grind doen to solid glass and perform a proper repair

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Man that third pic looks like they just slapped some putty in there ??? how does it look from the out side ? John

There is a lot of putty and a lot of heavy (roving?) glass with huge air gaps under it. The bulkhead that used to go to the stern is snapped off. They bolted a second piece to it and ran it to the stern. Remarkably the outside looks really good, save for the hole, which i made with my finger, it seems pretty solid but has lots of spider cracking.

Hey Steve,
Looks like your project is moving right along. With that hole you show in the port side I would put a couple layers of cloth on it from the inside to repair it. start with a big piece extending past the hole and work down to small. Use the 1708 or seeing your using epoxy as Oops had pointed out to me you can just use something like 7533, it won't suck up as much resin. Do the same for the cut you put in the hull, 1708 or 7533 on the inside then fair the outside . As John pointed out that repair looks very poor, I would grind doen to solid glass and perform a proper repair

Hey Bill, good to see you. Yes, i'm going to start tearing it out tomorrow. Big dropping down to small for the glass pieces, eh? I was thinking opposite, glad you detailed that. I'll have to look up 7533, not sure what it is. I have some 6 oz. cloth and some 1708 on hand.

Bill, what do you use in your fairing compound? And peanut butter, for that matter?

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Got a second and third skin of marine tex over the holes i wanted to patch in the transom done today. Looks like all the holes are filled better than flush. Just need to sand it all down now. Here's a pic. I'll get another one after sanding.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey, did my first mixing of epoxy resin today. Made some peanut butter. It didn't go exactly as planned. It was too thin. I managed to get by with it. My goal was to fill in some chine areas that were low and not draining water properly. To fix some gouges caused by the grinder and to fair out the engine sole board. It had some unevenness from grinding. The glass previously on it was delaminated in spots so i ground it all out, including the engine mounting block. I cored a couple spots and things seem ok underneath. I also shoved some pb in the gouge i cut in the hull. I'm curious to see how it will sand. I used about a 3:2 ratio of milled fiber to phenowhatever micro balloons. I also have some cabisol on hand but didn't use it. I'm looking for suggestions on how to thicken this mix up for next time. I suppose the obvious is add more of each. I hope sanding it isn't a royal pain. The garage temp was 55 degrees when we started. It was 71 with the heater on, however 63 at hull level. I thing a fan would help this a lot. The cure was really slow. Anyway, here's a couple of pics.

 

[jcsercsa]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Looks good there steve !! I used a work light in mine and just left it going all night to make sure it cured !! did you get them spots ground ?? John

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Bill, good to see you. Yes, i'm going to start tearing it out tomorrow. Big dropping down to small for the glass pieces, eh? I was thinking opposite, glad you detailed that. I'll have to look up 7533, not sure what it is. I have some 6 oz. cloth and some 1708 on hand.

Bill, what do you use in your fairing compound? And peanut butter, for that matter?

Big to small is what I have read here and its also what the West system says to do, initially I was going to do it the other way around too. It has to do with stress points, and concentrated load. If you go small to big at each ending of the piece you will concentrating the stress. If you start off big, and reduce from there the underlying piece helps to disburse the load. 7533 is 6oz 5.85) cloth with a 18x18 thread count 250#/in what you have should be fine, its the thread and load to look at. I switched to that when the resin supply got low, with epoxy you really don't need the mat thats on the 1708. Oops or on the river can explain it a lot better than me hopefully they will chime in.

For PB I just use cabosil to thicken for fairing I use cabosil and glass bubbles. It all depends on what I am using it for, I also have been known to use epoxy sanding dust(clean no junk in it) for PB and sanding dust+ talc for fairing. Although I will probably get yelled at here for that

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Looks good there steve !! I used a work light in mine and just left it going all night to make sure it cured !! did you get them spots ground ?? John

Nope, did the pb and tex yesterday. May get to grinding that out today. I want to build some shelves, simple ones, in my boat work area. Its getting cluttered and i cant be having stuff like epoxy resin, Hardener, cabosil, acetone, blah blah unorganized and possibly accessible by my two and six year olds. That's the goal for today. Get some shelf space in and then start tearing out that corner. Maybe sand a little on that pb too to see how easy or difficult that is.

Big to small is what I have read here and its also what the West system says to do, initially I was going to do it the other way around too. It has to do with stress points, and concentrated load. If you go small to big at each ending of the piece you will concentrating the stress. If you start off big, and reduce from there the underlying piece helps to disburse the load. 7533 is 6oz 5.85) cloth with a 18x18 thread count 250#/in what you have should be fine, its the thread and load to look at. I switched to that when the resin supply got low, with epoxy you really don't need the mat thats on the 1708. Oops or on the river can explain it a lot better than me hopefully they will chime in.

For PB I just use cabosil to thicken for fairing I use cabosil and glass bubbles. It all depends on what I am using it for, I also have been known to use epoxy sanding dust(clean no junk in it) for PB and sanding dust+ talc for fairing. Although I will probably get yelled at here for that

Thanks for the explanation on hole patch. That makes sense now that i process the info.

I've read a lot by Oops! and Ondarvr about the mat/cloth and how you don't want resin rich areas on the hull. I understand that I don't really need mat, but I took Ondarvr and his advice and just decided to use the 1708 on the strings and transom for good strength and workability. Man, those two sure are a wealth of information on this stuff. Among many others here.

I wonder if I can get cabisol locally or have to order it.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

I did not want to do this. I really did not want to do this. But, I'm too far into this to not do it right. So, I did.

I was a little worried about the area under the sole plate the engine sits on. The engine mount was wet. I had cut it out. The plywood it set on had some glass delamination where the engine mount was cut off. The wood was a little damp. I ground it to where the glass was no longer delaminated and put some pb on it yesterday. Today i just had to know what was under there. So I cut that piece out and I found what I already suspected

The foam is wet. All of it. The glass is delaminated from the center stringer too. Major Setback!!. I'm not sure what to do now. I'm sure it goes forward under the fuel tank sole. I'm just not sure how far. That board is solid as a rock to stand on. So, I'm kind of at a loss as to what to do next. It's difficult to tell in this picture, but the center stinger is only about 2 1/2 inches high and the sole extended to contact the hull.

Here is my thought. With the boat (cap on) sitting on a roller trailer that I can't move I'm thinking i should frame up the area under the piece i just cut out. Next, proceed with the transom and two main stringers. Then, go back and chase this problem to its end.

I need advice from my friends at Iboats on this.

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,

Its hard to tell from the pic but before you go any further you want to make sure you don't deform or twist the hull. Doing this kind of work on a roller trailer and not a bunk can lead to problems. If it were mine I would get that transom in, then with 2x6 make a cradle to rest the boat on off the rollers. Even if you jack the boat up and run 2x down the length between the rollers then add some more bracing, you have to get some good support under her.

Oh, BTW I was looking some pages back that section of the dash you have a pic of with what looks like 2x4 ends looks like balsa core. Lots of manufactures use it instead of ply for making panels, decks, hulls etc....

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Bill,

I'll a pic of under the trailer.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Here are a couple pics from under the trailer. I have no idea how to support it from under there. aside from maybe 2 x 6 over the rollers so it is "bunked" so to speak. The boat is really shoe horned in there. It does not fit out the little door. So moving it in an out is quite an ordeal.

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,
I would do something like this

the pic below shows what I did on the one boat

I actually added more bunks than are in the pic, but you get the idea.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Bill,

Thanks for the drawings!! Lets say I want to pull it out of the garage and build a bunk and roll the bunk back into the garage. This would save me a lot of garage space since i could go straight in and out the little door. How do i get it off the trailer and onto the bunk?

Edit: I'll have to do this eventually. Right now, I think i can brace it using the trailer frame and wood like you showed. I found 8 adjustable feet from a machine i retro fitted at work. I knew those would come in handy some day.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Little break today to stop at HD and pick up some 2 x 8 and 2 x 6 for bracing up her hull. Hope to get that done tomorrow. At least a good start on it. Now where is my bottle jack!!!

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Help!!! This isn't going as planned.. There are some things going on that I don't understand and I need the Iboats crew to set me straight. I started to put some bunks under the hull like Bill suggested. Got the lumber. Jacked the boat up. Thought i had things spaced properly. and this is the result........

As you can all see, it isn't tight up to the bottom at the stern.

Starboard

Port



Now, if i jack both boards up tight to the hull it looks good........

Until you go forward on the hull and see that there is now a big gap developing

I thought that i could use the space between the rollers to coutour the bunks to the bottom of the boat apparently not. The question is WHY? And what is the solution?

 

[HVAC Cruiser]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Hey Steve,

Looking at your pics I see you have the wood all doubled straight across. this is probably why you have the space that grows, the hull is curved. If you look at the pic I posted you see I have a single that is braced at points for support. Try just blocking at the rollers leaving the 2x single so the weight of the hull has it form the contour than brace in spots underneath for support.

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Ok bill, i'll give that a shot. Here i thought the overkill would be a good thing, sigh

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Could not get on the boat today. Pesky customers! Not tomorrow either. Going to ohio for work then softball. So, saturday it is.

John, thanks for the call. I'll give you a ring tomorrow!

 

[83mulligan]

Re: Upon Further Review..#$%@..1973 Slickcraft Trans/String Overhaul

Update: I'm still struggling with this. I can't get that support board to conform to the boat. Something about the way it lays in the four rollers binds it and it won't form to the boat on the back end. I have tried shimming it on the ends to drive them up and it just isn't working.

I think my next step is to cut a kerf in the board between the two sets of rollers and let it take shape that way. I'm pulling my hair out otherwise. Any advice? Here is a pic of what it looks like...............

and with shims........