VP 8.1 Engine overheat and seize

[stldan]

I have a 2003 Volvo 8.1Gi in a Cobalt 262 and ran aground after some unexpected dredging changed our routine passage. Sucked in a large amount of sand that completely clogged the oil cooler. Engine subsequently seized after filling the cylinders with water. I pulled the engine and found water in the oil also as well as the water in the cylinders. Risers and manifolds are less than a year old and look good and shouldn't be to blame for the water ingestion. Heads and head gasket look ok. Insurance company has not made a determination on coverage because they "can't find a reason for the seizure that would coincide with running aground" "No melted wires or melted exhaust boots" tell them that it didn't get hot enough for the engine to seize. Impeller looks ok but only had 5 hours since replacement. Engine had about 300 hours. Also, no apparent steam cleaning of the exhaust which is common for these types of overheats. When I looked at the gauges the temperature gauge was buried at 250 and was the reason for me to shut down the engine. I don't see any bent rods and can't explain why it is seized. Has anyone seen this before and can offer any opinions or advise?

 

[Lou C]

Ask the ins clowns how water flowed thru that oil cooler. It may have seized due to scored cyls. Since you have the heads off take pix of the cyl walls.
I had a similar problem once (cooling hose popped off) and the engine overheated and seemed seized but once it cooled it cranked over normally and ran fine for 2 more seasons before blowing the HGs and putting water in the oil and cyls. I was able to save it with a top end overhaul, new heads etc. Still running same short block.

 

[stldan]

That's exactly my point, how in the hell would water have gotten in. He says that since the impeller wasn't destroyed and nothing melted that the engine should not have gotten hot enough to seize. I have it torn down to the long block and it still won't turn over.

 

[Lou C]

Another option is to get a mechanic to look at it see if they will offer an opinion on the failure. If they don’t send an adjuster to look at it I would not accept their decision

 

[stldan]

I have considered taking it to an engine shop but the adjuster has told me to not alter anything. They haven't made a decision yet but he keeps telling me that he is trying to find me coverage for this incident. Meanwhile I am missing most of my boating season. They are just completely stumped and I am trying to find them an answer since they clearly can't. I just don't understand where the confusion is; it ran aground and promptly overheated while trying to get the craft off of the sandbar. The oiler cooler should tell them everything they need to know... at least in my mind it should.

 

[stldan]

I have considered taking it to an engine shop but the adjuster has told me to not alter anything. They haven't made a decision yet but he keeps telling me that he is trying to find me coverage for this incident. Meanwhile I am missing most of my boating season. They are just completely stumped and I am trying to find them an answer since they clearly can't. I just don't understand where the confusion is; it ran aground and promptly overheated while trying to get the craft off of the sandbar. The oiler cooler should tell them everything they need to know... at least in my mind it should.

Don't mind the marks on the second cylinder, that was from trying to get it to move after knowing I'd be ordering a new long block.

 

[Lou C]

I see what looks like scoring on the last cyl, all the way to the right. If you clean the cyls get the surface rust off it may be easier to see.
I don't see how they could be stumped. Here's why:
when my engine overheated, the temp was off the chart (240*) but from the outside, the rubber exhaust hoses looked fine, no paint burnt off the exhaust, or the exhaust pipe adapters between the Y pipe and elbows. Nothing in close proximity burnt up (except the exhaust flapper that were vaporized). When it overheated and died (I was trying to beach the boat due to the bilge filling with salt water, cooling hose popped off the P/S cooler) I waited for a tow, pulled out my IR temp gun for some laughs on a bad day. Once it died I knew what the cause was, engine stopped impeller stopped filling bilge with water. I could not get anywhere near the engine it was as hot as a barbeque. The exhaust manifolds measured at 375*F. And did not crack. At the end of it all the HGs blew 2 seasons later and I would up installing new (reman) heads because the overheat cracked the center exhaust valve seats on the V6 heads. Four years later still running well on the original short block.
So my point is you don't always see external signs like they are looking for. When I started it up the next day I was amazed. Like nothing happened. Changed all the burnt up stuff in the exhaust and the water grommets in the outdrive which will also get damaged.

 

[Nashville]

Don't mind the marks on the second cylinder, that was from trying to get it to move after knowing I'd be ordering a new long block.

What do the journals and mains look like? Hot oil is too thin. Thin oil leads to a seized motor. The oil cooler picture says a lot. The walls, journals and mains will also. Question to answer is overheat and seize, then water; or overheat, water and lockup. Rods straight? No thrown rods says a lot. What was elapsed time from grounding to kaput? While exact 8.1 or serial number weren’t posted, please consider this motor has a MEFI ECM. She should have triggered low OP, high ECT and depending on which 8.1, exhaust temperature and knock sensors (which exact 8.1 will tell us the exact sensor package). This information still resides in the ECM and is possibly the data needed to support/refute the hypothesis.

 

[Scott Danforth]

when you ran aground, you plugged the oil cooler which is before the raw water pump. so you starved your motor of cooling water

then in turn, you overheated the motor by running. pistons got really hot and expanded, seizing the motor

your motor was much hotter than 250

I bet the over-temp alarm was just a beeping away.

motor will need to be magnafluxed, bored and honed for larger pistons

 

[stldan]

when you ran aground, you plugged the oil cooler which is before the raw water pump. so you starved your motor of cooling water

then in turn, you overheated the motor by running. pistons got really hot and expanded, seizing the motor

your motor was much hotter than 250

I bet the over-temp alarm was just a beeping away.

motor will need to be magnafluxed, bored and honed for larger pistons

Unfortunately the alarm is missing, not sure why but it’s on my list to replace if I can figure out the wiring.
I took the flywheel off and put a 4 foot bar on the crank and was able to get it to turn over but with a lot of resistance.
I’m just not sure what to show the insurance company, it seems pretty straight forward to me.
The new longblock has shipped on my dime and I would like to get reimbursed from the insurance that should cover accidents like this.