Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

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AlTn

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

not following you on this one, boobie
 
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boobie

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

On the side of the round part of the puller where you put the bolts through and thread into the flywheel there is a hole to put this bar in. When you have the center screw in trying to remove the f/w, you hold the bar to counter-act the pressure you're putting on the center screw. And not with a flywheel holder.
 
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Haffiman

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

boobie said:
On the side of the round part of the puller where you put the bolts through and thread into the flywheel there is a hole to put this bar in. When you have the center screw in trying to remove the f/w, you hold the bar to counter-act the pressure you're putting on the center screw. And not with a flywheel holder.
Click to expand...

Unless you put the flywheel holder around the puller disc.
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

I just tried again, now 3 nights, and that center bolt won't go beyond a certain point. I'm concerned I'll strip those aluminum threads in the flywheel. I've used an air impact wrench, a regular impact driver and socket and breaker bar. That wheel is pressed on, but good.

Here's a pic of the puller I'm using. The bolts go in about an inch. The stator below the flywheel can't be damaged because the bolt holes have seats at the bottom. That would mean that Grade 8 bolts and not shouldered bolts should be OK.

I'm trying hard but getting nowhere. Seriously, do I just need to grab that breaker bar and go all out for it?
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boobie

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Tighten the center bolt as tight as you can get on the puller. Then get a crow bar under the flywheel and apply pressure and at the same time give the center bolt in the puller a good wack with a hammer. Rotate the flywheel and try this at different points.
 
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boobie

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Haff, the puller disc doesn't have teeth in it for a regular flywheel holder. Only a strap wrench might work.
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Whacked it with a hammer a good fifty times. On the fifty-first, it popped right off.

Should I have been hitting it harder all along? I whacked it with a five pound hammer and an impact driver last night and nothing happened. Anyway, success finally. Who knows.

Thanks to everyone here for the good advice. Off comes the stator tomorrow, then I'll finally assess the damage.
 
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boobie

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Did you use the crow bar trick ??
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

OK, I have that flywheel off. Just whacking it while pulling seemed to do the trick. Though I did rap it from the underside very lightly with a wood block, so that may have helped, too. I couldn't find a leverage point for a crow bar, but it sure popped up with that whack.

What confuses me a bit is this: There is absolutely no gasket or rubber seal under that head bearing. In fact, that head bearing just looks like something to aid in the starting of the motor and for the flywheel operation. Looking down into the crankshaft area, it's dry as a bone and almost looks sealed tight.

In other words, OK the head bearing assembly was loose, but I can't really tell what kind of problem was afoot other than a rattling head bearing.

All in all, that old factory recall that said "non-injury recall" or something like that, seems to have played it all down for the reason that it's not a major issue? Confusing to me.

Finally, I got that sheared bolt out, and of the 8, that is the only one that showed any lock-tite still remaining. The bolt holes in the head bearing assembly were, in fact, "oblonged," so I guess I have no choice but to pay $350 for a new one.

I hope I can handle the timing. I'll check that SELOC manual I have. And I hope I can use by old timing screw assembly. I guess I'll need a new bearing as well.

Anyone know the correct torque specs for those 8 head bearing bolts, and where I could look?

Thanks again for all the help.
 
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daselbee

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Regarding your comment about gaskets....there is a large o-ring that is supposed to be installed. Was that gone? If so, how could #1 ever have run right.....

I would go to a salvage yard and get a used crankcase head from them, instead of buying new from BRP.
 
clanton

clanton

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

If the bolt holes are not too large, you could drill them round, and use a steel insert to bring down to size. Insert could be made from steel tubing

I would also check the recirlating hoses. Some of these engine uses this hose to lubricate the top bearing.
I can get you the torque specs.
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

daselbee said:
Regarding your comment about gaskets....there is a large o-ring that is supposed to be installed. Was that gone? If so, how could #1 ever have run right.....

I would go to a salvage yard and get a used crankcase head from them, instead of buying new from BRP.
Click to expand...

Yes, sorry. There was a hard plastic ring around the bottom of the head bearing assembly. I was expecting a paper or rubber gasket or rubber o-ring; this thing is hard plastic, and it is split. I need to use my magnifyers to see if it broke or is supposed to be split. I can't see how hard plastic seals anything, but maybe so.
 
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Haffiman

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

Check the parts list link I posted earlier. No 'plastic' ring, but are the two O-rings #6 there?
 
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daselbee

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

This bearing carrier/crankcase head is about 4-5 inches in diameter.
It has two grooves in it for the placement of large o-rings as Clanton has mentioned.

It almost seems as if we are talking about some different part. What plastic ring?

Are you describing the opening where the crank nose passes thru? There are seals in there, about 2" in diameter, and the upper bearing.

And Clanton is again on top of it...his recommendation to check the hose from #6 (bottom of crankcase) up to #1 (top of crankcase) is a very good one. There is a plastic check valve in that line down near the bottom fitting. If that valve clogs, you will not lube the 100 dollar bearing that resides in the crankcase head.
 
clanton

clanton

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

The plastic ring is probley the timer bushing.
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

YES--I'm wrong. My head bearing assembly has the two rubber seals tightly fitted into the casing. I'll get new ones.

That plastic ring actually goes on the bottom of that timer base or bushing that sits under the flywheel inside the head bearing, just as you said, Clanton.

My mechanic (he's good but doesn't specialize in boats) says my head bearing is too good to toss, but he's expressing surprise that the head bearing would simply be fitted with bolts. He's asking, "Aren't there any metal dowels or pins that line it up better? How could the manufacturer have relied solely on the bolts since the assembly could drift over time? Is this some manufacturing defect that is resolved only by carrying around a thin 3/8" box wrench and checking torque every few months?
 
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KVH

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Re: Upper Head and Bearing Assembly Problems--I Think (Loose Bolts)

OK, I'm finally ready to reassemble. I've got new bolts and o-rings were fine, and the bolt holes really aren't that bad. Just got back from the machine shop and I'm ready to go. Haven't been to the lake in a YEAR!

Last questions: I assume I should use some gasket sealer on that flange between the bearing head and crankcase?
What about grease on those O-Rings? Is that required?
Is the torque on those bolts (the 8 on the head bearing) really just 8 to 10 pounds? That sounds OK, but a bit light.
140 Pounds on that flywheel nut sounds high, but with my wife's help I should be able to do it.

Thanks guys!!
 
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