Used Bravo 3, what to look for?

metsfan3197843

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going to look at a used Bravo 3 a guy has had on a pallet in his shop for quite a few years. It was from an outboard conversion which I believe as it comes with everything from inner transom plate to props. 500 bucks seems like a good deal. Just want to be sure it’s not toast. Besides pulling the oil drain and checking condition of the oil what else should I look for?

Thanks
 

AShipShow

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ask if you can pressure test it. make sure it shifts easily, spin the input shaft by hand, should rotate freely, check for any play in the input and output shaft (in/out, diametric). Also, check the anodes, if they are almost shot, theres a chance there could be corrosion on internal stuff.

I'm sure theres other stuff that people will chime in with.
 

metsfan3197843

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Lol I short circuited from my brain to my fingers. What I meant to ask was did the Bravo 3 come with different pitched props or is it the same dual prop and just different ratios in the drive. Sorry that’s what happens when I try to post using my phone I guess😜
 

alldodge

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Lol I short circuited from my brain to my fingers. What I meant to ask was did the Bravo 3 come with different pitched props or is it the same dual prop and just different ratios in the drive. Sorry that’s what happens when I try to post using my phone I guess😜

Yes to both props and ratios, there are different ones

Props from about 18 to 30 pitch

Ratios
Bravo gear ratio.jpg
 

alldodge

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My thought with your boat/motor/drive combo I would say you probably had a 2.2 drive, and the highest would be 2.0

5235 dry weight
 

metsfan3197843

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My thought with your boat/motor/drive combo I would say you probably had a 2.2 drive, and the highest would be 2.0

5235 dry weight

Thanks for the info got home and right you are 2.2 ratio on the drive. Smart man👍
 

Devil_Inside

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$500 is a gift for a Bravo 3.... If it were me, I would do a quick visual inspection to make sure there isn't excessive galvanic corrosion, then I would pull the drain plug to make sure the gear oil isn't full of water, and I would quickly give the guy $500 before he changes his mind. You can't even buy the props for $500...
 

Devil_Inside

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ask if you can pressure test it. make sure it shifts easily, spin the input shaft by hand, should rotate freely, check for any play in the input and output shaft (in/out, diametric). Also, check the anodes, if they are almost shot, theres a chance there could be corrosion on internal stuff.

I'm sure theres other stuff that people will chime in with.

Bravo 3's don't shift easily, as a matter of fact you are not even supposed to shift them without the engine running. Also it is normal for the anodes on a Bravo 3 to look rough, particularly in salt water. I change mine every season. If there were any corrosion it would be on the outside, not on the inside. You will only get corrosion on the inside if water found it's way in due to a bad lower seal.
 

HT32BSX115

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In 2006, I paid $5000 for a complete 1997 7.4L + 1.81:1 ratio Bravo III package.......with only about 180hrs since new from the original owner.

If you can get a usable Bravo III + transom mount that is NOT a corroded mess (for $500) , GRAB IT QUICKLY!
 

AShipShow

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Bravo 3's don't shift easily, as a matter of fact you are not even supposed to shift them without the engine running. Also it is normal for the anodes on a Bravo 3 to look rough, particularly in salt water. I change mine every season. If there were any corrosion it would be on the outside, not on the inside. You will only get corrosion on the inside if water found it's way in due to a bad lower seal.

Wasn't aware of the hard shifting thing. And when I meant internal corrosion, I guess I should have clarified... I meant more in the exhaust passage, bearing carrier, etc...
 

alldodge

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They shift easy, but do need to rotate the drive shaft some while changing gears. This allows the sliding clutch to move up/down as gears change
 

metsfan3197843

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Great info. Trying to schedule a time to check it out and see what ratio it is. I'm only interested in this as a spare, my Bravo is in good shape but would be nice to have a back up in case I needed it during our short summer season. Thanks everyone
 

Scott06

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Google bravo 3 corrosion and see some of the issues people have had especially with the earlier ones that only have one annode under the cavitation plate. The prop hub can corrode and crack by the bearing carrier. I suspect at a price that cheap it is junk or almost junk. I think my buddy who had to replace his lower housing paid $600 for a good lower housing only. Could be a good deal but beware if it has fresh paint and someone filled the pitting with JB weld and and a can of rustoleum.
 

alldodge

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It could be a Gen 1 B3, which means it has a add on rear vent plate to the upper section. I have one of these and took it off my cruiser when I went to XR drive
 

metsfan3197843

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Google bravo 3 corrosion and see some of the issues people have had especially with the earlier ones that only have one annode under the cavitation plate. The prop hub can corrode and crack by the bearing carrier. I suspect at a price that cheap it is junk or almost junk. I think my buddy who had to replace his lower housing paid $600 for a good lower housing only. Could be a good deal but beware if it has fresh paint and someone filled the pitting with JB weld and and a can of rustoleum.

It's been on a pallet for some time judging by the pictures. It was clearly removed for an outboard conversion. One of the reasons its so cheap is there are maybe 5 people on island that would be interested in it. 90 percent of sport boats around here are running outboards....there is no market and it would cost more than it's worth to ship it to the mainland. The joys of island life....

If I can ever get a hold of the guy I'll give it a solid look over, especially the points you brought up
 

DouglasW

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Bravo 3's don't shift easily, as a matter of fact you are not even supposed to shift them without the engine running. in due to

I found that out the first time I remove the drive for inspection. After assembly, I wanted to make sure the shift cable was attached properly and tried to shift it without the engine running. No dice. I panicked a bit and rechecked my work. Then I reasoned that the engine had to be turning the input shaft for it to work, tried it again and all was well.
 

metsfan3197843

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And after all that it turned out to be a Bravo 2 instead of a 3😜😜

thanks for the info anyways guys. Much appreciated
 

HT32BSX115

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And after all that it turned out to be a Bravo 2 instead of a 3😜😜

thanks for the info anyways guys. Much appreciated

If you can get a good condition Bravo II + transom mount, you should still grab it. It's worth a LOT more than $500!
 
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