MCNPathfinder
Petty Officer 2nd Class
- Joined
- Jul 24, 2010
- Messages
- 122
I know this topic is discussed at length, but I'm wondering if maybe I could just run something by the collective here. My boat is a JC Tritoon with the VP 5.7. Had it winterized professionally last year. They change the fuel filter as part of that service. Boat ran flawlessly its last time out for the season.
This year, first time on the water, it was running REALLY rough. Seemed to be backfiring or running lean I think. The fuel pump started whining really loudly. When the engine would stumble and almost die, the fuel pump whining would increase in pitch, and then the engine RPMs would follow and rise.
HOWEVER, sometimes it would run just fine and we could go WOT. Of course, I can't get it to act up on muffs at home. I followed a lot of what ESGWheel talked about in forum posts. I purchased a new fuel regulator. There was definitely debris in the old (assuming paint from the fuel pumps). I cleaned it out with carb cleaner and popped it back in, and the boat runs fine on muffs. I checked fuel pressure at the top of the engine near the FPR and it was at 50 consistently. I tried to check pressure at the fuel pump, but I couldn't get the gauge I rented to work there for some reason.
All that to say. I bought a new fuel pressure regulator as well as a cheap fuel pump set on Amazon. I'm hoping to send in my old fuel pump to get refurbished. I know there's a service bulletin to remove the filter on the FPR and replace with a clip, but I kind of like the idea of having some filtration there. I'm hesitant to put any new parts on the engine just yet because I'm not sure how much more paint chips are going to be stuck in the system.
My thought is that I just lake test it with things as they are. I bring carb cleaner with me and pull the FPR and clean it if it starts acting up. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll swap the fuel pump and put in the new FPR.
Does my logic make sense here? Also, roughly how long does it take to swap the fuel pumps out on these things? Trying to gauge if that's an at home thing or if I could save some time and do it on the lake. Ha!
This year, first time on the water, it was running REALLY rough. Seemed to be backfiring or running lean I think. The fuel pump started whining really loudly. When the engine would stumble and almost die, the fuel pump whining would increase in pitch, and then the engine RPMs would follow and rise.
HOWEVER, sometimes it would run just fine and we could go WOT. Of course, I can't get it to act up on muffs at home. I followed a lot of what ESGWheel talked about in forum posts. I purchased a new fuel regulator. There was definitely debris in the old (assuming paint from the fuel pumps). I cleaned it out with carb cleaner and popped it back in, and the boat runs fine on muffs. I checked fuel pressure at the top of the engine near the FPR and it was at 50 consistently. I tried to check pressure at the fuel pump, but I couldn't get the gauge I rented to work there for some reason.
All that to say. I bought a new fuel pressure regulator as well as a cheap fuel pump set on Amazon. I'm hoping to send in my old fuel pump to get refurbished. I know there's a service bulletin to remove the filter on the FPR and replace with a clip, but I kind of like the idea of having some filtration there. I'm hesitant to put any new parts on the engine just yet because I'm not sure how much more paint chips are going to be stuck in the system.
My thought is that I just lake test it with things as they are. I bring carb cleaner with me and pull the FPR and clean it if it starts acting up. If that doesn't fix it, then I'll swap the fuel pump and put in the new FPR.
Does my logic make sense here? Also, roughly how long does it take to swap the fuel pumps out on these things? Trying to gauge if that's an at home thing or if I could save some time and do it on the lake. Ha!
