us composites 1708

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Exotic4x4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
118
Hi all few questions for the guys that used 1708.. from the research I've done all I really need to glass the stringers in is 1708. Chop strand on the bottom and roven on the top. I'm not an expert on glassing materials. But what I was thinking of doing is bedding my stringers in pl premium..and taking a spoon maybe use some acetone to make my transition. I'd rather not use PB or resin jelly trying to keep my expee down, and use the 1708 for tabbing. Also I had a original post where the glass was being heived I would like to add an additional stringer on both sides for structural rigidity. I was also thinking of glassing the whole inside of the boat. Has a thin hull to begin with. Would a few layers of 1708 work to "beef up" the thin factory glass? Or what do yo suggest? A heavier roven mat from us composites? My boat is a 79 bayliner mosquito 16' closed bow. I was going to order 10 gallon of resin for sure and what you guys suggest for mat. Thank you
 
Woodonglass

Woodonglass

Supreme Mariner
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Dec 29, 2009
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25,929
Re: us composites 1708

First off...why the multiple posts? As for the 1708, the CSM that is sewn to the back, the top is not woven it is biaxial. This configuration makes it easy to conform to irregular shapes. The CSM used is very thin and IMHO and multiple other glassers, is that it is not adequate for a good bond. That's why everyone I know suggests a first layer of 1.5 oz CSM and then the 1708. Some use layers of CSM between every layer of 1708, others do not. I do. PB is Cheaper than PL. PL Takes a minimum of 72 hours (3 Days) to cure before you can glass over it. PB takes 30 mins. Your reference to a previous post is a good example why it's best to keep all your posts in one thread so everyone can understand what you are talking about. You can use a layer of CSM and a Layer of 1708 to "Beef Up" the hull 6-7 yards of CSM and 1708 will required 2-3 gallons of Resin to wet it all out plus the costs of the mat and cloth. Prolly run ya somewhere around $150 to get it done.
 
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Exotic4x4

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Jul 19, 2011
Messages
118
Re: us composites 1708

First off not trying to be rude, I would appreciate the indirect slandering to be kept to yourselves. This was a specific question regarding 1708 on rebuilding hull strength. Didn't necessarily pertain to my thread specifically. It was a vauge general question. But from now on o will post any thought or question in a single thread.
 
jigngrub

jigngrub

Fleet Admiral
Joined
Mar 19, 2011
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8,155
Re: us composites 1708

red_fx4 said:
I would like to add an additional stringer on both sides for structural rigidity. I was also thinking of glassing the whole inside of the boat. Has a thin hull to begin with. Would a few layers of 1708 work to "beef up" the thin factory glass? Or what do yo suggest? A heavier roven mat from us composites? My boat is a 79 bayliner mosquito 16' closed bow. I was going to order 10 gallon of resin for sure and what you guys suggest for mat. Thank you
Click to expand...

I think these questions are pretty specific to your resto project, don't you?
 
carribbean soul

carribbean soul

Petty Officer 2nd Class
Joined
Mar 19, 2012
Messages
176
Re: us composites 1708

On my restoration (24'cc) I have found each layer of 1708 equals 1/16". I put down 1 layer and stood on the hull still flexed so I upped the schedule to 4 layers now its rock hard. Stringers on top of that with the tabbing I will be close to ? inch hull thickness with epoxy and 1708, this will be stronger than the woven roving I pulled out.
 
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