Waketower Install Question

a-jive

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
9
Hey everyone. This is my first time posting, but I've been using the forum for a while to answer some of my basic questions. I'm finally to a project that will probably need some specific guidance, so I figured I'd come out of the shadows.:redface:

I have a 2007 Glastron 185GT. It's the first boat I've ever owned directly, but have been on the water most of my life between family with boats.

So I'm in the market for a waketower. My local shop didn't instill a whole lot of confidence in me when I asked about having them install one for me (first words out of his mouth was that he couldn't guarantee that the gel coat wouldn't crack), so I'm thinking about doing it myself to make sure it gets done right. I'm sure I'll have a few questions to make sure I have it all figured out, but I need to start with a couple basic ones to start with that I couldn't find by searching the forum.

The best youtube video I've seen on the topic is from Samson Sports (hopefully I can muster up the cash to get one of their bad***** towers). Lucky for me, they are working on a GT 210, so it's a very familiar boat. My issue/ question is accessing the inside of the hull. In the pic below, you can see he is reaching through a big hole... that hole isn't stock.

I assume it was drilled for the insallation. If that is the case, 1) is that really ok to do? And 2) would it need to be repaired afterwards? The seat back would cover it, but wouldn't that weaken the structure?:confused:


waketower.jpg



Your insight is greatly appreciated!
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
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18,137
Re: Waketower Install Question

I would look extensively for ways to access the areas you need without cutting holes and such. But if you must, the hole that is cut in the seat back (in the video) is fine, it will not be detrimental to the structural integrity. I would refrain from drilling near corners and the borders of flat areas, keep holes in the middle of panel areas., generally speaking.

To repair the hole, I would just replace the hole with one of those round access plates that you can buy at marine stores (so you want to make any hole the size of available access plates).

In order to avoid stress cracks you need good sized backing plates. I would use 'Starboard' mounted with epoxy. Others may have their favorites. Through-bolts . . . no screws. Bevel the holes on the gelcoat side of the hull and use a bit of epoxy on the freshly exposed fiberglass. Silicone on the exterior mounting surface that meets the hull so no water and crap can get behind the mounting bases.

That's all i got, I'm sure others will have ideas and approaches as well. Good luck with it . . post pics.
 

a-jive

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
9
Re: Waketower Install Question

Thanks tp. The deck plate idea is genius... I knew there had to be a simple solution, I just couldn't come up with it. The backing plate issue is why I'm concerned with my local shop... I assume they would use the little 2" diameter plate that comes with the roswell towers (that's the OEM mfg for Glastron) and nothing else.


That leaves me with just one more item that has me stumped... upholstery removal.

The back rests in the bow are pictured below, along with a shot of the backside cavity:

IMAG0088.jpg


IMAG0091.jpg


How would I go about removing those panels? On the port side I can access the nuts on the backside of the upholstery panel via a cutout for the stereo deck, but on the starboard side there is no access to the backside at all. That's not another giant hole on my boat, is it?

I've inspected the upholstery and I have access to the staples on the bottom, but not really anywhere else. I'm not sure about removing the upholstery anyway, because I know it would never look good again if I had to re-upholster the panel!
 

tpenfield

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Jul 18, 2011
Messages
18,137
Re: Waketower Install Question

There is usually a trick or two that the boat manufacturers use to hide fasteners . . . things like slotted holes and then one or two hidden fasteners. you should not have to remove any staples, and you probably don't want to do that anyway.

So, keep looking . . .
 

a-jive

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
9
Re: Waketower Install Question

And thanks again. I got a better look and the bolts have the plastic sleeve so they just pop out. I thought that may be the case, but one of the other panels on the boat I can reach and there is a nut on the back.

Looks like I'm ready to go... except for that whole deciding on a tower and forking out the cash! :facepalm:
 

ThreeMileBayWaker

Petty Officer 1st Class
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Dec 17, 2009
Messages
342
Re: Waketower Install Question

I have a 2010 gt 205. The bow panels as you found are just push pin automotive body fasters. Just carefully pry the back rests out. As for the access hole, there isn't one. You need a 5" hole saw and drill in reverse. Don't go smaller than a 5", you'll end up having your entire arm through the hole. Also...be sure to reinforce your backing plate. My tower was factory installed and I fought with them to repair my gel coat which spider cracked. Upon removing the tower for warranty work, the nuts were loose and the backing plates were tiny. When I get it out of storage and reinstall my tower I will be adding a lot of reinforcement.
 

CC245

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Jun 8, 2010
Messages
194
Re: Waketower Install Question

Many boats use that area as a storage compartment. After the tower install, if the space looks usable enlarge the opening and then hinge the back rest.
 

a-jive

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Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
9
Re: Waketower Install Question

Thanks everyone for the input! I ended up losing composure last night and biting on the h20watersports deal for the Arial Airborne + 2 racks for $999. The deal was just too good. The reviews on this site seem to say it's a good deal for the money.

Also...be sure to reinforce your backing plate. My tower was factory installed and I fought with them to repair my gel coat which spider cracked. Upon removing the tower for warranty work, the nuts were loose and the backing plates were tiny. When I get it out of storage and reinstall my tower I will be adding a lot of reinforcement.

That pretty much confirms my concerns about my local dealer/ shop. They are great with mechanical work, but like I said before, when I brought up having them install the OEM tower for me, literally the first thing he said was that it may crack the gel. I appreciate the risk, but I think with maximizing your backing you can really limit it. I know it's very thin up around the gunwales... I'm thinking I may ply 2 1/4" sheets of starboard so I get maximum flex and contact out of the first board and then end up with >3/4" backing behind the feet of the tower (and of course, as big as I can squeeze through that 5" hole).

Many boats use that area as a storage compartment. After the tower install, if the space looks usable enlarge the opening and then hinge the back rest.

That's a really good idea. I'm not sure if it will work in my case (I expect it to be hollow all the way to the bottom), but I could possibly get the deck plates with an integral nylon bag. It would be a perfect place for a small tool kit or something.
 

ThreeMileBayWaker

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Dec 17, 2009
Messages
342
Re: Waketower Install Question

Yea no room behind the hole for storage. Passenger side has the rear of the stereo right behind the hole, the driver side is empty but not really large enough to put anything in there.

Between the backing plate And boat itself, be sure to use a marine fiberglass epoxy just like the Samson video shows. It will fill any voids and make a good solid backing once cured. The only issues you might have is with the front feet. The way my upper shell was molded, the mounting foot lyes very close to a rib I guess you'd call it and creates an angles mounting point. My boats in storage or I'd try and get you some pics.
 

a-jive

Cadet
Joined
Mar 16, 2012
Messages
9
Re: Waketower Install Question

The only issues you might have is with the front feet. The way my upper shell was molded, the mounting foot lyes very close to a rib I guess you'd call it and creates an angles mounting point.


Yeah, I'm a little concerned with the contours. I'll probably look around for a metal shop that can cup the foot so it fits tight. I got a good deal on the tower, I can probably drop another $50 on getting it right. Hopefully it'll all line up in the flats though.

I have a few weeks before I do any install work, so if you get it out of storage, any pics are appreciated!
 
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