Doug-ole-waterdog
Cadet
- Joined
- Aug 15, 2009
- Messages
- 14
Re: Volvo Penta 230B backfire through Carb
Thats the one! The only thing I see on this diagram is the idle "jet" #25 on mine is slotted and turned in all the way I took it out and cleaned it, but it appears to have no adjusment, I just turned it back in all the way. This one (25) looks like it would adjust.
The only jet I adjusted is Idle "screw" #15/39. I thought that was the idle "jet". When I took it out it was set at 5 turns out. I put it back to 5 then turned out to 9 &1/2 like suggested previously in this thread. I have not adjusted any other jets or screws.
I set the linkage on the pump back the way it was when I took it off. Of course if it was wrong then it is still wrong.
I will run WOT on the lake next ime out. Yes the diaphram is easy enough to change, but I like you tried to buy just the pump diaphram and can't find just it.
Timing is 6* BTDC Dwell is 691.8, new plugs gapped to 35, new points and condensor, new dist cap. Coil replaced last year, new fuel pump, lines all cleaned out, syphin valve cleaned, vent line to tank clean and clear, carb bowl cleaned, acellerator diaphram removed and cleaned, drain plug with little ball in the end cleaned and free, screen removed and cleaned, float cleaned and floats well, seat valve cleaned and works freely, all ports cleaned out while apart and all slot screws cleaned. I removed and cleaned all nozzels.
I will look for a pump diaphram, but this one does squirt gas with each pump. I have removed the spark arrestor and watched it squirt. Good flow, but not like a arisol can strength, but steady squirt. That is my question, I don't know how strong it needs to be? I was afraid to do it on the lake under a load in case of a backfire and start a fire, but if I did I could tell if the stream was weak or gone when the engine stalls before the down draft picks up.
Thats the one! The only thing I see on this diagram is the idle "jet" #25 on mine is slotted and turned in all the way I took it out and cleaned it, but it appears to have no adjusment, I just turned it back in all the way. This one (25) looks like it would adjust.
The only jet I adjusted is Idle "screw" #15/39. I thought that was the idle "jet". When I took it out it was set at 5 turns out. I put it back to 5 then turned out to 9 &1/2 like suggested previously in this thread. I have not adjusted any other jets or screws.
I set the linkage on the pump back the way it was when I took it off. Of course if it was wrong then it is still wrong.
I will run WOT on the lake next ime out. Yes the diaphram is easy enough to change, but I like you tried to buy just the pump diaphram and can't find just it.
Timing is 6* BTDC Dwell is 691.8, new plugs gapped to 35, new points and condensor, new dist cap. Coil replaced last year, new fuel pump, lines all cleaned out, syphin valve cleaned, vent line to tank clean and clear, carb bowl cleaned, acellerator diaphram removed and cleaned, drain plug with little ball in the end cleaned and free, screen removed and cleaned, float cleaned and floats well, seat valve cleaned and works freely, all ports cleaned out while apart and all slot screws cleaned. I removed and cleaned all nozzels.
I will look for a pump diaphram, but this one does squirt gas with each pump. I have removed the spark arrestor and watched it squirt. Good flow, but not like a arisol can strength, but steady squirt. That is my question, I don't know how strong it needs to be? I was afraid to do it on the lake under a load in case of a backfire and start a fire, but if I did I could tell if the stream was weak or gone when the engine stalls before the down draft picks up.