Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

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brdmh44

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Ahhh yes it is the 460 Ford cut in half - I did rebuild one of these motors 3 years ago- If you have problems finding oil seals look for a business called "motion industries" they had a few seals I need in-stock and were high quality, and best of all CHEAP :)

Since he is boring your motor over and your replacing two pistons you have a couple options to avoid paying for a balance job OR read what I posted below:

1: have him find 2 pistons that are heavier than what you have now, balance the two new pistons to the old pistons your re-using

OR

I'd say to just replace all four, it is most certainly easier on the motor, everything is the same and the biggest factor with be quench.

Look at it this way -

When a piston is in the bore it could be 20 thousandths "in the hole" it could be "zero decked" or it could be 50 thousandths in the hole.

This can present a whole lotta problems

1. Your compression will be different from cylinder to cylinder which may create a negative vaccum and a rough running motor

2. The flame travel could be different casuing 2 cylinders to make to motor run like your re-tarded or over advanced with detonation depending on your base timing and advance curve.

3. Cylinder temperatures and EGT's (exhaust gas temperature) would be different from cylinder to cylinder - this can cause head gasket failure and or worse a cracked head.

4. This may also cause a power loss due to an im-balance in motor operation - with two cylinders firing differently from the other two it may change the power output (this has alot of factors involved, not up for typing it out right now)


I'm pretty sure you get the point.

As for the headgasket I used a Fel-Pro M.L.S. (multi layer steel) head gasket for better sealing and heat control.



Here is the difference between certain machine shops

some RE-BUILD others DESIGN

Essentially a motor is a motor correct? What alot of people don't factor in is the harsh enviroment, consistently high RPM, high oil temps, fast RPM rises and drops etc...

When a marine engine is gone through it needs to be re-designed in a sense so it can withstand the conditions and vigors of the tasks at hand specifically four cylinders -- with less cylinder and displacement they work harder with less torque, run rougher, and and have to oversome more obstacles than a V-6 or V-8 will.

Careful planning and a machinist who understands your goals will be the ticket to a well thought and designed motor that will withstand many seasons and/or hours with no problems.


It sounds to me like you found that person and I wish you good luck and happy boating with your build.

If you need anymore assistance please ask or send a PM

--Brad
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

the quench is only necessarily important when compression is over 10.5:1 and detonation may be an issue...

Quench is basically controlling the flame front as to not pre-ignite the gasses...

1 more thing I forgot earlier and is real important...if you opt for Hyperutectic pistons you WILL need to cut the ring gaps...you will need to open them up quite a bit...more so for an engine that sees higher rpm....

the silicone in the pistons transfers the heat absorption from the piston to the rings...if you dont cut them they can/will seize.....

"The part number for the thicker head gasket kit is 27-94954A1 and MerCruiser claims it will reduce the compression ratio on a new engine from 8.8:1 to 8.2:1. Reducing the compression pressure in this engine is good practice as fuel quality seems to be degraded since this engines original design."---from a technical bulletin I found.

So, I need to worry about quench?

Nevermind. I was temporarily confused. I'm fine now, really.
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Since he is boring your motor over and your replacing two pistons you have a couple options to avoid paying for a balance job OR read what I posted below:

I wasn't clear in my post. He's reboring all the cylinders.:)


When a piston is in the bore it could be 20 thousandths "in the hole" it could be "zero decked" or it could be 50 thousandths in the hole.

Huh? You're sounding like Charlie Brown's teacher to me: "whamp, whah, whah, whamp whamp whah." What do you mean, bro?
 

brdmh44

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I'm sorry after rambling I didn't make a clear point.

I thought you were only replacing 2 pistons instead of all 4 in a matched set.

My whole point is if the pistons sat at different heights in the bore at top dead center you could have potential problems

example -

2 pistons are 20 thousandths "in the hole" at top dead center compared to zero deck would mean you could have a few CC difference in combustion volume changing alot of variables.

Essentially stating you would have two different compression ratio's

My bad hopefully thats understandable
 

Don S

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I love reading posts from the new guys. :rolleyes:

You are rebuilding a 470, download the OEM service manual from the Adults Only sticky at the top of this forum, then follow it and all the specs. Your engine will last a long, long time.
You are not building an engine for NASCAR.
 

Bifflefan

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

rebuilt long block: $1800.

I can't spend that kind of money right now. He quoted individual operations like boring ($60), turning the crankshaft ($90). I can handle those numbers. I've got more time than money these days.

Will he bore the cylinder based on the diameter of the individual piston? Ditto for the bearings? Will there be any finessing required after he bores the cylinders and turns the crank? Is this what is called "fitting"?


I appreciate your advice.

Well that price is not bad, As for the bore to fit... I highly doubt it. if he does for that price i have a few motors for him to work on then. Im sure its just a standard boring and honeing of the block and hot tank it. I would think for that price he would assemble it tho.
 

jtybt

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

You're boring and replacing with all new pistons. BRD may have been talking about the differences in total piston rise compared to the 2 that weren't bad.

Reducing compression by thicker head gaskets is just plain wrong. A tight quench can improve fuel burn by causing the fuel/air mixture to be forced into the combustion chamber. It happens no matter what the compression ratio is.

A marine engine IS a high performance engine and should be built like one.
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I love reading posts from the new guys. :rolleyes:

You are rebuilding a 470, download the OEM service manual from the Adults Only sticky at the top of this forum, then follow it and all the specs. Your engine will last a long, long time.
You are not building an engine for NASCAR.

That reminds me, I've been looking at the "H' series racing bearings from Clevite for racing applications. I guess I can just get the regular ole bearings?;)

Glad to hear something encouraging from the old salts for a change.
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Well that price is not bad, As for the bore to fit... I highly doubt it. if he does for that price i have a few motors for him to work on then. Im sure its just a standard boring and honeing of the block and hot tank it. I would think for that price he would assemble it tho.

He said he'd fit each individual piston to each cylinder; he won't bore until I get him the pistons. I'll ask again to clarify.

Assembly would be another $350.
 

dr_bowtie

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

checking piston installed height is something you should do on every engine...before and after decking the block (if you plan to deck it or not...)

checking the installed height in all holes insures the squareness of the block...

if you use OEM pistons it should be well within factory spec usually being .020 down in the hole at TDC....this gives you room for straightening the block later if it needs decked should there be a warpage problem...

I never 0 deck a block...if I am after a tight quench I order pistons to fit the deck...I will not deck a block especially in one where detonation is hereditary on it's own....

securing a tighter quench area means you can run the same compression on lesser fuel...doesnt mean you'll make any more power...like I said I dont worry about quench personally until I get over 11.5:1 and most of the time is isnt worth bothering with 10.5:1 or less...

factory head gaskets are a simple steel shim and the replacements are alot thicker on the total compressed thickness and to achieve desired quench (.010 or less) the piston is usually out of the hole at TDC half the distance of the compressed thickness of the head gasket...

this doesnt leave you much room for error...in a motor such as yours I would not waste my time looking for it...

as for you losing from 8.8 to 8.2 just on the gasket alone I supose it is possible but I really question that amount of loss...

even if the current pistons are dished then go with a flat top piston and deburr and fluff the tops... this will wart off detonation more than the quench you would worry about...

marine cams normally have a wider LSA and thats about it...thats why car engines work in boats but car engines wont work in cars...the wider LSA (lobe separation angle) builds more cylinder pressure which produces way more cylinder heat.....

for a stock rebuild you can mostly disregard most all post and stick with the manuals specs and tolerances...as long as you use all OEM parts...especially pistons...

Although a kit with hyper pistons is a good idea but make sure to cut the rings for each cylinder...
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Although a kit with hyper pistons is a good idea but make sure to cut the rings for each cylinder...

Meaning filing the gap in the rings to allow for heat expansion?

It's the slang that is lost on me.
 

gettin'even

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I love reading posts from the new guys. :rolleyes:

You are rebuilding a 470, download the OEM service manual from the Adults Only sticky at the top of this forum, then follow it and all the specs. Your engine will last a long, long time.
You are not building an engine for NASCAR.


I agree. Attention to detail, and a good machine shop will go along ways toward a successful rebuild. I am familiar with hi-perf. engine builds for drag racing (cars)..A 470 is pretty easy/straight forward IMO.
 

dr_bowtie

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

that would be correct...

for those pistons I cut the top ring at .022
and the 2nd ring at .018

but you might ask the machine shop that does your work what they think...

I have run up to .030 on the top and up to .022 on the 2nd on some that ran hard at 6000rpm....

either that or get Total Seal rings for Hyper pistons...
 

natemoore

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I agree. Attention to detail, and a good machine shop will go along ways toward a successful rebuild. I am familiar with hi-perf. engine builds for drag racing (cars)..A 470 is pretty easy/straight forward IMO.

I was getting the impression it was nuclear chaos-theory trans-light speed rocket science.:D
 

gettin'even

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Messages
93
Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

checking piston installed height is something you should do on every engine...before and after decking the block (if you plan to deck it or not...)

checking the installed height in all holes insures the squareness of the block...

if you use OEM pistons it should be well within factory spec usually being .020 down in the hole at TDC....this gives you room for straightening the block later if it needs decked should there be a warpage problem...

I never 0 deck a block...if I am after a tight quench I order pistons to fit the deck...I will not deck a block especially in one where detonation is hereditary on it's own....

securing a tighter quench area means you can run the same compression on lesser fuel...doesnt mean you'll make any more power...like I said I dont worry about quench personally until I get over 11.5:1 and most of the time is isnt worth bothering with 10.5:1 or less...

factory head gaskets are a simple steel shim and the replacements are alot thicker on the total compressed thickness and to achieve desired quench (.010 or less) the piston is usually out of the hole at TDC half the distance of the compressed thickness of the head gasket...

this doesnt leave you much room for error...in a motor such as yours I would not waste my time looking for it...

as for you losing from 8.8 to 8.2 just on the gasket alone I supose it is possible but I really question that amount of loss...

even if the current pistons are dished then go with a flat top piston and deburr and fluff the tops... this will wart off detonation more than the quench you would worry about...

marine cams normally have a wider LSA and thats about it...thats why car engines work in boats but car engines wont work in cars...the wider LSA (lobe separation angle) builds more cylinder pressure which produces way more cylinder heat.....

for a stock rebuild you can mostly disregard most all post and stick with the manuals specs and tolerances...as long as you use all OEM parts...especially pistons...

Although a kit with hyper pistons is a good idea but make sure to cut the rings for each cylinder...



A stock 470 rebuild vs. a performance build = ALOT of differences. You can "get away with " much more when rebuilding an engine to stock/near stock parameters.
 

jtybt

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Absolutely build to mfg specs. That means GM specs...which is the same as merc.

As I remember, optimum quench is .037". the distance between the top of the piston to head including the compressed thickness of the head gasket.

Mfg use shim head gaskets with a nominal thickness of .017". That and the piston to deck clearance of .020" gives the mfg the .037" quench...though I'm not sure why with the full dish auto pistons.
 

brdmh44

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

I understand it's a stock rebuild but its better to be safe than sorry

Everything I brought to attention is from my own hands on experience and customer expectations

this thread is just going to turn into personal opinion

if you like the guy/shop talk with him and let him does his thing so you can get back on the water and enjoy your thing :)
 

gettin'even

Petty Officer 3rd Class
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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Maybe we could lobby to get the 470 protected under federal "hate speech" laws.:p


My wife has been reading your posts/replies, and has been laughing her arse off! Guess misery DOES love company!!!!!!!LOL!

I figured out what we're gonna do ...........instead of rebuilding an NLA engine, we're gonna get 5 more trolling motors, and connect all 6 to the swim deck. Might need a barge to haul all the batteries though..

Still sorting the details.............
 

Don S

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Re: Visiting the machine shop tomorrow

Absolutely build to mfg specs. That means GM specs...which is the same as merc.

As I remember, optimum quench is .037". the distance between the top of the piston to head including the compressed thickness of the head gasket.

Mfg use shim head gaskets with a nominal thickness of .017". That and the piston to deck clearance of .020" gives the mfg the .037" quench...though I'm not sure why with the full dish auto pistons.



This is EXACTLY what I was talking about reading the new guys posts.

The 470 has absoluteley nothing to do with GM specs.
It's NOT a GM engine, it's a Mercruiser Aluminum block with an Open Deck design, using a Ford 460 head and valve train.
 
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