Vibration when turning

ranger481vs

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I agree. After looking at it more closely, this morning, I only needed to compress it 2-3 more mm to install the clip, but couldn't do it. So, I'm thinking maybe a pin didn't drop and that it's the part itself. Especially, since I ended up with the same issue for both parts. Weird that I was able to press the first two, opposing cups in just fine though.
 

ranger481vs

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I tried pushing out that cup that was giving me trouble, but I'm having the same trouble in reverse. It's not budging, and I double-checked that the opposing clip was removed. Not sure how to get it out yet. I also tried getting the first cross out closest to the drive, and wasn't having luck there either. I may have to take this to an auto repair shop to pop them out and maybe install the news ones, assuming they fit.

Wonder if I'm doing something wrong on installation. After I got a cup pressed in far enough, I would go ahead and install the clip right away. I'm assuming that's okay, but maybe not. Also, for trying to remove, I only removed the 2 clips that were in the direction that I was pressing. I did not remove the clips in the perpendicular direction, as I was going to do that later, when pressing in that direction.
 
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Rick Stephens

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I use a ball joint press and an adapter I built to straddle the tabs on the nut. I've never had to push too hard on a Merc constant velocity joint. Truck and tractor joints, yeah. Had to apply some heat to a few of those. You may need to heat up the outer portion of the yoke to expand it a little to get a too tight cup out. Even a propane torch will work for that.
 

ranger481vs

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I tried to bring it into an auto shop, but they didn't want to touch it. I will try the heat approach to see if that helps. I have a bottle of MAPP gas that I could use. How long do I need to heat the yoke up for? Then, I just try pressing the cups out again with my C-clamp? I could use any tips you have, as I have never used heat to help with removing things.
 

tpenfield

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We need to see some pictures at this point.

trying to imagine the situation you got yourself in.

no exact science on heating the yoke, you just need to expand the metal a wee bit.
 

ranger481vs

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Okay, I have the new joints installed and lubed, as well as the spline.

Getting ready to reassemble, but wondering is there a trick for keeping the small black water intake gasket in place? The Bell housing only has a slight depression where the gasket fits, and the gasket keeps falling off.
 

Bondo

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Ayuh,..... I use grease,..... Most use bellows adhesive, aka; contact cement, weather strip adhesive,....
 

ranger481vs

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Thank you for that tip. I have everything put back together, and plan to test the steering tomorrow. Since I experienced the vibration when turning at idle speed, I imagine I can test this in my driveway with the muffs on, correct?
 

tpenfield

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What was the story with the u-joints and how did you get it all resolved?
 

ranger481vs

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Ok, thanks for confirming. I'll head to the lake to test it. Fingers crossed

For the u-joints, I applied heat to get the crosses out. I also bought a proper u-joint press, which was much easier to work with than the c-clamp. I cleaned the ears more thoroughly and the new crosses went in relatively smoothly. The cups on the original crosses spun around smoothly as far as I can tell, so I will be pleasantly surprised if this actually fixes the issue. Either way, I got a little more familiar with the drive and now I have greasable u-joints.

I double-checked the gimbal bearing again, and it spins consistently and smooth, so I decided to leave that alone for now.
 

Rick Stephens

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GREAT!

Fingers crossed for you. My bet it runs perfect.

Sorry I disappeared on ya for a couple days. Took my kid's stuff off to school 500 miles away. Quite the drive to deliver what will soon be a serious dorm disaster zone :^)
 

Bondo

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The cups on the original crosses spun around smoothly as far as I can tell,

Ayuh,..... To see the wear, ya gotta take the caps off, wipe the cross bearin' surfaces clean, 'n look for little tiny ridges on 'em,.....
 

ranger481vs

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Tested it on the water, and still have the vibrating noise. I took video of it for reference, link pasted below. Couple of thoughts. One, I have not checked my engine alignment yet, need to get that tool. That may have been the first thing I should have done, but it will be the next thing...

Also, I have a SS prop that is little bit dinged on the edges, but not horrible. Pic enclosed. Next time I test, I will use the aluminum prop that came with the boat.

If the engine alignment proves to be okay, I could consider replacing the gimbal bearing even though it appears smooth and consistent.

Any thoughts?

https://youtu.be/djfb5NT-Hk8
 

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tpenfield

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Is it more noise or vibration? You could replace the gimbal and do the alignment. Definitely replace the prop, maybe do that first, since it is the easiest thing to do.
 

ranger481vs

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I notice the noise more, but there is vibration that coincides. I will test with the aluminum prop, kicking that I didn't think of that before yesterday's test.
 

KJM

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yeah, i replaced mine with automotive about 3 years ago and haven't had an issue since. much cheaper!
 

ranger481vs

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2nd test, this time using my like new, aluminum prop, and I still have vibrations when turning. Contrary to what I said before, the vibration is what is noticeable, and not really noise.

One other issue was belt squealing in the beginning. It did it a couple minutes after I idled away from the dock, and then later as I was adjusting the trim while idling too, then it went away. This may be a separate thing, but thought I would mention it.

I watched several videos regarding bad gimbal bearing, my bearing seems okay, so I'm inclined to think that if not the issue.

Still need to check the engine alignment once I get that tool, but are there other things that could cause vibrations when turning that I should be looking into?
 
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