Re: Volvo Cobra SX Outdrive Alignment
Hi SWTobias, it really wasn't too bad in all honesty. I bought the tool on ebay just because it was only $35 and I had read a lot of other people had. My tool is actually an OMC part number which isn't even made anymore. The volvo/merc one fits perfect though. My only fear going into it was that I would need to replace the u-joints and gimbal bearing. Even that probably wouldn't have been so bad, but I'd have to rent the pullers/tools to do them. I was scared I may have had the wrong alignment tool, but it sounds as though most are a pretty standard size. Having never done it before, I got nervous when the alignment tool didn't go in. The engine mounts were really tough to loosen, but once I did, the adjustment was pretty easy, it just takes a bit of time to get straight, as you're constantly jumping inside the boat and then to the back to check alignment. I basically followed my manual to the letter. I used a heavy duty ladder I have to hoist the drive with. It's pretty heavy (~80 lbs), but if you have another set of hands with you when you pull it off to help support the driveshaft, it makes it alot easier. I had my wife support the driveshaft, then just lifted it off and hung it from the ladder out of the way. The kit I bought had the two sets of bellows, water hose seal, driveshaft seals, and a gimbal bearing. I didn't replace the gimbal bearing as the one in there seems to move very well and I keep greased pretty good. There also wasn't any water, so I didn't think it was necessary. I used a Sierra kit, which I've now read quite a few people saying you should buy OEM bellows as the aftermarkets leak. I think there will be a problem with mine as the lip that goes on the gimbal side of the u-joint bellows seems to be too large, basically when you clamp it down, it pops out a little where the screw on the clamp is. I tried installing it different directions and that's the only way it would work. Makes me a little leary of the quality, but figured it should hold for this season. The exhaust bellows said "UP" on the one side, but it seemed to go on good. I went ahead and used them, but will plan on buying OEM one's and replace them at the end of this season. When I had the exhaust bellows off, I looked in there and noticed a flapper on the engine side which was blocking a lot of the exhaust outlet. It was just sitting in there and I read online that Volvo has a TSB out about removing it. I guess it fell off from the Y-pipe. I was able to use some really long needle nose pliers to support it and cut it with some metal shears to get it out of there. Basically, here's what I did:
1. removed dipstick and threaded in a 1/2-13 thread lifting eye (bought on ebay as no hardware stores around had it)
2. removed shift cover, took off the cotter pin and washer cube from the shift cable. Make mental note of where the washer cube sits on the threads of the cable.
3. loosened the screw on the starboard side of the drive that secures the shift cable in place and slid the metal retainer out of the way.
4. removed the end covers, e-clips, and washers from both hydraulic cylinders and used a rubber mallet to push out the pivot rod.
5. removed the 6 locknuts (I used a wrench, but will be purchasing a 5/8" swivel socket for the future, as my manual didn't tell me)
6. pulled the drive back and had wife support the driveshaft. set the whole drive in a sturdy (gladiator) A frame ladder I have using ratcheting straps through the lifting bolt.
7. took off the exhaust bellows which is held on by a hose clamp on the engine side, and by a snap ring on the outdrive side. Note - this snap ring was larger than the snap ring pliers I had from autozone. I luckily was able to use a larger pair of needle nose pliers to get it out, but be careful as it's hard to get a good grip on them.
8. removed the u-joint bellows. If you disconnect the water hose, it's a little easier to replace the u-joint bellows as they are in there together pretty tight, but it can be done without. Made sure everything is seated properly.
9. replaced the water hose seal that came with the kit.
10. checked the gimbal bearing by turning it with my hand (rubber gloves makes it easier to turn by hand, and less messy). I also used my alignment tool to spin the bearing while pumping in new grease (easy if someone else is squirting grease while you spin it)
11. Checked alignement with tool (in my case, it didn't enter the engine coupler) I put a thin layer of grease on the end of the tool and it just touched the splines enough for me to tell which way I needed to move the engine mounts. If spline marks are on top, the engine needs to go down, if on bottom, the engine needs to come up, which was my case.
12. I adjusted my engine mounts up by loosening the top nut on the mount bolt, and then drawing the locknut up to it. I did this about 10 times, in and out of the boat each time to check alignment. Got it to the point where the alignment tool slides in and out really easy and leaves even spline marks in the grease the whole way around the shaft.
13. Cleaned off driveshaft, removed the two seals on it and replaced with new and a coating of oil. Applied Moly grease (found at walmart) to my shaft splines.
14. Pumped new grease into my u-joints and checked to see they moved easily. Put a coat of grease around the tapered end of pinion bearing carrier. (the end where u-joints come out of)
15. Applied some blue threadlocker to 6 mounting studs (it calls for sealing compound, whatever that is)
16. Shifted the drive into gear by moving the eccentric piston arm (not the control by the steering wheel)
17. Lifted the drive back into place, holding up the driveshaft until it was inside the bearing/coupler. Had to wiggle the prop a little to get the splines to line up. Installed the 6 locknuts starting with middle two then one top, other bottom, and vice versa.
18. greased and reinstalled my pivot rod and trim/tilt cylinders the way they were before.
19. reinstalled my shift cable the way it was as well.
20. Started it up and held my breath. I got my shift cable out of adjustment, but will have to play with that some as I've always had some resistance on it.
Anyone have step by step for rebuilding a 2bbl holley carb? That's what I'm up against next I believe.
