Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

jeffnomme

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May 27, 2005
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I have a 1991 Alumacraft competitor CS with an outboard 1991 Suzuki DT85. Last season i had an overheating problem, and it turned out to be the thermostat as we have never changed it since we bought it brand new. This caused it to overheat and lose power. I changed the thermostat and replaced the water flow sensor, as well installed a new head gasket. It ran fine for the remaining season. Upon putting it in the water this year for the first time...the water alarm was constantly beeping and when i took it for a ride, it wouldnt go past 15 mph. There is little or no water spitting out the exhaust port, and the tell- tale hole is flowing fine. There is also water in the bottom cylinder. I also notice that there is some rusty water slightly coming from the ehaust cover bolts which tells me that could be the problem for the water in the cylinder(exhaust gasket needs replacing). But i am also curious as to why the water alarm is not shutting off and not circulating in the top end of the motor, while not allowing water to come out of the exhaust port.
 

jafa

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Mar 10, 2004
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

When was the last time the impellor was replaced ? The tell tale is T'd off before water gets into the head. Water wont exit the exhaust port till the themostat opens, sounds like it may be seized again.
 

jeffnomme

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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

I changed the impellor the year before last. If the thermostat is siezed again, it wont allow water in the powerhead? The water alarm doesnt shut off thus telling me there is no water in the top end. Is it possible for a new thermostat with no more than 10 hours to sieze?
 

jafa

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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

The thermostat is at the top of the head but if seized will not allow water to exit the upper exhaust port , usually after a couple of minutes. Water will only exit thrugh the hub untill it opens. Drop the LU and at least check the impellor is in one peice , not unheard of for it to break up and bits get stuck in the passageways. The thermostat also has a small air exit which could get blocked and stop water from completely filling the head.
 

jeffnomme

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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

Today my dad tried taking off the exhaust cover and had all the bolt heads break off as he tried to loosen them. What is the best way to get them out? Its possible we have to take the engine out as some of the bolts are unaccessable to drill out. I will drop the LU and check the impellor, as well as check the thermostat and test it over the stove in hot water. I am planning on buying a new impellor, exhaust cover gasket, thermostat, and a flush adaptor. If i dont need the impellor or thermostat, it will serve me use when i do my next service.
 

fridays

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Jan 26, 2003
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126
Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

check the intermediate exhaust plate for pin holes from corrosion..I've had that drive me nuts and it's usually on the lower end...water in bottom cyl. !!!
 

jafa

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Mar 10, 2004
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172
Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

Did the heads of the bolts snap off flush with the block or the cover ? Have you managed to get the cover off ?
 

jeffnomme

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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

They broke off in between the block and the cover. My dad says its possible to grip with pliers. Is there any suggestions as how to get them out with out the pain of drilling, or removing the engine? The cover is still on as he used a ratchet and didnt have any open end wrenches to access the lower bolts. He said the middle two bolts came out okay, but the others broke off, and still have 1 or 2 left till the plate can come off. we are planning to return to the lake on wednesday and use the open end wrench to try to get the rest out.
 

jeffnomme

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May 27, 2005
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

They broke off in between the block and the cover. My dad says its possible to grip with pliers. Is there any suggestions as how to get them out with out the pain of drilling, or removing the engine? The cover is still on as he used a ratchet and didnt have any open end wrenches to access the lower bolts. He said the middle two bolts came out okay, but the others broke off, and still have 1 or 2 left till the plate can come off. we are planning to return to the lake on wednesday and use the open end wrench to try to get the rest out.
 

mcfly99

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May 15, 2005
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

I would start with PB plaster. The other thing you can try is tapping (not pounding) them straight on with a hammer and hitting them with pb blaster.. The hitting gives a similar effect as an impact wrench would. You could also use heat, but I (personally) try the above first. I had other bolts froze on my OB that I was able to free doing the above, but it took several days (spray, tap…tap…spray, work back-n-forth leave overnight). <br /><br />If you get to the point where your going to try an easy-out, make sure you get a good quality set.. Same if you have to drill it out, get good quality carbide drills, start small and work your way up. Worse case scenario you can drill them out with carbide drill’s and use a helicoil.. Here is some info on helicoils as a reference. http://www.emhart.com/products/helicoil.html
 

jafa

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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

There are several good threads here about removing bolts. Do a search and you'll get all the information. If there is some stud left , uses a flame to heat them up and cool them down quickly to break the corrosion and lots of lubricating oil. If there is some stud left you could weld a nut on , the heat of the welding seems to break them free. Either way it looks like you'll have to pull the engine out.
 

jeffnomme

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May 27, 2005
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

Thanks guys, i am off to the lake and will return sunday. I am gonna try tapping them with a hammer and lubrication. If all else fails, i will try heating, and then maybe welding some nuts on them. If that doesnt work, then i guess i might have to start pulling the motor out and drill them out and use some heli coils. <br /><br />You have been really helpful!!!
 

jeffnomme

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May 27, 2005
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

Well, i was at the lake and soaked the bolts with lubricant and did all the tapping. I tried heating one of them and that failed. 6 of them did not come out and further broke flush with the block. We brought the boat to the city to work on it further. We used easy outs (more like NEVER OUTS) as we tried only 3 and all three broke off. Two broke off inside the block and one was able to work free. We are now going to drill them right out and tap them. Now i need advice on how to get the hardened peices of steel out of the inner bolt as it is impossible to drill out. Any intelligent suggestions???
 

mcfly99

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May 15, 2005
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Re: Water in Lower Cylinder & Water Alarm Beeping

If you try and drill it with a hard drill bit, there is a good chance the bit will catch on the broken easy-out and will also break off.. This happened to me on a small block chevy I was rebuilding.<br /><br />I ended up using a small pneumatic (pencil) die grinder with a carbide burr (double cut). I got the rotary burr’s from Travers (travers.com).. (Search on PN 20-003-001; shape D & E.) I went through half a dozen of them for two bots, I started out with the smaller and worked up.. and I used a lot of lubricant. I was able to bur a concave hole in the easy-out. I took a small (stubby) VERY SHARP drill and very VERY slowly drilled…(again lots of lubricant and lean into it hard) I was lucky to get the drill to catch on the easy-out which loosened it enough for me to get it out. On one of the others I was able to cut through with the carbide burr(s). This is not easy and it will take alot patience.<br /><br />Good luck, let me know how you make out…
 
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