Wanting to install a fuel pump in a 25hp big twin, but no bosses on the bypass cover.

todd281

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Hi, This is my first post, I recently came into a 1954 Evinrude big twin model 25916. I have read through the forum, and seen how to convert the double to a single fuel line by installing a fuel pump. My bypass covers however only have one " boss" [see the attach photo] I am wondering if I could drill that out and add a barbed nipple there,then use the freestanding type fuel pump. Or do I have to buy the other bypass cover with the boss placement for the attached fuel pump. Thanks in advance for any help.
 

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F_R

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Drill that hole through. Tap pipe threads in the hole. (1/8" NPT). Screw in 90 degree elbow hose barb nipple. Proceed with your pump installation.
 
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todd281

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wow that was quick! thanks for the advise. I will proceed with the pump project. and I am sure I will be posting again with more questions.
 

Crosbyman

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don.t forget to plug the air nipple behing the carb. tye wrap a 1.5 inch piece of hose with a fat screw in it at one end. . plug it with some silicone
 

geoffwga1

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Could he not just use that nipple to drive his pump,or is that not practical on that model,it's one I'm not familiar with.
G
 

F_R

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Could he not just use that nipple to drive his pump,or is that not practical on that model,it's one I'm not familiar with.
G

It would be possible, but that is doing it the hard way.
 

racerone

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You can not just use the nipple to drive the pump !------That is a one way air supply to the pressure tank.----Fuel pump do not work off that.-----It involves modifications to use that nipple to drive a newer pump.
 

Crosbyman

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the harder way for 5.5hp with no bypass covers ....but I did mine and it runs perfect

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=FtG4M7ye1N8


I did a QD and a FD ...with a square Mikuni and the other with a OMC pump on a plate over the pypass cover (found it to be the better way)


did my 5.5 with a round Brigss and Straton pump# 808656 ($20) single hose side connector and used the nipple
 
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todd281

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ok, thanks everyone, I removed the cover and completed this part of the project today [easy peasy] now on to all the rest, trying to find info on that engine is tough I do have some other questions but I will ask them in a new post.
 

gm280

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If your addition questions are concerning the same engine, then post them here rather then starting a new post. That way everybody can keep all your engine question in one place to give you better answers...
 

F_R

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--It involves modifications to use that nipple to drive a newer pump.

Exactly. That's why I said doing it that way is doing it the hard way. You have to tear the whole front end off the powerhead to do the modification to the air port.
 

todd281

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ok I got the fuel pump installed, and thanks to Crosbyman posting the link to "The Book" I was able to manufacture a choke rod. The next hurdle, seems to be finding a fuel filter, or perhaps cleaning it . It is a "stone/ceramic" type that is inside the sediment fuel bowl. I have soaked it in acetone overnight but nothing seemed to come out of it. I also soaked it in carb cleaner with the same results. does anyone know where a new one could be had? or a part #. thanks again.
 

racerone

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I have always cleaned them with laquer thinner.----When you set it an a flat surface with a gasket and pour fuel into it what happens ??
 

Crosbyman

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try 100 lbs air pressure to blow it after the lacquer thinner ...carefull on the eyes
 

todd281

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WOW.. now something else. The starting system on this motor was a 6 volt system, that the previous owner ran on 12. Needless to say the starter is shot it is a autolite model MAK 4033M . I ordered a new 12 volt starter and it arrived today. It was to be a replacement for a MDO 4002M starter that fit this motor. however it will not bolt to the starter bracket. So the question is ; did the starter bracket change when changed the system from 6 volts to 12? or did they use the same bracket and just change the starters? I don't know if I need to buy a different starter bracket , or send the new starter back and tell them it is not the right replacement for the MDO 4002M thanks
 

nwcove

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you positive its the starter that is shot? they were pretty rugged and have been used with 12v.
 

geoffwga1

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You can not just use the nipple to drive the pump !------That is a one way air supply to the pressure tank.----Fuel pump do not work off that.-----It involves modifications to use that nipple to drive a newer pump.
OK,it's jusy that I did it that way on my 5.5.As I said I'm not up on that model.
 

nwcove

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OK,it's jusy that I did it that way on my 5.5.As I said I'm not up on that model.

geoff, the 5.5 doesnt have removable bypass covers, so what you did was the only option, it you were to convert a 7.5 or bigger of the two line motors, its just much easier to go with the bypass cover option.
 

todd281

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Ok, now another problem , This motor was equipped with a 6 volt system . it had a autolite model MAK 4033M starter in it . the previous owner ran it on 12 volts , and cooked the starter. So I go online and find out that in 57ish Evinrude started putting a 12 volt system in . IT used a MDO 4002 M starter. I bought a starter that was a replacement for the MDO 4002 M and it arrived today. It is a slightly smaller starter than the 6 volt one, and will not bolt to the starter bracket. The question is, when Evinrude changed to the 12 volt system, did they change the bracket? I don't know if I need to buy a different bracket, or send this new starter back, and inform them that it is the wrong one. Has anybody done this change from 6 to 12 volts? thanks for all the help thus far. todd
 
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