Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I have not seen any screen in the Parts Microfiche breakdown but I know that the missing vent jet is open to the bowl because that is one of the fist thing I check by inserting a wire. That is when I realized I needed what ever is missing.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Well, now I did it. I removed the carbs with no problem, the problem started when I let go of the bottom one thinking that it was attached to the middle one and dropped it. The plastic link between carbs broke and is obsoleted. Does any one here has one laying around? On the bright side the carb is now clean.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Finished cleaning the carbs, now I have some questions. Attached are two pictures one is for the economizer fuel lines #0184. These lines had a piece of rod in them but the rod were not big enough to seal the lines. What is the purpose of the rods? Is it to regulate the fuel flow? The second picture #0186 shows a wire harness (I think there are two wires in it) going into the tilt/trim system. I thought the tilt/trim was hydraulic. I have no clue where these wires go. I don't see it going inside the motor area. Any idea?.

Juan100_0184.jpg100_0186.jpg
 

Chris1956

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

The rods were meant the seal the backdrag hoses. Since the backdrag jets from the bowl covers have been removed (April 9th picture), the backdrag system will not function, so the rods not sealing is not an issue. I would cap the venturi nipples and be done with it.

The electrical part of the PTT system was for the Trim Limit switch. Most of them break, and we bypass them. After you get the trim pump and 4 hydraulic lines hooked up, I can tell you how to bypass it is necessary.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I replaced the stator, all electrical wires in the motor, fuel lines, vacuum lines, all lines, and I finished putting the motor back together after cleaning the carbs and rebuilding the fuel pump. I sealed the hoses for the backdrag but I need to find the right size screw to plug the jet hole. These holes goes straight to the bowl.

I think my next thing before I start the motor will be to check the lower unit. After 5 years sitting I think i need to drain it, put new oil, and rebuild the water pump. Hopefully that is all it needs. I don't want to damage it by starting the motor without checking it. Is this special oil only found in marine places? The control unit still attached to the boat, so I need to figure out how to start/stop the motor. I guess I just remove it so I can start the motor, it has to come out anyways t replace some wires and for boat repairs. Also, I need a key or new switch if I cannot find a key.

As far as the PTT I need to remove the hydraulic pump to check it, again has to come out anyways. The trim limit switch will stop the pump once the motor reached certain level, correct? If it is bypass, how does it know when to stop? I guess I wait to figure it out once I remove the pump and connect it to test it. I will be back for your guidance on this.

I have the service manual but all this marine stuff is all new to me and the lower unit sounds challenging actually intimidating. I look at it as the transmission on a car which I have never mess with. I enjoy taking thing apart and fixing things so it will be fun.
 

Chris1956

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Use Marine Gear oil for mechanical shift Outboards, in the gearcase. Any brand is fine. Walmart and most austo parts stores will have it. It will take about a qt.

That motor has 5 visible nuts and a hidden bolt holding the motor and gearcase together. The hidden bolt is under the zinc anode, above and behind the prop. You need to use a thin wall 1/2" socket thru the hole above the anode to remoive it.

I would test the hydraulic pump while it is connected to the trim cylinders on the motor. It takes 5W-30 motor oil or ATF, whatever is already in it. The trim limit switch is unnecessary as you will usually never need to trim it that much to achieve optimum performance.
 

swamp-fox

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Change the water pump no matter how good it looks. Also make sure you buy a new Mercury water pump. I got one from iboats and it didn't look right so I got one from my mercury dealer. (sorry iboats I did order alot of other stuff from here..lol)

The same was the case with the carbarater kit. The needle that the float hits inside the bowl was a different diameter. I had to put the old one back in and it worked.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

First I would like to thank you guys for your help.

Okay, it is special oil. Time to go to Walmart to get oil. The lower unit has a shaft, does it slide right off?
I started clearing a path to remove the hydraulic pump, after 30 year the amount of wires connected, around, under, over it is amazing. I have no clue where all go but at this time it will go to the trash.

Swamp, I plan to replace all seals and after reading through the forum some suggest replacing some plates. I will look at the diagram and see what make sense to replace. I don't want to take it apart again because I did not replace a seal.

How do one remove the control box, see picture. I figured out how to remove the handle and the black cover, but that is as far as I got. There are 3 holes in the front but when I put a screwdriver could not find a screw. It was getting dark so I try tomorrow morning.


100_0103.jpg
 

swamp-fox

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

As long as you replaced the impeller you should be good.

Stick your hand behind the fiberglass, there should be 2 nuts holding it on. One in the top corner by the trailer button and one opposite on the bottom by the throttle cables. If I'm not mistaken.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

The lower end appears to be in good shape. I drained the oil and has not water or metal particles, it is nice and black :rolleyes: I guess the water pump seals are good or at least used to be good the last time it was in the water. Okay, now how do I fill this back? what is the trick, the fill hole is at the bottom, I cannot compete with gravity.

002.jpg
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

I took off the control box, thanks swamp. It does not look pretty inside. I need to replace the wiring and maybe the switches. The outer insulator of the 7 conductor wire harness peeled off like a banana all the way to the motor connector and is all cracked. The power and ground wires are no good either. The buttons in front of the box barely move. I guess I need to find me a new control box with the wires.

001.jpg005.jpg018.jpg004.jpg
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Okay, I checked the push button switches and they worked. I need a key or a new switch. I thing I am going to find a 7 conductor wire, rewire and splice it at the connector's end. I found a replacement harness for $168 at this place www.blackbearsportinggoods.com part number 474-9550, it happens to be close by. I looked in iboat and I think they wanted like $200.

Juan
 

swamp-fox

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

To fill the lower unit there should be another screw, the same size but higher. I'm not around mine to look for exact position.

You loosen that top screw to allow air to escape. Hopefully the gear oil is in a tube, that's all I've ever used. Stick it in the hole that you drained the oil from and start squeezing. When oil comes out the top screw it is full. Tighten the top screw and it should create a vacum allowing no oil to drain out and enough time to tighten the bottom screw.

I'm not sure about the oil being black though. Others will know more than me. Mine is usually grey.
However if there is no water or shavings in it then you should be good.

Good luck
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

What is the trick to remove the impeller, this thing is not moving.IMG_20120427_121913.jpg
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

Well, got it out with some persuasion :D. As some of you know I built the motor stand from prints I got here. Yesterday when I took the lower unit I tilted the motor to removed it and left the motor in that forward position. This morning I found the motor on the ground. Without the lower unit to counter balance the motor the stand tilted forward and over itself. Luckily the hook was still on and took the hit by bending and a nice dent on the cement slab. I was out there for maybe an hour after I removed the lower unit. I figured if it was going to fall it would have fallen as soon as I removed the lower unit. My son and his friend where in the workshop yesterday and I wonder if they were looking at it and all it need it to tilt it was a little help, have not talked to him yet. I need to add a set of wheels in the front of the stand so this does not happen again because I need to tilt the motor again to install the lower unit.
 

HSXV6307

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Re: Waking up 1977 mercury 1150

The motor is talking to me. Most likely need to fine tune it but it started right up. Now start a new post on boat rebuild.
 
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