Upper bearing carrier Bearings

[ChrisCraftFan]

Okay. So i was cleaning the upper carrier after removing the gears. The race fell out. So I am planning on new bearings in there. I took the numbers off the bearings as SKF 31307J2/Q. And KOYO 30207JR. Anyone see an issue ordering them directly>. The SKF is the same number and is $45. Verses $150+. From Volvo. The numbers are the numbers right?

 

[Yegboats]

Yeap the OEMs just slap their part numbers on sks koyo timkens. I ordered in an OEM bearing once and it was a common wheel bearing about 5 times the price.

 

[jimmbo]

I know the Forward Roller Bearing in our 1957 Evinrude 35 HP Gearcase was the same one used in the Front Wheel Bearings of 1960s - 70s Chev 1/2 ton trucks

 

[jerryjerry05]

Might help letting us know what your working on?

 

[ChrisCraftFan]

Its a 2000 5.7GSi PEFS with a DP-SM.

 

[ChrisCraftFan]

I am now thinking I need to redetermine the shims needed since i am changing the bearings out on this upper carrier. Anyone know the best method to do that? What else to check?

 

[billbayliner]

I have not posted here in probably a year or less, but stated reading different threads and after reading this thread there are concerns!.....

First off.... Races DO NOT fall out.... You have an ISSUE.... I did rebuild an SX lower a few years back that I needed to use a bearing retaining compound.... but with that said, I have never had to use it to this day in drive gear assembly..

Second..... Not an upper carrier you pulled apart.... It is the drive gear assembly..... Absolutely no need to tear down unless it has had trauma.....

Third, I use either SKF or Timkens.... Easy right???? Wrong... There are so many fraudulent copies of bearings anymore that I now try and find "NEW OLD STOCK" bearings unless I can purchase at a counter in a reputable establishment.... They are putting holograms on boxes now...

No shimming will not change.....

BUT with that said..... How much experience you have setting the drive gear bearing rolling torque / Pre-load? Pretensioning sleeve / Crush sleeve CANNOT be re-used.... Do you have the specialty tools?

Not trying to be an ass here.... Only trying to make sure you accomplish the task and get back on the water...

I did make a video about 10 years ago to set bearing pre-load or as Volvo calls it rolling torque, but it was on the AQ series.... Which is IDENTICAL to the SX-M / DP-SM except the large housing.... This procedure uses a spring scale.... I no longer even use that procedure on the the Volvo drives anymore.... I use the procedure explained in the SX-M / DP-SM FACTORY manual.....

I will try and help.... Thus passing on the help I received from all the old boys when I was apprenticing 20 years ago... All up to moderators whether my email removed.... VolvoPentaParts@hotmail..... On vacation right now.... replies may be at odd hours but I always try and help

 

[ChrisCraftFan]

Well that scares the crap out of a guy!

I understand Races don't fall out. That would be why I am replacing it. No signs of it spinning so looks like a caught it before that happened.

Sorry if i called it the wrong thing. The manual calls it a pinion Carrier. I considered the drive gear assembly to be the driven gears and cone clutch and such. I am not taking that apart, no need as far as I can tell. I guess I was wrong calling it the upper carrier. It has to be taken apart to replace the seal. Mine was leaking. Not really catastrophic, but needs to come apart. Turns out that may have been a good thing considering the race came out.

A guy needs to be cautious of knock offs. but a TRUE SKF bearing is an SKF bearing right?

As for shimming I will be checking anyway. I can certainly imagine a case where that would change ever so slightly with new bearing sets. wont hurt to check it right? are you implying I don't need to check it? I do have a depth micrometer so it doesn't seem to hard to do.

Not a lot of experience with rolling torque. but have done rear ends and this seems easier Yes I have a new bolt and crush sleeve. According to the manual the inch pound torque wrench is all i need. Is there something else? maybe some blue lock tight.

I certainly don't consider you as *** I appreciate any advice i can get. With that said, this post seemed to try to make me feel like an idiot rather than to help me with the process. Maybe more constructive would be nice, but I appreciate the input anyway.

I would love to see that video clip if you still have it. although if it is not the correct method, I'm not sure it will help a lot. any chance you have one for the procedure in the manual using an inch pound torque wrench?

Would appreciate any help I can get.