Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

[HSXV6307]

First, I am new to boats/outboard motor, my fist one. I was given (read free) a Hydra Shock kevlar49 don't know the year, actually cannot find anything on it, but guessing by the motor a 1977 Mercury 1150 SN4698757 I am assuming is 1977 or newer. Boat surgery on a later date after the motor is back running, stay tune to the boat repair section because I will need help.

The last time the motor tasted water was in 1997. It has been sitting with a 3/4 tank full (now empty) and fuel in the carburetors. I ordered the carburetor rebuild kit for all three and the fuel pump kit. It also needs new wires, they crumbled when I moved them. Reading through the forum I have learned that I need to check the compression, change the water impeller and check the lower unit for water. Oh, it also needs a stator, wires are corroded, have not remove the stator yet. I guess I need to do this before I turn the motor. I have the service manual but I am trying to determine the best sequence of event. I don?t want to do something that can damage something else. This is what I have in mind.

1- Rebuild carburetors
2- Rebuild the fuel pump
3- Rewired the motor
4- Check lower unit for water, change oil if no water. If there is water then what?
5- Remove lower unit, check and change impeller
6- Check compression (last since motor has to be warm but hate to do everything else to find out there is something wrong)

Therefore, should I remove/rebuild the carburetors first then check the compression before the impeller? Should I rewire the motor (by the way the boat needs new wires) then carburetor/fuel pump then lower unit, then compression. What would the experts do first if someone brings a motor in this condition?

Thanks, Juan

 

[carholme]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Juan;

You are correct as the s/n comes up as:

115 1150 6-cyl 4567952 4855152 1977 USA

From here;

http://www.marinshopen.se/Motorer/O...cury2taktR66cyl80150hp/tabid/489/Default.aspx

Parts listing:

http://www.crowleymarine.com/mercury-outboard/463.cfm

If it was my engine, the first thing I would do before spending any money is a compression check as this will determine if you have to get deeper into the block.

Good luck with it!

Gerry

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

One more thing, the service manual mention special tool to remove the flywheel. How do I remove it without special tool? Need to remove stator.

Juan

 

[carholme]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Juan;

A lot of people use one like Item # 37824, second row from the top in this link:

http://www.harborfreight.com/automotive-motorcycle/pullers.html

This is the kind I use:

http://www.mbsmfg.com/flpu91.html

Gerry

 

[Gomer50]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Very important!! Check your Compression first to make sure it's gonna be worth your time...
1. You can remove the flywheel without a flywheel puller however you must first loosen the 8 bolts on top of the flywheel rotate your flywheel so your TDC marking on the flywheel are pointing at your timing pointer on your motor.Remove the bolts,pull the outer flywheel off and you have access to the stator.DO NOT rotate the motor until you have put the flywheel back on the way it came off or your timing will be off if you would need to adjust it later with a timing light etc.
2. Rebuild carbs and fuel pump.
3. If you have the $$ buy yourself an internal wiring harness,saves time and headaches.
4. Rebuild waterpump,check oil,, Ahh hell change it too.
This should get you very close to some fun in the sun

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Thank you guys for your answers. A compression test will be first. I was not sure if it was okay to turn the motor before I clean the carburetors. I will look into the harness I think is about $300+ for both sides.

Hopefully the attachment worked. Is a picture of the flywheel marking which are not that good.

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I did the compression test and all cylinders are at the same reading (Harbor Freight) around 75-78 psi. I did not measured #6 because I have to figure out how to remove the bottom portion of the housing. I guess I am good to proceed.

Juan

 

[Chris1956]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

As long as the compression readings are close, you are good to go. I suspect your gauge is inaccurate, as those numbers are way too low. The #6 cylinder is probably fine, as it is not the first to usually fail. Ususally #3 cylinder fails first, and your test reports it is good.
A service manual will help you link and synch that motor. Max timing is 21*BTDC. Idle pickup timing is 4-6* BTDC.

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Update, I have the carburetor rebuild kit, fuel pump kit, service manual and a new shed 24x26x10. Now I am working on building a motor stand using plans from this site and a hoist to remove the motor from the boat.

 

[smokeonthewater]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I would revisit the compression test.... if you did it right and if those numbers are right she wouldn't even run..... Next, look at the "free boat" thread in my signature... I have the same motor..... Are you doing this to get on the water for cheap? if so, you can buy a newer good running engine for what you'll spend on the wiring harness and stator... If you end up needing a switch box or distributor pickup (NLA) it gets worse.... If your primary motivation is to have a cool old merc inline then soldier on and watch craigs list CLOSELY!.... a parts motor is your best friend. Also in my thread look at my stator... The wires were in BAD shape but I managed to patch it up.... should last a few years.

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Now that I have the motor off the boat and on its stand, I removed the carburetors. One thing I noticed is that all three are missing a screw on the top. I this something that come with the rebuilt kit? see pictures

 

[orbanp]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I would add to the list the replacement of the fuel lines. They are probably old, and also were not meant for using gasoline with ethanol. I would just get generic low pressure fuel line of the proper diameter by the foot from an automotive parts store.
I would also check the operation of the thermostat, if the engine has one.
I would not worry about the seemingly low compression, it will probably come up once the engine starts running.

Good luck, Peter

 

[turtles11756]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

take your time and learn. the wiring harness is about $150.00 . the stator must be placed on exactly the way it comes off . the flywheel is just a plate be careful .merc makes a flex plate fywheel tool .the compression is checked with a gauge that has a flexible hose to get at the bottom cylinder. maxrules.com for tools .try a different gauge it should be closer to 125lbs. psi. .you need a mercury service manual in order to start fooling with it !

 

[gwukena]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Now that I have the motor off the boat and on its stand, I removed the carburetors. One thing I noticed is that all three are missing a screw on the top. I this something that come with the rebuilt kit? see pictures

View attachment 140162View attachment 140163

Doesn't come in the rebuild kit, you'll probably find the hoses from float bowl to carb body are plugged with something like a bb as well. That is the economizer circuit and most guys disabled them to prevent leaning out too much in mid range.

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Thanks for your help,

gwukena,

what you are saying is that if I plug the economizer hoses (need new also) I do not need the screw, correct? Is that just a screw or something special?

Turtle11756,
I got the wire harness and stator. I did not know that the stator has to be placed the same way the old one came off, good to know. The fuel pump is rebuilt but in the process I noticed cracks in the plastic cover where the filter is, need a new cover. I also have the mercury service manual. About the compression all cylinders are around 80. I know they are low but i am ignoring this for now since all are the same. It is hard for me to believe that all cylinders failed the same way.

All fuel lines need to be replaced and if I can use automotive lines that will be good, cheaper.

 

[merc850]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

That missing screw in the carbs is an air jet to meter the air for fuel consumption reduction at mid-throttle, looks like you'll have to make sure the hoses are plugged or get some jets. As for the fuel lines I've heard that marine grade is safer - from a fire and toughness standpoint.

 

[HSXV6307]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Is #11 the right part for the missing screw? If I plug the hose do I still need this?

 

[gwukena]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

That is the correct part for the vent jet to replace your missing "screw". Theoretically you don't need it if the hose is plugged, however that is also a passage direct to the float bowl, the reduced size of the installed jets would prevent larger pieces of trash from getting into the bowl. Personally, for the price i would install the jets.

 

[merc850]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

There are filter screens in the carb at the end of the fuel elbow, I removed mine and threw them away 'cause there are enough filters in the fuel system and I'm careful about my fuel cleanliness.

 

[gwukena]

Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

There are filter screens in the carb at the end of the fuel elbow, I removed mine and threw them away 'cause there are enough filters in the fuel system and I'm careful about my fuel cleanliness.

Merc850, The dirt doesn't come from the fuel supply, it can get in from the vent jet opening to the bowl. Pull your bowl cover, and you will see the passage that is connected to the passage to the vent jet.